There was TONS of lube leftover from the FSB bushings...I really don't think you need that much for most of the bushings.

 

Yeah there was plenty for the FSB's but the LCA's have a lot of surfaces to coat.

 

you madison guys and your lube. drew-chill out, im sure that you can use some of tom's

 

But Tom will run out when we do his LCA's. I guess I have to admit I just apply the lube way more liberally. Ha...

 

that just means that youre compassionate.

other than that.....no comment.

 

I have the rear trailing arm bushings for my 2000 Maxima almost in my car. So far, I have completely dropped the rear axle assembly from the car and totally gutted out the OEM bushing from the trailing arm. My next step is to actually press in the ES rear trailing arm bushing into the arm. Total work time so far has been about 10 hours spread over 4 days and counting. What makes this project difficult is that you can't really use a traditional hydraulic press to remove and install the bushings due to the nature of the rear axle assembly being extremely balky. As for letting a shop to install this bushing, I would assume it will be somewhat costly due to the amount of time required to drop/reinstall the entire rear axle and the removal/installation of the ES bushings manually without a hydraulic press. Therefore, I would recommend this as a DIY project. On the bright side, you'll be surprised that this DIY project has so far been done with basic machanic tools. That's all I can say for now until I am done with this project. I do have pictures taken so far with all the steps completed with more to come later.


steve...

 

what about torque....i'm sure the bolts you took off have to be torqued to spec, right?

 

I'm guessing that you are talking about the bolts removed to drop the axle right? There is minimum of 5 bolts required to drop the entire rear axle. For me I went a little bit beyond the minimum and also removed the rear strut assembly for a total of 9 bolts/nuts to drop the rear axle. Here are the 9 bolts/nuts I removed and the required torque to put them back according the Nissan FSM:

2 Rear Trailing Arm Bolts: (73-86 ft-lb)

1 Lateral Link Bolt (This bolt is middle bolt that attaches the axle directly under the trunk area): (73-86 ft-lb)

2 Lower Rear Strut Bolts: (80-94 ft-lb)

4 Upper Rear Strut Nuts: (18-25 ft-lb)

Thus the torque required isn't all that high when compared to the amount required to just install aftermarket struts at 94 ft-lb maximum.

BTW Polo- If I'm not correct, don't you already have the ES rear trailling arm bushings installled already? I thought your car was the beta tester for all the ES bushings.

steve...

 

i've had these things sitting here for awhile, talked to the rep over at ES when he sent them to me, told him there HAD to be an easier way to do this. he says NOPE, gotta drop the whole thing.

ah, it's too cold to do this anyway....i don't think a shop would charg us much for this..i mean think about it...with a car on a lift, and air tools, how longs it's take to take out the axle...like that, it would take like 20 minutes, heat out the old ones, press in the new ones. sounds like a simple job at a shop.

edit: i was not the tester. i was the one who coordinated and did most of the research for ES. danny aka chinkzilla was the tester. i was sent stuff as they were created. he sent me the last of what i needed, which was control and trailing arm bushings. FSB bushings i did last weekend, and shifter, motor, and subframe were done MONTHS ago.

i'm just really too lazy to do this. let's see how it turns out.

 

How do you plan to press the bushings into the rear trailing arm? I know what you mean about pressing them in using a hydraulic press
being difficult. So I am wondering what tool or by what means will you be pressing them in? Did you hammer the old bushings out? Thanks for the info.

 

I don't I know what the rear is like but I used just a simple wood clamp to pull in the LCA bushings. If that isn't enough you could get a long bolt and put washers on each side. Tighten the nut down till its tight.

What the deal with these for 4th gens? Was this discussed already?

 

I plan to use a heavy duty 8" C-clamp, some flat steel plates, and a press drift to push in the bushings. If that doesn't work, I will devise another method using a hydraulic bottle jack to somehow press in the bushings.

As for pressing out the old bushing here is a quick synopses:

I used a powerdrill to perforate the outer perimeter of the rubber bushing (note: the trailing arm bushing is liquid filled so place a oil catch pan underneath). Next I used a knife to cut around the perforated section. Then I used a 6" C-clamp to help press out the center section of the bushing. Next I used a metal hacksaw to cut a notch in the aluminum ring that is holding the rest of the bushing material in the trailing arm. Remove the notch by using a chisel. Now the tension holding the metal bushing ring in the trailing arm is relieved and you could use the chisel to slowly push out the entire bushing. Now you need to use a torch to burn off the rubber residue that is left on the trailing arm. Buff out the ashes that is left with some fine steelwool. I have pictures of all these steps if you wish to view them.


steve...

 

This afternoon, I finally completed pressing in the ES rear trailing arm bushings. The method I used was with the 8" C-clamp and drifts. In order to press in the bushings easier, I needed to expand the opening of the trailing arm void at one end a tiny bit. After pressing in the bushings, I went back and reduced the opening back to its original size. The rear axle is now back underneath my car, but I still need to reattach all the brake lines, abs lines, and rear struts. Again, I did take pictures off all my steps if anyone wants to see. All in all, this DIY project was tedious, but very possible for anyone with basic tools and no hydraulic press.


steve...

 

great job steve. definitely sounds like a time consuming job. even looking over these instructions, and it does look complicated in the sense that anyone can get nervous removing so many pieces. and you are the first, so you get the props.
i'll be doing this in 2 weeks. if it dont'work, well at least i can borrow mom's CR-V.

if you want to create the write-up and send it over, i can add it to my site (with you getting all the credit of course)...i already did a write up on the FSB bushings, which are 1000x's easier than the TA bushings.

the FSB instructions are here -
http://polo.lxanyc.com/2002MaximaSE/.../FrontSwayBar/

 

Thanks Polo. Yeah, it was time consuming but well worth it in the long run. As for the writeup, give me some time. I need to reduce the size of some of the pictures and organize them. My next project is to install the front control arm and front lower subframe sets.

steve...

 

Did you finish the whole project? How does it feel/drive? What are drifts and when you expanded the opening of the TA void how did you go about expanding and reducing it...with heat? I would like to see some pics. Thanks.

 

I did finished the whole project this past Friday. As for the drive, the back end feels like I installed a stiffer spring set. Currently my suspension setup is as follows:
1. Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
2. Illumina struts set a 5 front/ 5 rear
3. Ebay FSTB
4. Stillen RSB
5. Stillen RSTB

Thus, I do feel a major difference with the RTA bushings. The rear end tracks well with little understeer around turns.

The drifts I used were 3" diameter metal pipes. To expand the TA void, I used a weed torch for heat and a channel wrench to help expand. To close up the void, I used a hammer with chisel once the bushing is in. For pictures, please give me some time. Apparently, the digital camera I borrowed from my brother was set to high res, so I need to reduce the size.

steve...

 

guys is this deal still alive?

 

i'm pretty sure it still is. cattman has superior expertise and services. go ahead and make your order. you might want to refer back to page one on the group deal info. call that number in that post and order directly on the phone.

 

Brian,
I would like to get in on this deal if its still going. Please send me payment info. I will also PM you. Thanks.

-Carson

 

I would like to buy the bushings for my 95 if this gd is still on.

 

Polo,

Please check your PM. Thanks.

steve...

 

I have a brand new set of 4th gen bushing for the front lower arm, never installed 30$ + shipping.

 

Hey Polo-

Out of curiosity, the ES5118 Front sway bar frame set 1995-1999 Maxima - $8.95 (MSRP $12), that Cattman sells do fit the 5th gen maxima? On your website, it looked like you put them on a 5th gen. Thanks.


steve...

 

What happened to the Orger with a 4th gen who was going to attempt to install the 5th gen rear trailing arm bushings on his car? I lost that thread.

 

Do you have any pics of the tools that you used to press in&out the rear t/a bushings?

 

i've received the how to on the TA bushings. should be displaying them momentarily. it will answer all your questions.

Omega, the 4th gen FSB bushings and 5th gen FSB bushings are different part number. they are not interchangeable. different design. that should answer your question.

 

Ok guys, I finally finished the how-to writeup for the ES Rear Trailing Arm bushings. You may find it at Polo's site:

http://polo.lxanyc.com/2002MaximaSE/...ngArmBushings/

Hopefully it should be detailed enough. My suggestion is to read the entire how-to first before endeavoring in installing the bushings. I would also like to thank Polo for hosting the instruction for us.


steve...

 

I am still looking for any successful Front control arm bushing install stories on a 5.5 gen. I would greatly appreciate any detailed how-to install instuctions. If it's going to include a torch, a hammer, and a bushing press then I am looking to sell them. I hate having these bushings just sitting the box. I would be very happy to sell the Front Control Arm Bushing set and front lower subframe bushing set. I paid $93 shipped....any decent offer will be accepted. Thanks.

 

you can see my thread here: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=387161

but you're going to need a torch, hammer and press...

 

I'll ask again...
Cattman- Are there any plans to make shifter and rear beam bushings for the 4th gen? I already have all bushings except for the subframe bushings, and was wondering where the subframe bushings are located, and what parts of the car they strengthen?

What's the deal with the Australian company who makes parts for our cars? Are you gonna be testing or bringing any of their products here?

 

I spoke with DaveB (parts guy) yesterday and he and MattB confirmed the A33 trailing arm bushings are a different size than the A32.

I second the question from 95maxrider - whats the status on ES producing these or us getting from Aussieland instead?

 

brian would not know any of those answer. i introduced all these bushings to brian, so in a sense, i would be a better asset. i will ask my rep tomorrow. as far as i know, there is no plan, unless a demand is met. i can certainly bring it up for him. hell, if you provided an OEM part, that would speed the process up by a lot.

 

We appreciate what you've done with Nate and Brian bringing these to market. I think the question is will they offer additional 4th gen products? Otherwise we need to push Cattman to sign an agreement with Pedder for these.

 

So is this GD over now? If not how much for the entire set for a 95?

 

I believe Brian is still honoring the group deal prices - why don't you call and find out how much?

 

I just ordered the motor mount inserts yesterday for the group deal price....just call them

 

I would really like to get some more info on the 4th gen parts and the Aussie parts as well. I wouldn't really be able to supply the OEM part myself, but they probably aren't too expensive.

 

I'm sorry for not being attentive to this thread as I should be. As PoLo subsequently notes, he has good access to the R&D department at Energy Suspension - my contacts are in sales, and it doesn't seem as if the two functions are that well acquainted with each other - so he's the better source for finding out what's under development (or encouraging the development of something).

The Pedders (australian) bushings I listed earlier in this thread for the 4th gen are all available, but I am hesitant to order them because they have a significantly higher price structure than the ES bushings. That's less of an issue with the bushing sets they make that are unique, but if both companies make the same bushing (like front control arm bushings for the 95-99) the Pedders price is much higher. They use noticeably different urethane formulations, and of course the engineers at Pedders are quite sure theirs are superior, but its not something I can comment knowledgeably about one way or the other.

Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance

 

Will this replace the control arm bushings? I need to replace them if this will do the job at the same time then i might as well get it from you guys the whole thing. But i want the back bushings done as well.....