Gas Mileage Problem
You might not even know if your KS is bad...you could have bought the car with a bad one...it is a trouble spot that most I30/Maxs experience.
Of your KS fails will not experience knock or get a CEL but the code is in there when you check the ECU.
If your knock sensor fails then a sort of safe mode is activated which retards the ignition timing just to be on the safe side since the engine can no longer detect knock because the sensor is dead...effects of this are decreased HP (about 20 HP according to various dynos I have seen on here) and sh!tty gas milage. I remember when mine crapped out I was getting about 17 MPG on a city/ highway combo. After replacing my KS along with all three o2 sensors, I started getting about 23 MPG on the same city highway driving...
Two good article on KS replacement:
http://www.skippynet.com/maxima/knocksensor.htm
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
Also, it looks to me like you could really, really use a full aftermarket SS exhaust (y pipe, cat, b pipe, and muffler)... that **** is rusted.
Of your KS fails will not experience knock or get a CEL but the code is in there when you check the ECU.
If your knock sensor fails then a sort of safe mode is activated which retards the ignition timing just to be on the safe side since the engine can no longer detect knock because the sensor is dead...effects of this are decreased HP (about 20 HP according to various dynos I have seen on here) and sh!tty gas milage. I remember when mine crapped out I was getting about 17 MPG on a city/ highway combo. After replacing my KS along with all three o2 sensors, I started getting about 23 MPG on the same city highway driving...
Two good article on KS replacement:
http://www.skippynet.com/maxima/knocksensor.htm
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
Also, it looks to me like you could really, really use a full aftermarket SS exhaust (y pipe, cat, b pipe, and muffler)... that **** is rusted.
tell that to my ****ing parents, "oo its fine replace it when it falls off, its uspposed to rust like it, all cars are like it, its fine." the ****ing o2 sensors are rusted into the pipes, the muffler hanger doesnt do anything what so ever, its broken, the flanges are peeling apart, its a ****ing mess, i need everything up to the resonator replaced, everything behind that is fine
Less weight = better mileage
Originally Posted by dr-rjp
Add me to the list of somewhat disappointing mileage. The highest I could mUnfortunately, I drive like there's a rock between my foot and the pedal!
A gallon of gas weighs 6 pounds. The I30 has an 18.5 pound fuel tank. If you keep it a little less than half full (around 8.5 pounds), you will not be dragging around 60 pounds of dead weight needlessly.
Another suggestion I have for cars with automatics is to use the gear selector to shift instead of the gas pedal (when appropriate). You will use less gas because you will have more control over the throttle and your shifting will occur without any subsequent lag than if you just push and pray.
Lags in shifting really waste gas. I swear that my gas gauge drops every time I floor it.
On the other hand, I don't know how your car shifts, but mine tends to downshift into 2nd gear moreso than 3rd regardless of how much I push the pedal or how fast I am going.
Originally Posted by dr-rjp
Somewhere I think I mentioned that lowering the weight of your car will make it run more efficiently. One of the easiest ways of doing that is NOT to always run with as full tank. Now, I'm not recommending that you keep it near empty (because that is bad for your exhaust system). What I am saying is the following:
A gallon of gas weighs 6 pounds. The I30 has an 18.5 pound fuel tank. If you keep it a little less than half full (around 8.5 pounds), you will not be dragging around 60 pounds of dead weight needlessly.
Another suggestion I have for cars with automatics is to use the gear selector to shift instead of the gas pedal (when appropriate). You will use less gas because you will have more control over the throttle and your shifting will occur without any subsequent lag than if you just push and pray.
Lags in shifting really waste gas. I swear that my gas gauge drops every time I floor it.
On the other hand, I don't know how your car shifts, but mine tends to downshift into 2nd gear moreso than 3rd regardless of how much I push the pedal or how fast I am going.
A gallon of gas weighs 6 pounds. The I30 has an 18.5 pound fuel tank. If you keep it a little less than half full (around 8.5 pounds), you will not be dragging around 60 pounds of dead weight needlessly.
Another suggestion I have for cars with automatics is to use the gear selector to shift instead of the gas pedal (when appropriate). You will use less gas because you will have more control over the throttle and your shifting will occur without any subsequent lag than if you just push and pray.
Lags in shifting really waste gas. I swear that my gas gauge drops every time I floor it.
On the other hand, I don't know how your car shifts, but mine tends to downshift into 2nd gear moreso than 3rd regardless of how much I push the pedal or how fast I am going.
Originally Posted by SuBXeRo
Ok guys im down to a knock sensor replacement or an o2 sensor replacement, which one do u guys think is the culprit
Originally Posted by i30ds
100 lbs is not going to affect fuel economy at all really...
If so, then why do owners spend magabucks to get a carbon fiber hood just so their car can weigh 40lbs less? The answer is that the less weight you carry, the faster your car can go, but the less gas it also uses.
I have seen road tests that show how removing 100 lbs of dead weight from a 3,000 lb. car can improve its gas mileage by as much as 7-8 percent, and after a year's worth of driving that amount can translate into a savings of $150 -- enough for a new mod.
Originally Posted by dr-rjp
If so, then why do owners spend magabucks to get a carbon fiber hood just so their car can weigh 40lbs less? The answer is that the less weight you carry, the faster your car can go, but the less gas it also uses...
Originally Posted by dr-rjp
I have seen road tests that show how removing 100 lbs of dead weight from a 3,000 lb. car can improve its gas mileage by as much as 7-8 percent, and after a year's worth of driving that amount can translate into a savings of $150 -- enough for a new mod.
The bottom line is the subxero's horrible fuel economy is not due to running more weight in his car by filling up the tank completely at refueling. It is due to maintenance issues.
i30ds wins the mega bux for that one lol, if anything the most noticeable difference with using gas up will be acceleration, u accelerate alot quicker with less weight,
. but now i need tof ind out what else is wrong, im still riunning on my first tank since i put the new knock in, and well im at half a tank right now with 100 miles on the trip, this is also on 89 octane. im hoping that my gas gauge is wrong and i havent used up that much, we will see in due time, i have no other trouble codes in the ecu, i dunno what can be wrong
. but now i need tof ind out what else is wrong, im still riunning on my first tank since i put the new knock in, and well im at half a tank right now with 100 miles on the trip, this is also on 89 octane. im hoping that my gas gauge is wrong and i havent used up that much, we will see in due time, i have no other trouble codes in the ecu, i dunno what can be wrong
Now that you have replaced the KS, you need to replace some other things as well, like the 3 o2 sensors, air filter, fuel filter, and spark plugs while you are at it. They are all really easy to do. Remember you do not need a CEL to have bad o2 sensors. They are a normal wear and tear item and will wear out with enough age. I ran on sh!tty o2s for quite some time before a CEL was actually triggered.
I'm confused with my car's erratic behaviour. The previous week/fillup I drove mostly highway 430 miles that took 16.438 gallons which is 26.15 mpg ...
This week, I drove all city (didn't even get onto freeway) and made 166.2 miles out of 10.483 gallons which is 15.85 mpg !!!
Normally on a mix of highway/city driving i have been getting around 20-22 mpg ...
Why such a variation ?!?!?
This week, I drove all city (didn't even get onto freeway) and made 166.2 miles out of 10.483 gallons which is 15.85 mpg !!!
Normally on a mix of highway/city driving i have been getting around 20-22 mpg ...
Why such a variation ?!?!?
Originally Posted by flthere
I'm confused with my car's erratic behaviour. The previous week/fillup I drove mostly highway 430 miles that took 16.438 gallons which is 26.15 mpg ...
This week, I drove all city (didn't even get onto freeway) and made 166.2 miles out of 10.483 gallons which is 15.85 mpg !!!
Normally on a mix of highway/city driving i have been getting around 20-22 mpg ...
Why such a variation ?!?!?
This week, I drove all city (didn't even get onto freeway) and made 166.2 miles out of 10.483 gallons which is 15.85 mpg !!!
Normally on a mix of highway/city driving i have been getting around 20-22 mpg ...
Why such a variation ?!?!?
that's okk dude but less than 16 mpg ?!?!? i agree that EPA rating is under ideal conditions but still they rate it as 19 for our I30s right ?
I do follow many threads on O2 sensors and most of the ppl here tend to say "if ain't break, don't fix it" but you seem to say otherwise. I know my car might need new O2 sensors as I have 115k on them and it did throw CEL once for the O2 sensor a month ago but the CEL disappeared and didn't come back again.
I do follow many threads on O2 sensors and most of the ppl here tend to say "if ain't break, don't fix it" but you seem to say otherwise. I know my car might need new O2 sensors as I have 115k on them and it did throw CEL once for the O2 sensor a month ago but the CEL disappeared and didn't come back again.
Originally Posted by flthere
that's okk dude but less than 16 mpg ?!?!? i agree that EPA rating is under ideal conditions but still they rate it as 19 for our I30s right ?
I do follow many threads on O2 sensors and most of the ppl here tend to say "if ain't break, don't fix it" but you seem to say otherwise. I know my car might need new O2 sensors as I have 115k on them and it did throw CEL once for the O2 sensor a month ago but the CEL disappeared and didn't come back again.
I do follow many threads on O2 sensors and most of the ppl here tend to say "if ain't break, don't fix it" but you seem to say otherwise. I know my car might need new O2 sensors as I have 115k on them and it did throw CEL once for the O2 sensor a month ago but the CEL disappeared and didn't come back again.
I'd suggest that if you are running stock pipes and plan on going to a performance replacement in the future, wait until you do the mods. That way, sticking new o2 sensors on new pipes will be an easy thing to do.
chances are i wont do that until my pipe falls off at this point, i wish i had the money to do it all right now, as much as id want to, it would be nice to feel the extra pony's, but alas i wont be able to yet, is it easy to go up to the manifold to take the sensor out, any advice?
Originally Posted by SuBXeRo
chances are i wont do that until my pipe falls off at this point, i wish i had the money to do it all right now, as much as id want to, it would be nice to feel the extra pony's, but alas i wont be able to yet, is it easy to go up to the manifold to take the sensor out, any advice?
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