New Energy Suspension Bushings Intro Sale
Actually thats the reason I am looking into getting these mounts. I've been using the act/fidanza combo for the last 80k mi. The shudder is avoidable, but I miss smooth stock engagement after driving my friends stock 5-speed maxima. The act clutch may cause shudder, but will almost never be needed to be replaced.
Does anyone know if these mounts will decrease shudder associated with an ACT clutch?
Does anyone know if these mounts will decrease shudder associated with an ACT clutch?
divisions...I have the exact setup (act/fidanza), but for only 2,000 miles. The shudder on engagement isn't as bad as it was during break-in (it's actually a lot better) but it is still there. Hopefully this will work. Anyone know from personal experience if they will help?
Chris
Chris
just got off the phone with Brian and Lori.....ordered the ES motor mount inserts....great customer service and very nice people.....ordering was a breeze with Cattman Performance....i wouldn't hesitate to do business with them again....
Originally Posted by 98MistSE
divisions...I have the exact setup (act/fidanza), but for only 2,000 miles. The shudder on engagement isn't as bad as it was during break-in (it's actually a lot better) but it is still there. Hopefully this will work. Anyone know from personal experience if they will help?
Chris
Chris
anyway i'm not totally sure....correct me if i am wrong....
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,129
From: San Fernando Valley CALI
Originally Posted by steven88
I use to have a 4th gen with the ACT/stock flywheel.....and my chatter was pretty darn minimal.....if I didnt want any chatter at all I just launch at a higher RPM....engages smooth as butter......but as with the ES mounts helping....in my opinion I think the ES mounts coupled with act/fidanza will increase vibrations.....and I say this is becuz........act = aftermarket stiff clutch......ES mounts = aftermarket stiff inserts........ACT+ES = much stiffer than stock......
anyway i'm not totally sure....correct me if i am wrong....
anyway i'm not totally sure....correct me if i am wrong....
With an ACT clutch, the chatter is caused by the engine and tranny vibrating as a unit, right? I figure that if the mounts are stiffer it will limit the vibration.
External causes of clutch chatter include loose or broken engine or transmission mounts, misalignment of the chassis and drivetrain components, worn or damaged U-joints or CV joints, a loose transmission crossmember, a worn or bent release fork, or loose rear left spring bushings or spring U-bolt nuts.
taken from http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/bf40459.htm
WHAT COULD BE THE CAUSES FOR CLUTCH CHATTER?
CHATTER PROBLEMS CAN BE CAUSED BY MANY PROBLEMS. POSSIBLE CAUSES MAY BE AS FOLLOWS:
FLYWHEEL HAS EXCESSIVE RUN-OUT.
FLY WHEEL WAS NOT RESURFACED BEFORE THE NEW CLUTCH WAS INSTALLED.
FLYWHEEL WAS RESURFACED IMPROPERLY OR HAS IMPROPER SURFACE FINISH.
FLYWHEEL HAS SEVERE HARD SPOTS OR HOT SPOTS.
FLYWHEEL RESURFACED IMPROPERLY (I.E. INCORRECT FLYWHEEL STEP).
DAMAGED OR EXCESSIVELY WORN CV JOINTS.
BAD U-JOINTS IN DRIVE SHAFT OR U-JOINTS MISALIGNED.
EXCESSIVE BACKLASH IN DIFFERENTIAL.
EXCESSIVE DRIVE-LINE ANGLE.
BAD LEAF SPRINGS, BUSHINGS OR MOUNTS.
IMPROPER GEAR RATIO VERSUS TIRE DIAMETER.
DEFECTIVE PRESSURE PLATE AND/OR DISC.
DISC HAS INADEQUATE OR NO MARCEL (NOT ENOUGH CUSHION BETWEEN THE FRICTION FACINGS).
OIL OR GREASE CONTAMINATION ON CLUTCH FACINGS.
WORN OR DAMAGED CLUTCH LINKAGE.
BENT COVER ASSEMBLY AND/OR DISC .
IMPROPERLY TUNED ENGINE.
WORN OR DAMAGED ENGINE MOUNTS OR TRANSMISSION MOUNTS.
taken from http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchwarranty.htm
External causes of clutch chatter include loose or broken engine or transmission mounts, misalignment of the chassis and drivetrain components, worn or damaged U-joints or CV joints, a loose transmission crossmember, a worn or bent release fork, or loose rear left spring bushings or spring U-bolt nuts.
taken from http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/bf40459.htm
WHAT COULD BE THE CAUSES FOR CLUTCH CHATTER?
CHATTER PROBLEMS CAN BE CAUSED BY MANY PROBLEMS. POSSIBLE CAUSES MAY BE AS FOLLOWS:
FLYWHEEL HAS EXCESSIVE RUN-OUT.
FLY WHEEL WAS NOT RESURFACED BEFORE THE NEW CLUTCH WAS INSTALLED.
FLYWHEEL WAS RESURFACED IMPROPERLY OR HAS IMPROPER SURFACE FINISH.
FLYWHEEL HAS SEVERE HARD SPOTS OR HOT SPOTS.
FLYWHEEL RESURFACED IMPROPERLY (I.E. INCORRECT FLYWHEEL STEP).
DAMAGED OR EXCESSIVELY WORN CV JOINTS.
BAD U-JOINTS IN DRIVE SHAFT OR U-JOINTS MISALIGNED.
EXCESSIVE BACKLASH IN DIFFERENTIAL.
EXCESSIVE DRIVE-LINE ANGLE.
BAD LEAF SPRINGS, BUSHINGS OR MOUNTS.
IMPROPER GEAR RATIO VERSUS TIRE DIAMETER.
DEFECTIVE PRESSURE PLATE AND/OR DISC.
DISC HAS INADEQUATE OR NO MARCEL (NOT ENOUGH CUSHION BETWEEN THE FRICTION FACINGS).
OIL OR GREASE CONTAMINATION ON CLUTCH FACINGS.
WORN OR DAMAGED CLUTCH LINKAGE.
BENT COVER ASSEMBLY AND/OR DISC .
IMPROPERLY TUNED ENGINE.
WORN OR DAMAGED ENGINE MOUNTS OR TRANSMISSION MOUNTS.
taken from http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchwarranty.htm
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,129
From: San Fernando Valley CALI
Originally Posted by divisions
With an ACT clutch, the chatter is caused by the engine and tranny vibrating as a unit, right? I figure that if the mounts are stiffer it will limit the vibration.
External causes of clutch chatter include loose or broken engine or transmission mounts, misalignment of the chassis and drivetrain components, worn or damaged U-joints or CV joints, a loose transmission crossmember, a worn or bent release fork, or loose rear left spring bushings or spring U-bolt nuts.
External causes of clutch chatter include loose or broken engine or transmission mounts, misalignment of the chassis and drivetrain components, worn or damaged U-joints or CV joints, a loose transmission crossmember, a worn or bent release fork, or loose rear left spring bushings or spring U-bolt nuts.
I am interested in all parts that deal with a 2000--
+ ES1114 Motor mount inserts 1995-03 Maxima - $79.95 (MSRP $120)
+ ES3118 Front control arm set 2000-03 Maxima - $49.95 (MSRP $75)
+ ES7108 Rear trailing arm set 2000-03 Maxima - $64.95 (MSRP $95)
---
Ordered!
+ ES1114 Motor mount inserts 1995-03 Maxima - $79.95 (MSRP $120)
+ ES3118 Front control arm set 2000-03 Maxima - $49.95 (MSRP $75)
+ ES7108 Rear trailing arm set 2000-03 Maxima - $64.95 (MSRP $95)
---
Ordered!
I just noticed now that the 6spd bushings are only 18 bucks....what are the benefits of these bushings? sorry for asking such a noob-ish question....
i just might order these if the improvement is noticeable...since they are so cheap.....also any word on a STS for the 6spd? I would like to swap in the STS and bushings at the same time for a BIG improvement over stock.....flushing my MT-90 with new one would be awesome too
i just might order these if the improvement is noticeable...since they are so cheap.....also any word on a STS for the 6spd? I would like to swap in the STS and bushings at the same time for a BIG improvement over stock.....flushing my MT-90 with new one would be awesome too
Originally Posted by Cattman
A very good question, it should have come up already but hadn't, so I called the engineer at ES who was in charge of the project. He didn't know either, because apparently they make a general assumption that the mounts will be primarily used with manual transmissions.
Based on what I know about the Place Racing Maxima mounts we helped develop (they have manual and automatic versions), I'd say they should, because the difference in the mounts we've sold is the frame of the mount, not in the bushing that goes in it.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Based on what I know about the Place Racing Maxima mounts we helped develop (they have manual and automatic versions), I'd say they should, because the difference in the mounts we've sold is the frame of the mount, not in the bushing that goes in it.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Thanks
Jay
Woohoo!! I can finally recommend some toys for the 5th gen guys now that the ES bushings are available! I've been modding the 4th gen control arm bushings to fit for a long time and that was getting old.
The Z33 rear bushings are indeed liquid filled. I had one leaking on a customer's car and I pulled it off, cleaned it up, and filled them both with urethane. HUGE improvement in the rear end handling on the car. he was very happy. I'm sure the ES bushings will be better as well due to the installation ease of them compared to the ones I made.
Brian, I'd like to chat with you about these as well and will reply to your email as soon as I get some parts shipped out.
The Z33 rear bushings are indeed liquid filled. I had one leaking on a customer's car and I pulled it off, cleaned it up, and filled them both with urethane. HUGE improvement in the rear end handling on the car. he was very happy. I'm sure the ES bushings will be better as well due to the installation ease of them compared to the ones I made.
Brian, I'd like to chat with you about these as well and will reply to your email as soon as I get some parts shipped out.
Brian,
I would like to order all the bushings sets for 2K2 maxima:
+ ES1114 Motor mount inserts 1995-03 Maxima - $79.95 (MSRP $120)
+ ES1115 Shifter (6-speed) bushing set 2002-2003 - $18.95 (MSRP $29)
+ ES3118 Front control arm set 2000-03 Maxima - $49.95 (MSRP $75)
+ ES7108 Rear trailing arm set 2000-03 Maxima - $64.95 (MSRP $95)
That comes to total = $ 213.80
How much would the shipping be to 19044?
I'd like to pay with paypal.
Thanks,
TonyB
I would like to order all the bushings sets for 2K2 maxima:
+ ES1114 Motor mount inserts 1995-03 Maxima - $79.95 (MSRP $120)
+ ES1115 Shifter (6-speed) bushing set 2002-2003 - $18.95 (MSRP $29)
+ ES3118 Front control arm set 2000-03 Maxima - $49.95 (MSRP $75)
+ ES7108 Rear trailing arm set 2000-03 Maxima - $64.95 (MSRP $95)
That comes to total = $ 213.80
How much would the shipping be to 19044?
I'd like to pay with paypal.
Thanks,
TonyB
Brian, or Matt, I was just reading the installation instructions for the lower tie bar, and i wanted to take the advice and get the ES Poly. bushings...but im not sure which i sould get? the front and rear arms and thats it? or is there more i need to get?
also, i dont know if it matters, but i also have a progress rear sway that would be in this, if that means i should get more or different things. thanks guys.
also, i dont know if it matters, but i also have a progress rear sway that would be in this, if that means i should get more or different things. thanks guys.
Originally Posted by Ghase
Thanks for answering Brian. So basically, the only diferent's between manual and automatic is the frame of the mounts. That cool, I really hate taking chance's when it come to my max, that's why I always make sure. So do you think I should go for it??? I kinda really need it.
Thanks
Jay
Thanks
Jay
You'll have to decide if its something you want, you'll be a bit of a pioneer to put it on your auto - all I can say is that I'd be quite surprised if it didn't work and I think you'll be pleased with the results if it does. Its assumed that most of the value of the mounts is in hard launches, and sure it helps with that, but I've found that stabilizing the engine mass affects the behavior of the car in a variety of ways, under a variety of circumstances.
I'll mention that the variable you can control on the mounts, which could come into play, is that the pin in the center protrudes on one side and is fairly flush on the other, so it should be pressed into the mount in the direction that best replicates the position of the pin on the stock mount. The pins are centered in the ES bushings, rather than raised above the center point as in stock, but this is appropriate (since they're denser material, they don't sag like the stock ones do), I'm talking about how far the pin protrudes from the face of the mount.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by KCMC582
Brian, or Matt, I was just reading the installation instructions for the lower tie bar, and i wanted to take the advice and get the ES Poly. bushings...but im not sure which i sould get? the front and rear arms and thats it? or is there more i need to get?
also, i dont know if it matters, but i also have a progress rear sway that would be in this, if that means i should get more or different things. thanks guys.
also, i dont know if it matters, but i also have a progress rear sway that would be in this, if that means i should get more or different things. thanks guys.
The only actual suspension bushings being released for the 2000-2003 right now are the front control arm and rear trailing arm bushings, so those are what you'd want to start with. Your Progress bar won't conflict with the bushings in any way - they complement each other.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
thanks brian. i assume that those are what matt is referring to (unless he meant the 4th gen with that notation).
oh, brian, on a side note...when will you guys be getting more front strut tower bars in stock?
oh, brian, on a side note...when will you guys be getting more front strut tower bars in stock?
Up until I read this post, NO bushings for the 5th gen were available, and only the front control arm bushings for the 4th gen were listed.. now there are front and rears for both cars- that's a VERY good thing!
And I highly suggest replacing them while you have the stuff apart. it will make the benefits of my LTB much more noticeable and you'll be very happy. you also don't have to go through the hassles of preloading the suspension before torquing down the bolts, since the ES bushings are multiple pieces that pivot anyway. (the factory ones are 1-piece molded and must be preloaded before torquing down the suspension)
And I highly suggest replacing them while you have the stuff apart. it will make the benefits of my LTB much more noticeable and you'll be very happy. you also don't have to go through the hassles of preloading the suspension before torquing down the bolts, since the ES bushings are multiple pieces that pivot anyway. (the factory ones are 1-piece molded and must be preloaded before torquing down the suspension)
Originally Posted by Cattman
I'll mention that the variable you can control on the mounts, which could come into play, is that the pin in the center protrudes on one side and is fairly flush on the other, so it should be pressed into the mount in the direction that best replicates the position of the pin on the stock mount. The pins are centered in the ES bushings, rather than raised above the center point as in stock, but this is appropriate (since they're denser material, they don't sag like the stock ones do), I'm talking about how far the pin protrudes from the face of the mount.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
PS Whatz the status on the headers. How much, plus shipping to 11434.
I DEFFINATELY wanna get in on this, because I have a bad rear engine mount. Can you give me an idea on when you'd ship + ES1114 Motor mount inserts 1995-03 Maxima - $79.95 (MSRP $120)
AND, will this fix a broken mount, or not so much?(Need to check under the car and see just how bad the mount is) THANKS!!
AND, will this fix a broken mount, or not so much?(Need to check under the car and see just how bad the mount is) THANKS!!
Originally Posted by smokeydriver
I DEFFINATELY wanna get in on this, because I have a bad rear engine mount. Can you give me an idea on when you'd ship + ES1114 Motor mount inserts 1995-03 Maxima - $79.95 (MSRP $120)
AND, will this fix a broken mount, or not so much?(Need to check under the car and see just how bad the mount is) THANKS!!
AND, will this fix a broken mount, or not so much?(Need to check under the car and see just how bad the mount is) THANKS!!
As for a broken mount... so long as the metal brackets aren't broken, it'll fix it because the broken part is likely the rubber/oil-filled part inside the metal mount, and this insert completely replaces that unit. You need to take it to a shop where they can remove the mount, and use a hydraulic press to press out the old rubber mount, then press this one in.
any and all pics of any Energy Suspension products will be posted here. so far i have shifter, motor, and subframe pictures. i am going to go install the subframes now, so i'll have pics of the old ones plus the installed ones fairly soon.
pictures available at http://polo.lxanyc.com/2002MaximaSE/EnergySuspension/
pictures available at http://polo.lxanyc.com/2002MaximaSE/EnergySuspension/
Originally Posted by bsetiawan
Marco, how did you gut out the old motor mount ? What kind of tools did you use ?
Wow .... this is a really clean job he did http://polo.lxanyc.com/2002MaximaSE/...uttedOut02.JPG . Thanks for the reply.
Subframe bushings installed....very easy job. notice my time stamp. car jacked up at 1:23....i'm at my computer at 1:45.
http://polo.lxanyc.com/2002MaximaSE/...frameBushings/
http://polo.lxanyc.com/2002MaximaSE/...frameBushings/
So the best way to do this is... hold up the engine with a cherry picker and leave it attached to the side engine mount. Then remove the crossmember with the front and back engine mounts. Then remove the engine mounts and take them to a shop with a press. Correct?
Originally Posted by bgates1654
So the best way to do this is... hold up the engine with a cherry picker and leave it attached to the side engine mount. Then remove the crossmember with the front and back engine mounts. Then remove the engine mounts and take them to a shop with a press. Correct?
Originally Posted by MaxedOutR34
Any pics of these motor mounts?. Are these inserts for the factory mounts or a full replacements of the mounts?
Originally Posted by Cattman
I've recently found another source that lists these suspension and steering bushing applications for 95-99 Maximas:
Front alignment set
Front control arms
Front swaybar frame mount
Front swaybar links
Rear swaybar links
Rear swaybar mount
Rear control arms
Rear trailing arms
I'm a little puzzled by the rear swaybar link and mount bushings, given the beam axle - these are out of Australia but their 95+ Maximas have beam axles too. They may be referring to the bar that passes through the beam axle, which does function sort of like a swaybar - can anyone shed any light on this?
Anyway, most of these bushings seem to be unique to this company, so I'm in the process of arranging an evaluation of the bushings, springs and struts they make for the Maxima. I will post an intro sale for these bushings as soon as I get the prices pinned down with the supplier and make sure I know which bits go where on the car.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Front alignment set
Front control arms
Front swaybar frame mount
Front swaybar links
Rear swaybar links
Rear swaybar mount
Rear control arms
Rear trailing arms
I'm a little puzzled by the rear swaybar link and mount bushings, given the beam axle - these are out of Australia but their 95+ Maximas have beam axles too. They may be referring to the bar that passes through the beam axle, which does function sort of like a swaybar - can anyone shed any light on this?
Anyway, most of these bushings seem to be unique to this company, so I'm in the process of arranging an evaluation of the bushings, springs and struts they make for the Maxima. I will post an intro sale for these bushings as soon as I get the prices pinned down with the supplier and make sure I know which bits go where on the car.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
I just ordered the LCA and FSB bushings for my 95. Thanks for this great deal. Let me know when you get them to ship. Thanks again. I'd also be extremely interested in the bushings VQuick mentioned. It seems that ES carries a wide variety of stuff for every Nissan but the Maxima. More is better. Keep up the good work!



