VQ 30 and 35 4th and 5th gen Stainless Steel Clutch lines !!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,252
From: Buena Park, CA
hey guys, i'm back from ny, but i am behind on shipments. I sincerely apologize to those that have been waiting for over a week! This is not normally how I run business, but a combination with overselling and me being out of town put me behind. I am picking up my order today and will be shipping out all lines either with today's mail or tomorrow's mail.
Also this deal is still on!
Also this deal is still on!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,252
From: Buena Park, CA
The last batch of shipments went out a few days ago, hopefully everyone got theirs! Next batch going out today guys, thank you for the patience as I am now catching up on the orders!
Derrick did you receive my payment? Hopefully you can get it to me by Friday so I can iinstall it 
steven88@mindspring.com
steven88@mindspring.com
btw...I would like to know what fluids you guys are using? this is for a 2k2 6spd just for reference....
I am leaning towards the Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid....I have a big 1 liter bottle sitting at home...but the thing is...I opened it 1yr ago but it has been capped off since then...its still got ALOT of fluid left...anybody know if this is still useful or should I just buy new one?
If it isn't useful....then do you think its still useful that I pour this in and flush out all the old stock fluid using this 1yr old Valvoline syn? I heard that brake fluid is bad if it's not been sealed and capped off becuz of moisture....
I am leaning towards the Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid....I have a big 1 liter bottle sitting at home...but the thing is...I opened it 1yr ago but it has been capped off since then...its still got ALOT of fluid left...anybody know if this is still useful or should I just buy new one?
If it isn't useful....then do you think its still useful that I pour this in and flush out all the old stock fluid using this 1yr old Valvoline syn? I heard that brake fluid is bad if it's not been sealed and capped off becuz of moisture....
Can someone pm me a link to the write up for this, I can't find it, I found a right up in the stickies for replacing one of the lines, but I don't know if this is the right one and I can't hardly see the pics any way.
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/803
try that website....it only tells you how to bleed the clutch lines...not replace them.....but even a chimp can figure out how to replace the line....its right dead smack in yer face if u remove the intake snorkel
try that website....it only tells you how to bleed the clutch lines...not replace them.....but even a chimp can figure out how to replace the line....its right dead smack in yer face if u remove the intake snorkel
Hello everyone, I was one of the first people in on this deal (thanks, derrick!) and I installed my clutch line in November. I don't drive my Max nearly as much as most people and I actually put it away for 3.5 months this winter. About two weeks ago I finally brought it out for the season so I've driven with the new clutch line for about six weeks total.
Anyway, I just wanted to warn everyone, at least those with 4th gens, about a potential problem. This problem is NOT Technafit's or derrick's fault, it was totally my fault. When I installed the clutch line, I reused the stock flow-through bolt that attaches to the slave cylinder (which is right on top of the tranny). It looked like the bolt that Technafit supplied (which has a larger head) would be much harder to tighten due to the ridiculously tight space you have to work in for that bolt. So I figured the OEM bolt would work fine. And it appeared to work fine for six weeks of driving.
Today while driving my clutch went out without warning. All that happened was fluid suddenly started leaking out of the aforementioned bolt so I lost my clutch. My clutch pedal hit the floor and stayed there as I was trying to accelerate from a stop. There was no way to get the car in gear with the engine running unless I wanted to risk damaging my tranny and jam it into gear without clutch (which I wasn't about to do). I was able to push the car to a parking spot and do what I should have done in November—USE THE BOLT THAT TECHNAFIT SUPPLIES!
The OEM bolt has a 12mm head and is much longer than the Technifit bolt, which has a 9/16" head and is threaded all the way to the bottom, unlike OEM. Once you get the right angle, it's actually quite easy to get a crescent wrench in to tighten the new bolt, but you have to use the open end, not the box end. Be sure to use the copper crush washers and torque the bolt down to 14 ft-lbs, that's spec. (It's not really very tight.) When I originally tightened down the OEM bolt I had to get it really tight because it would leak otherwise. This is because the banjo connection on the stainless line is thinner/shorter than the banjo connection on the rubber line. Thus, if you try to use the OEM bolt with the SS line, the bolt won't tighen far enough because I think it's hitting the bottom of its socket in the slave cylinder.
Just a few hours later my car is back up and driveable. Thanks to Broaner for helping me out tonight.
Anyway, I just wanted to warn everyone, at least those with 4th gens, about a potential problem. This problem is NOT Technafit's or derrick's fault, it was totally my fault. When I installed the clutch line, I reused the stock flow-through bolt that attaches to the slave cylinder (which is right on top of the tranny). It looked like the bolt that Technafit supplied (which has a larger head) would be much harder to tighten due to the ridiculously tight space you have to work in for that bolt. So I figured the OEM bolt would work fine. And it appeared to work fine for six weeks of driving.
Today while driving my clutch went out without warning. All that happened was fluid suddenly started leaking out of the aforementioned bolt so I lost my clutch. My clutch pedal hit the floor and stayed there as I was trying to accelerate from a stop. There was no way to get the car in gear with the engine running unless I wanted to risk damaging my tranny and jam it into gear without clutch (which I wasn't about to do). I was able to push the car to a parking spot and do what I should have done in November—USE THE BOLT THAT TECHNAFIT SUPPLIES!
The OEM bolt has a 12mm head and is much longer than the Technifit bolt, which has a 9/16" head and is threaded all the way to the bottom, unlike OEM. Once you get the right angle, it's actually quite easy to get a crescent wrench in to tighten the new bolt, but you have to use the open end, not the box end. Be sure to use the copper crush washers and torque the bolt down to 14 ft-lbs, that's spec. (It's not really very tight.) When I originally tightened down the OEM bolt I had to get it really tight because it would leak otherwise. This is because the banjo connection on the stainless line is thinner/shorter than the banjo connection on the rubber line. Thus, if you try to use the OEM bolt with the SS line, the bolt won't tighen far enough because I think it's hitting the bottom of its socket in the slave cylinder.
Just a few hours later my car is back up and driveable. Thanks to Broaner for helping me out tonight.
I'll be PayPaling you on Wed. Derrick. This is a great deal and my brother, Jar, bought one from ya and is happy soooooo. 
One note to that guy talking about Syn fluid in the clutch line. With this SS line it's probably alright but with the rubbers..HELL no. That's why Im replacing the line with the SS now cuz the Silicone has started eating the rubber and it leaks a tad where the crimped on connectors are. One note about Syn (DOT5) fluid, as I understand it, does not generate nearly as much compression as 3/4 fluids. The clutch pedal will feel nowhere NEAR as stiff as it does with the 3/4 fluids. If you gotta have Syn...IMHO, stick with 5.1 (at least it's not silicone based).
One note to that guy talking about Syn fluid in the clutch line. With this SS line it's probably alright but with the rubbers..HELL no. That's why Im replacing the line with the SS now cuz the Silicone has started eating the rubber and it leaks a tad where the crimped on connectors are. One note about Syn (DOT5) fluid, as I understand it, does not generate nearly as much compression as 3/4 fluids. The clutch pedal will feel nowhere NEAR as stiff as it does with the 3/4 fluids. If you gotta have Syn...IMHO, stick with 5.1 (at least it's not silicone based).
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,252
From: Buena Park, CA
cyu1 your kit is going out within 1 day i'll priority mail it to you since it seems like you need it real bad (i imed you back but you were gone that day)
japmax please chill out. i sent your line out after i received your payment (and i also had the automated label printing program email you your tracking #) and despite my repeated attempts to contact you your email system blocked each and every one of my messages as well as the message with tracking #. Check your email system's "spam" settings, because it was not letting my mail through.
japmax please chill out. i sent your line out after i received your payment (and i also had the automated label printing program email you your tracking #) and despite my repeated attempts to contact you your email system blocked each and every one of my messages as well as the message with tracking #. Check your email system's "spam" settings, because it was not letting my mail through.
I'm not mad, in fact I'm a very patient person I just didn't hear from you at all you should have Pm'd me on the ORG. I know your verey reputable, I was just a little worried, no biggie. I do have it and it's exactly what I hoped for so Thanks...
Originally Posted by cyu1
got it installed. dude, it feels great. engagement is much crispier than before. loving it. this is surely a good deal derrick. keep up the good work
