What have you ran with the turbo?

 

hey my bad i forgot the reason why you posted this thread
you can keep the auto is just a little more expensive.

auto tranny control unit $470
VB upgrade $350 ish
stall converter $not sure i dont have one

on top of the bolt on sh*t maybe a little spray (its not my thing) you would be good to go

 

i only went to the 1/4 once 13.8@101 r/t .7** that was a while ago @ 6psi full interior 3/4 tank of gas. im retuned and running 8psi on bigger injectors and i got a new set of 17's with some azenis sports for the front. i will have pics of my 180sx s13 project car soon

 

I never was talking to you at all, with the exception of correcting your stupid remarks. This thread was about a kid that wanted to know what mods would be acceptable for his auto. Everybody gave him good advise until you came along and filled this thread with a load of **** by saying that bolt ons don't give you enough power to beat hondas and that only f@ggots race sohcs, and other nonsense. I only responded to your moronic remarks hoping that I would enlighten you, but that seems to be an impossible task.

Oh and FYI I am at amlost 6000 ft! Come up here and run the 1/4 mile! You would not even break 14s! Pretty pathetic for a turbo! Slow poke!

 

your the one that didnt know what motor he had. first its just a si with some bolt ons then it was a gsr, now its a type r. if you really beat a type r hatch in you auto i give you props. thats if you really won. and about my 1/4 times i was replying to I30TMikeD so *shhhh* your a slug.

 

Ohhhh nooooo..... pawnstar does not believe me...... what will I do????

Better give me props because I beat him

I even ran the 1/4 faster than him at the track several times!!!! I don't know why you Honda's are the fastest **** on the planet?



And FYI the only reason I didn't say that it was a type r was because your supposedly the one who has his **** right and I don't....right?

Me mentioning the fact that it has 190hp should have been an indicator don't ya think!?! Once I saw that you were obviously lost in your own web of bullsh!t by thinking that was 178hp and I didn't have my **** straight, I told you the revisions that honda made to the gsr engine. I don't even know where you got 178hp from anyway IT IS 170HP OK!!!

 

ha ha thats funny as sh*t

but anyway obviously we arent gonna stop bumpin heads and this is gonna be a 18page thread so just drop it, belive what ever you want to belive. shhhhhhhsh

 

oh yeah and you know your going to for that pic



............and so am i for laughing

 

Ok, how about we stop now...mmmmmK.

 

Holy $h!+, its getting thick in here...

 

i30ds

Is your car an auto? Do you have MEVI? I am looking into modding my 1996 i30 so I wanted to have an idea what my results would be?

 

sounds good to me... and I thought you might like that.

 

Yes, it is but not for long. I am going to convert it into a manual this winter or spring. I was actually on track to do it this summer, and I had saved alost $3000 for it but then my KS and O2s crapped out and that was $600, and then I got weak and did the new two tone leather- $700, and new rims- $800, and new struts and springs- $900 so all that ate up my money pretty well. So I gotta start all over again which will take me another 3 or 4 months.

Anyway, no, I don't have the MEVI. I thought about getting one, and although it makes the 1/4 mile much quicker, it takes too much low end torque away and I would really miss that in the city. I think I will go with an extrude honed manifold instead.

If you don't mind the low end loss, it is definitly a worhty mod, even for an auto. Just because your car is an auto does not mean that it is a waste of time to mod. Some people get discouraged but don't let that happen to you.

An auto with the full exhaust and an intake will see numbers in the low 15s to high 14s, and that is more than enough to squash alot of competion. Also, if you disconnect the DR for the tranny, and torque brake to about 2000 rmp you get a pretty good god damn launch. You will even get some tire squeal into second.

 

I30ds is there any way you could expand on this? Cuz sounds like exactly what i was looking for my auto. Will this take away from the high end (there is always a trade right)? I would really appreciate it. I do my own research, but would just like to be pointed in the right direction.

 

It is the "drop resistor" mod. Check the 4th Generation Maxima FAQs and Modification page.

 

An MEVI alone will not make you faster in the 1/4 mile. You need an extended rev limiter to take advantage of the ability to keep making power.

 

do guys know what risks the dr mod would create? would it trigger the dreaded engine light to come on?

 

Alright just got done reading some stuff and ended up with a couple questions. I30ds by torque brake at 2000rpm does that mean the same thing as changing your stall speed on your TC to 2000rpm? Also does anyone know if the DR mod is possible in a 2k beyond model (only found stuff in 4th gen). And last would doing the VB mod, TC mod, and DR mod to my automajik end up with the same result as me dropping it off a cliff???? you know fubar'ed.

 

okay...about the drop resistor mod....anyone know how to explain it better...i dont get what he said about the switch...wtf is a WOT? help needed on this one...i wanna do it right..

 

WOT=wide open throttle.....flooring it.

The 4th gen stickies are your friend. Post #60
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....4&page=2&pp=40

 

To torque brake is to hold the car with the brakes and bring it up to 2000 rmps, then release the brakes.... it is not the same as a high stall on the TC.

 

I can see how an extended rev limit would help, but I am confused because when I looked at the dyno graph for the MEVI it looked like the hp kept level after 5500 rmp. The stock graph shows it nosedive after 5500, so although you are not making a new "peak" hp, wouldnt it move you through the 1/4 faster bacause you are making more hp in the 5500-6500 rmp range than the stock manifold?

 

When it comes to getting good 1/4 mile times the most important thing is mid/low end torque. The MEVI robs about 10-12 lbs of torque from the midrange. Even though the MEVI give a 20+ hp increase at redline, it is still not enough to make for the mid/low torque loss. Most guys see about the same times with an MEVI and the stock rev limiter. But once you extend that rev limiter it's a whole new ball game because you can stay in that 20+hp gain area for so much longer.....and the JWT ECU's advanced timing and leaner AF ratio makes up for the low end torque loss.

But if your just looking at 50+ mph type races then a MEVI equiped max will own a stock manifold max any day.

 

Alright, I got ya. It is just to bad that JWT mods do not work for the 97-99 ECUs. Thanks for clearing that up though.