water leaking into the trunk-HELP
06-21-2005, 08:22 AM
#1
water leaking into the trunk-HELP
I have been having a problem with water leaking from the drain holes on the sides of the trunk lid lip AFTER you open the trunk. It seems the water is being trapped somewhere in the lid and once you open it, the water then flows out the drain holes on either side of the lower lip and yes, right into the open trunk. Now if I look at the plastic trim piece that runs the full width of the lip (the piece that has Infiniti on it), the top of that plastic looks as if it has pulled away from the metal of the lid along most of length. Oh, this is a ’98 I30T. My guess is the water is getting in behind that trim piece, which is then trapped as it doesn’t drain until the trunk is open and then the frikken water just drains into the trunk.
Has anyone else had this problem? Any possible solutions. I really don’t want to run a bead of silicone across the top of that trim piece. Is there a replaceable gasket along the top edge of the trim piece? Suggestions are most welcome.
Has anyone else had this problem? Any possible solutions. I really don’t want to run a bead of silicone across the top of that trim piece. Is there a replaceable gasket along the top edge of the trim piece? Suggestions are most welcome.
06-21-2005, 09:41 AM
#3
Dan,
Thanks for the quick reply. The drains seem to work just fine as the water flows out of them with no problem other than the trunk lid is open and the water drops right into the trunk. It appears that water is entering the vertical portion of the trunk lid and sits there, without draining out (again, the drains seem to work just fine) until you open the trunk lid. Then when the trunk lid goes into the open position (it starts leaking out when the trunk is about 50% open), the trapped water is free to find it’s way out via the drains on the low points of the lip. Again, my guess is water is getting into that area from an area not meant to leak (from the top seal of the trim piece), therefore the water isn’t channel via the normal means. It is only when the trunk is open that the water moves to a point where it can exit. Oh, one last piece of the puzzle, the back up light lenses have moisture on the inside of them.
Thanks for the quick reply. The drains seem to work just fine as the water flows out of them with no problem other than the trunk lid is open and the water drops right into the trunk. It appears that water is entering the vertical portion of the trunk lid and sits there, without draining out (again, the drains seem to work just fine) until you open the trunk lid. Then when the trunk lid goes into the open position (it starts leaking out when the trunk is about 50% open), the trapped water is free to find it’s way out via the drains on the low points of the lip. Again, my guess is water is getting into that area from an area not meant to leak (from the top seal of the trim piece), therefore the water isn’t channel via the normal means. It is only when the trunk is open that the water moves to a point where it can exit. Oh, one last piece of the puzzle, the back up light lenses have moisture on the inside of them.
06-21-2005, 11:03 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 200
omg i have the same problem LOL liek exactly that i think its just the silicone behind the lights (middleones) has not been put back there properly or there was a problem when they put it there i thik i might take it to my uncles body shop and see what he thinks ill keep everyone updated
06-21-2005, 01:09 PM
#7
I30ds, “Looks like the whole center piece must be replaced.” is this from experience? Curious if you have had that trim section off the car?
Happy, “i might take it to my uncles body shop and see what he thinks ill keep everyone updated”, please do, I would be interested in his response.
98i30, “Did that 4 years ago under warranty”, do you still have the paperwork from the warranty work? Curious as to the various parts and cost. I am having a hard time finding a listing for the plastic trim piece. I can only imagine the cost and a used one would probably suffer from the same fate.
Looks as if it has to come off the car to see if I can create a fix. I will advise but it will have to wait a week or two to get some time.
Again, if anyone has had the part off the car, please words of wisdom are appreciated.
Happy, “i might take it to my uncles body shop and see what he thinks ill keep everyone updated”, please do, I would be interested in his response.
98i30, “Did that 4 years ago under warranty”, do you still have the paperwork from the warranty work? Curious as to the various parts and cost. I am having a hard time finding a listing for the plastic trim piece. I can only imagine the cost and a used one would probably suffer from the same fate.
Looks as if it has to come off the car to see if I can create a fix. I will advise but it will have to wait a week or two to get some time.
Again, if anyone has had the part off the car, please words of wisdom are appreciated.
06-21-2005, 07:23 PM
#9
Well finally found the part and price:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2
yeap, $228.90 then $36.49 for the dang Infiniti logo. Took a while to find as it is listed under Rear lamps->Combination lamps and not under the Trunk lid section. Go figure. But for that money, I will be pulling the trim piece off the car and see what I can do to remedy the problem. I will advise.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2
yeap, $228.90 then $36.49 for the dang Infiniti logo. Took a while to find as it is listed under Rear lamps->Combination lamps and not under the Trunk lid section. Go figure. But for that money, I will be pulling the trim piece off the car and see what I can do to remedy the problem. I will advise.
06-21-2005, 08:34 PM
#10
Originally Posted by I30TinME
Well finally found the part and price:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2
yeap, $228.90 then $36.49 for the dang Infiniti logo. Took a while to find as it is listed under Rear lamps->Combination lamps and not under the Trunk lid section. Go figure. But for that money, I will be pulling the trim piece off the car and see what I can do to remedy the problem. I will advise.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2
yeap, $228.90 then $36.49 for the dang Infiniti logo. Took a while to find as it is listed under Rear lamps->Combination lamps and not under the Trunk lid section. Go figure. But for that money, I will be pulling the trim piece off the car and see what I can do to remedy the problem. I will advise.
06-22-2005, 07:48 AM
#11
i30ds,
Roger that, just checked their web site and the price is to the penny:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2
Believe me, I would love to find the price lower, much lower. Thanks for the heads up on that site. I will take the dang thing off the car when I have a moment and see if I can seal the unit off. Again, my feelings are the water is entering along that top seam and then is trapped until you lift the trunk lid, then releases and drains.
Roger that, just checked their web site and the price is to the penny:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2
Believe me, I would love to find the price lower, much lower. Thanks for the heads up on that site. I will take the dang thing off the car when I have a moment and see if I can seal the unit off. Again, my feelings are the water is entering along that top seam and then is trapped until you lift the trunk lid, then releases and drains.
06-22-2005, 11:23 AM
#12
Originally Posted by I30TinME
i30ds,
Roger that, just checked their web site and the price is to the penny:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2
Believe me, I would love to find the price lower, much lower. Thanks for the heads up on that site. I will take the dang thing off the car when I have a moment and see if I can seal the unit off. Again, my feelings are the water is entering along that top seam and then is trapped until you lift the trunk lid, then releases and drains.
Roger that, just checked their web site and the price is to the penny:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2
Believe me, I would love to find the price lower, much lower. Thanks for the heads up on that site. I will take the dang thing off the car when I have a moment and see if I can seal the unit off. Again, my feelings are the water is entering along that top seam and then is trapped until you lift the trunk lid, then releases and drains.
06-28-2005, 11:21 PM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 76
I have a 1998 I30 and have had the exact same frustrating problem. Not only is it frustrating but embarassing when people at a grocery store stare at you as water pours out of your trunk. Also you can see condensation inside the lights as well. Also the light seems to be pulled away from the trunk lid. Did anyone figure out anymore info on this?
07-01-2005, 09:28 PM
#19
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 70
i deal in genuine parts myself, i get approx. 60% off dealer price,
the part no is 84830-51U10
i sell it here for $40.
and i do have the holes in the trunk just below the light,
i drilled them more wider than they were, so that no water stays in there...
the part no is 84830-51U10
i sell it here for $40.
and i do have the holes in the trunk just below the light,
i drilled them more wider than they were, so that no water stays in there...
07-05-2005, 06:29 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Dubaimax
i deal in genuine parts myself, i get approx. 60% off dealer price,
the part no is 84830-51U10
i sell it here for $40.
and i do have the holes in the trunk just below the light,
i drilled them more wider than they were, so that no water stays in there...
the part no is 84830-51U10
i sell it here for $40.
and i do have the holes in the trunk just below the light,
i drilled them more wider than they were, so that no water stays in there...
07-05-2005, 07:28 PM
#21
Guys,
Sorry about not responding, but I have been out of town. Now first of all, Dubaimax, the problem is not from the rubber trunk seal (I wish it were that easy) but more water entering the top of what is called the “combination light”, the plastic part that runs across the trunk lip. Now foolish me (DUH), when I was checking prices out
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=4&catalogid=2, I only looked at the entire assembly (#1), which was $228.90, but what I should have looked at is the lens and housing (#4) which is only $85.64. I am going to order that part tomorrow, when I get it I will try and document the removal of the old part and what it will take to get the new one in. I am certain I will have to remove all of the electrics (wiring harness, etc.) from the old one and move to the new. I have a cheap digital camera and will try to get some pictures, I will also see if there is a way to seal up the old unit and hopefully same someone else money versus buying a new one. Now I figure it will take a week to get the part, so hang tight and I will update.
Happy, did you ever take your car to your uncle’s body shop? Any updates?
Sorry about not responding, but I have been out of town. Now first of all, Dubaimax, the problem is not from the rubber trunk seal (I wish it were that easy) but more water entering the top of what is called the “combination light”, the plastic part that runs across the trunk lip. Now foolish me (DUH), when I was checking prices out
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=4&catalogid=2, I only looked at the entire assembly (#1), which was $228.90, but what I should have looked at is the lens and housing (#4) which is only $85.64. I am going to order that part tomorrow, when I get it I will try and document the removal of the old part and what it will take to get the new one in. I am certain I will have to remove all of the electrics (wiring harness, etc.) from the old one and move to the new. I have a cheap digital camera and will try to get some pictures, I will also see if there is a way to seal up the old unit and hopefully same someone else money versus buying a new one. Now I figure it will take a week to get the part, so hang tight and I will update.
Happy, did you ever take your car to your uncle’s body shop? Any updates?
07-06-2005, 05:00 AM
#22
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 70
hmm.. the comb lights could be possible. cuz when i changed the seal, i also took off the lights to clean them and when i had to put them back, i sealed the corners with the fish tank glue.-- i thought it was something i screwd up, so i sealed it.
so yup, the comb lights could be very possible too.
and yeah,I30TinME, just checked, the -arab maxima- ur saying, is exactly i30, i have the catalogs for both and i checked, the only difference is where the emblem or 'infinity' or 'i30' is. that would be the steering wheel, the bonnet-grille, the rear emblems.
--Happy- please update on the body shop.. I30TinME says its the combination lights, and it makes sense too..
so yup, the comb lights could be very possible too.
and yeah,I30TinME, just checked, the -arab maxima- ur saying, is exactly i30, i have the catalogs for both and i checked, the only difference is where the emblem or 'infinity' or 'i30' is. that would be the steering wheel, the bonnet-grille, the rear emblems.
--Happy- please update on the body shop.. I30TinME says its the combination lights, and it makes sense too..
07-07-2005, 11:13 AM
#23
OK, here is the definitive research on the leaking combo light unit. As mentioned, I tried to buy the “lens and housing unit” which listed for $85.64 versus the combo light assembly, which lists for $228.90. Well as it turns out, if your vehicle is built prior to 9/97, which mine was, the “lens and housing unit” is NOT available forcing you to buy the entire assembly for $228. This was not an option in my case, so I set out to fix what I have. Here is the method of my madness:
The first step is to remove the assembly, here’s how:
1) open trunk and unclip the inner trim panel off of the lip, as if you were changing the back up lights bulbs.
2) Then there are nine 8mm nuts to remove, two on each side of the trunk lip (total 4), two on each side of the interior, just inboard of the wiring harness for the lights (total 4) and then one just above the trunk latch mechanism. Then there are 4 plastic fasteners that are the real trouble. These fasteners have two ears that snap behind the metal of the trunk. I tried for a long while to pinch the two ears with various pliers but came up with this technique. After removing the 9 nuts on the threaded fasteners, I pried up on each end of the light unit and placed a ½ inch thick shim between the combo light unit and the edge of the trunk. What this did was place tension on the combo unit at the point of the fasteners. Then with tension on the fasteners, I used a long screwdriver and pressed one of the tabs on the fastener and bingo, it would pop loose. Oh, start with the two outboard fasteners then do the two inboard. Once you have unclipped these four fasteners, the unit will come loose. Oh a flashlight is needed to see as you are working in the interior of the trunk lid lip.
OK, the unit is now out and you can plainly see the separation between the red lens (exterior) and the black interior panel along the top center. It is obvious how water could penetrate between the two halves, but to prove the theory, I poured water on the unit to see what happened. Sure enough, the water seeps between the exterior lens and the backing and then settled in the light units. When you would tip the unit up, as if opening the trunk, the water would drain out various holes in the light bulb housing, areas not meant to relieve trapped water. The water would then drain out of the light units and travel to the trunk lid drains and right into the open trunk.
Solution:
It is obvious the problem is created by the separation of the exterior lens with the black backing panel as you can see how the design is supposed to work. There are multiple clips formed into the lens that are supposed to lock into the backing panel, well for some reason, these clips along the top center portion have pulled loose allowing the separation between the front lens and the backing panel. This separation is what allows water to seep in between the two halves. With this I figured if I sealed the two halves at this point, I might be able to stop the leakage. So off to the auto parts store to buy a tube of black silicone rubber. Now what I did was run a bead of the silicone filling the gap created by the separation of the two halves as well as covering the locking tabs on the backing panel. There is also a rubber gasket of sorts that goes along the top of the light unit, which I imagine is trapped between the two halves. As the halves are now separated, this gasket was very loose, so with silicone, I applied a very thin layer and glued that back in place. After allowing the silicone to cure overnight, I replaced the unit in the car and with apprehension, took a garden hose to the unit. After hosing it down for about 5 minutes, directing the spray at all angles, guess what, NO LEAKAGE.
So, a few hours of work and $3.79 for a tube of silicone, and NO MORE LEAKAGE!!!!
Oh I tried to get some digital pictures, but my camera sucks and it just wasn't working out! Sorry.
The first step is to remove the assembly, here’s how:
1) open trunk and unclip the inner trim panel off of the lip, as if you were changing the back up lights bulbs.
2) Then there are nine 8mm nuts to remove, two on each side of the trunk lip (total 4), two on each side of the interior, just inboard of the wiring harness for the lights (total 4) and then one just above the trunk latch mechanism. Then there are 4 plastic fasteners that are the real trouble. These fasteners have two ears that snap behind the metal of the trunk. I tried for a long while to pinch the two ears with various pliers but came up with this technique. After removing the 9 nuts on the threaded fasteners, I pried up on each end of the light unit and placed a ½ inch thick shim between the combo light unit and the edge of the trunk. What this did was place tension on the combo unit at the point of the fasteners. Then with tension on the fasteners, I used a long screwdriver and pressed one of the tabs on the fastener and bingo, it would pop loose. Oh, start with the two outboard fasteners then do the two inboard. Once you have unclipped these four fasteners, the unit will come loose. Oh a flashlight is needed to see as you are working in the interior of the trunk lid lip.
OK, the unit is now out and you can plainly see the separation between the red lens (exterior) and the black interior panel along the top center. It is obvious how water could penetrate between the two halves, but to prove the theory, I poured water on the unit to see what happened. Sure enough, the water seeps between the exterior lens and the backing and then settled in the light units. When you would tip the unit up, as if opening the trunk, the water would drain out various holes in the light bulb housing, areas not meant to relieve trapped water. The water would then drain out of the light units and travel to the trunk lid drains and right into the open trunk.
Solution:
It is obvious the problem is created by the separation of the exterior lens with the black backing panel as you can see how the design is supposed to work. There are multiple clips formed into the lens that are supposed to lock into the backing panel, well for some reason, these clips along the top center portion have pulled loose allowing the separation between the front lens and the backing panel. This separation is what allows water to seep in between the two halves. With this I figured if I sealed the two halves at this point, I might be able to stop the leakage. So off to the auto parts store to buy a tube of black silicone rubber. Now what I did was run a bead of the silicone filling the gap created by the separation of the two halves as well as covering the locking tabs on the backing panel. There is also a rubber gasket of sorts that goes along the top of the light unit, which I imagine is trapped between the two halves. As the halves are now separated, this gasket was very loose, so with silicone, I applied a very thin layer and glued that back in place. After allowing the silicone to cure overnight, I replaced the unit in the car and with apprehension, took a garden hose to the unit. After hosing it down for about 5 minutes, directing the spray at all angles, guess what, NO LEAKAGE.
So, a few hours of work and $3.79 for a tube of silicone, and NO MORE LEAKAGE!!!!
Oh I tried to get some digital pictures, but my camera sucks and it just wasn't working out! Sorry.
I30TinME!
07-08-2005, 06:05 AM
#25
Not a problem and glad to share the knowledge. Now one might ask, why not just push the two halves together as they were when new. Well I tried to do that with a few clamps and some padding to prevent scratching the lens side. After a few cracking noises, I decided the plastic was too old and brittle to force them back together. Also I figured they would just pull apart again, so I left them in their current position and sealed it up.
07-11-2005, 01:09 PM
#26
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2
New to the forum, but have also faced this exact problem. It is clear from the many replies that this is a design flaw. The long single piece of hard plastic will warp over time and result in the separation from gasket. The "service consultant" at my local Infinit dealer all but admitted it.
Unfortunately, Infiniti won't step up and admit the problem and fix after basic warranty expires. I was not as industrious as you and was forced to get the "service consultant" to throw in the replacement if I agreed to their very overpriced 30K service cycle maintenance (around $400K to change oil and plugs and look around under the hood)
Just curious - why did you have to remove the panel to seal the gap with silicone? Could you have run a bead with the panel in place? In any case, thanks for the repair tip - will try it next time this happens (and it will...)
Unfortunately, Infiniti won't step up and admit the problem and fix after basic warranty expires. I was not as industrious as you and was forced to get the "service consultant" to throw in the replacement if I agreed to their very overpriced 30K service cycle maintenance (around $400K to change oil and plugs and look around under the hood)
Just curious - why did you have to remove the panel to seal the gap with silicone? Could you have run a bead with the panel in place? In any case, thanks for the repair tip - will try it next time this happens (and it will...)
07-11-2005, 05:31 PM
#27
Dawg82, hey the best price on that part (combo assembly) is about $230, so if they replaced it free for a $400 service, not all that bad. Now I took it off the car cause I was determined to find the cause of the leak, by removing it I was better able to isolate the problem. Also, I am a bit **** when it comes to the car and I had a better shot at doing an acceptable job with the part off the car.
07-11-2005, 10:07 PM
#28
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 70
Originally Posted by I30TinME
Dawg82, hey the best price on that part (combo assembly) is about $230, so if they replaced it free for a $400 service, not all that bad.
$230????????????? its a rip-off! i sell that comb light for $130. original Nissan!
and I30TinME, its not 'arab max' its just i30 brother....
anyways, its no point buying the light, i think I30TinME gave us a really good cure for the leakage!
07-12-2005, 09:06 PM
#29
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2
I30TinME - The service deal was a little irritating since the car was just out of the 4yr - 50K warranty. Plus, it's clear that this is very common problem and design flaw on Infiniti's part. If it was just cosmetic, no big deal, but water leaking is a big deal.
My concern is the design of this piece will cause the separation to happen again - Would like to be able to seal with silicone next time and would hate to have to take the whole thing out. Have had bad luck with those tabs breaking off - then you have a rattle and loose part
My concern is the design of this piece will cause the separation to happen again - Would like to be able to seal with silicone next time and would hate to have to take the whole thing out. Have had bad luck with those tabs breaking off - then you have a rattle and loose part
07-13-2005, 05:07 PM
#31
HomerMAC, nice find. Update us when you get the part. Oh, did you need it due to water leakage? of damage?
Dawg82, "Have had bad luck with those tabs breaking off". you mean those center four plastic clips on the combo light? or those damn grey plastic plugs that hold the inner trim panel on? Those things are tough to get out!! and yes, the rattle around in the trunk lip if your break one, I know!
Dawg82, "Have had bad luck with those tabs breaking off". you mean those center four plastic clips on the combo light? or those damn grey plastic plugs that hold the inner trim panel on? Those things are tough to get out!! and yes, the rattle around in the trunk lip if your break one, I know!
07-14-2005, 09:21 PM
#32
u can get new tabs.. and yea mine started leaking.. then i put a washer where the nut on the bolt is.. that pulled it in for a while and looked flush...then it movedd out again... then more washers didnt help.. then i siliconed.. yea.. then i jsut started searchin ebay cuase the clean siliicone job.. looked good but i knew it wasnt supposed to be liek that and it bugged the hell out of me.. so i went and foudn the light... i thin this is mainlya 98/99 thing cuase the frekain 96 doesnt have this problem... im thinking about going to infiniti and seeing if they will take care of it..
07-15-2005, 06:55 AM
#33
Seeing this is such a wide spread problem, maybe we take a poll and see just how bad it really is, perhaps defining MY and any factory involvement (warranty). This might give enough ammunition if someone wants to take this to Infiniti but as I don’t have a clue as to how to create a poll, perhaps someone with more skills can take the lead. Thoughts????
07-19-2005, 07:59 PM
#35
Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 91
You guys should check with your dealer first. I got my entire rear light assy replaced by them for only $100 (i'm at 78k and no ext. warranty). They said the total charge should be close to $400 but infiniti has the "Total Ownership Experience" (read your warranty book) and with widespread problems they will cover some or all of the cost even out of warranty. Check with your dealer first. BTW some of you '99 guys should try getting ur coils checked under the "TOE"...i wish i had thought of that...they may actually cover some of the cost. Yet another perk of an infiniti.
10-06-2005, 04:00 PM
#36
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1
I have 97 maxima GLE.
The water is leaking under the glove box (passenger side). This happens only when the A/C is turned on.
Some one mentioned in the forum to look for the tube underneath the glovebox for anything clogged on the tube.
I am not able locate that tube. Where is that tube? Is it underneath the glove box and do I need some special
tool to remove it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
The water is leaking under the glove box (passenger side). This happens only when the A/C is turned on.
Some one mentioned in the forum to look for the tube underneath the glovebox for anything clogged on the tube.
I am not able locate that tube. Where is that tube? Is it underneath the glove box and do I need some special
tool to remove it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
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