One of the two shims is on friggin backorder! Said 7-10 days and it will be in or they will have a new eta!!!!

IF ANYONE HAPPENS TO HAVE A .44mm (.0173") VLSD side bearing adjusting shim laying around please let me know! part# 38753-56E02

 

Did you try calling everythingnissan.com?

 

No I didn't, I tried courtesy though, I'll try them, thanks.

 

no dice their either, thanks though. If worse comes to worse and I get a new and not to soon eta then I'll do my best with a peice of glass and valve lapping compound to make one of my .56mm into a .44

 

It's back togethor, unfortunatly I had to take it back out because the throw-out bearing that came with my clutch is completely wrong, it fits into the fork fine but the actuall bearing that rides on the fingers is shorter and smaller, I
just happened to push on the fork for sits and giggles to see how stiff it was, and I noticed it did nothing, I'm so lucky because otherwise I wouldn't have noticed until I bolted up the slave, which I would have done after the axles and motor mounts and y-pipe. I'm so heated, I shoud be putting the wheels on it right now!!! Check out what I saw when I took off the flywheel last night!

 

Yeah, it looks like it is time for a new rear main. Yours looks like my friends when we pulled his tranny on his 96 I30t.

Here is what mine looked like after 100k when I pulled my tranny this past summer.



Not too bad at all.

 

Not anymore!! I just filled 'snow white' up with GM Syncromesh and brought her up to 5th gear!!

 

Your rear main looks great! Your car is so less corroded, I'm jealuos, new england blows

 

Good to hear everything worked out. You should be proud... rebuilding a tranny is no easy task.

Yeah, we have like zero rust and corrosion hear in CO... If you can believe that! Even at 100k, all my bolts and stuff under the car are still gold! My friend who has a 96 I30t 5spd, bought it in CO, but we later discovered that the car spent half of its life in New England. Need less to say, he has quite a bit of corrosion and rust on the underbelly. Hell, his whole radiator support frame is so badly rusted that it is about to fall apart!

 

yeah I went to UCCS for a semester, colorado is the shiznit, colorado springs blows though. I know exactly where you're talking about, right around where the front crossmember bolts up right? every single 4th gen and i30 I've EVER seen out here is like that.

 

Yeah, thats where I am talking about. Mine is solid though... not even a spot of rust!

 

How does the fsm say to replace the rear main seal????? Does it say to remove the oil pan? Cause my rear main seal is leaking so f'ing bad it's f'ing ridiculous, I'm so pissed right now, I'm hating this car. Who the **** designed that seal? I'm willing to go to japan and sow his ******* shut and keep feeding him, and feeding him, and feeding him. Seriously, I'm removing the tranny and oil pan, putting in the main rear main seal, then putting in the stupid lower seal, that seal is a f'ing joke, stupidest design EVER! I'm driving it until the f'ing thing won't move anymore then I'm doing that.

Can you photo-copy me the fsm instructions for replacing the rear main seal? I really want to see how they say to go about doing this, even though I don't really care, I'm not going through that bull**** again, I'm removing the upper oil pan, I don't even care, that thing is ****ing ridiculous.

 

Yeah, the correct way to replace that rear main is to remove the upper oil pan (which is the bottom half of the engine. Since you already have the cross member and tranny removed, you are half way there. I would recommend doing it the right way. I did mine with out removing the oil pan and it is fine BUT I did the one on my friends 96 and now it leaks worse than before (which is weird because I did a better job on his than mine) either way we have to oull his tranny AGAIN as it is making noises again so we will pull the upper oil pan and redo the rear main proper!!

When do you need the pages by?

 

no sweat on the pages, I think I can figure it out. I wish I was still halfway their, she's been togethor for awhile now. I've been very busy, I actually just rebuilt my 2nd manual transmission, this one was for a 94 ford ranger and it went very well. It's funny, apparantly I can rebuild a tranny better than a ford dealer, the reason his bearings were junk was because ford did a recall to install an updated 5th/reverse syncro assembly, and whoever put the tranny back togethor used black rtv which is a definite no no. Excess gasket material that formed into rock hard little pebbles plugged up all of the oil passages. So if anyone rebuilds there tranny make sure they use one of the following: Yamabond 4 (available from dirt-bike shops), permetex ultra grey, or the nissan stuff. It's grey and you only need a very thin coating on one surface.

 

Cool. Yeah its sad but true... dealer (or any "professional") is pretty much worthless. Its sad how many people actually allow themselves to get butt fucced by the shop. If you want a job done right, you gotta do it yourself. Keep up the good work and post some pics when you finally drop the bottom half to replace the rear main.

 

Damn, I didn't think I'd be taking the tranny back out so soon. The oil pan is a pain in the butt to remove, but that main girdle looks heavy duty, I also like how the rod caps say "japan" in huge letters. At least it will be real easy to change the filter! (with a nissan one that i have, I know, I know, but I had the stp filter laying around and I needed to do an oil change)

 

I can atest that the rear main seal must be realy tricky. my orignal rear main didn't leak but i decided to have the rear main done when i installed the new tranny and now it leaks it doesn't drip. But it accumaltes near the weep hole. so this summer i am going to have to re do it myself. I can't believe you removed the oil pan to do the rear main. I thought it was possible to do it without removing it? Anyway once you get that beast together i would like to check it out.

 

I did it without dropping the pan the first time, and it dripped pretty bad, so if you ask me it's much smarter to do it the correct way. It's possible that only the lower c-shaped seal is leaking (aka the 'oil pan rear gasket') which means you only need to take out the Y-pipe, passanger axle, and crossmember, without having to take out the tranny. That also makes it easier because you won't have a motor lift in your way. BUT mine was actually leaking because the rear main seal got torn while trying to fit it around the crankshaft and wedge the oil-pan gasket in place at the same time, it's suspect doing it that way. Also on my car my 'front oil pan gasket' was leaking as well and now it should be good, not that I care really. I thought it was pretty cool that I was able to see what kind of shape my cylinder walls were in, and the fact that the vq not only has a main girdle, but a RIDICULOUSLY beefy one at that, hummmm, maybe that explains why your motor didn't blow up at 7600 rpm's.........

 

Damn!! There just is no stopping you is there. You're man of action... a rare thing around here!! My friend and I are going to be doing this to his 96 later this summer when we pull the tranny (yet again ) so I got lots of fun to look forward to! I replaced his rear main but I did it the half @ssed way by not removing the upper oil pan and now the fuccing thing leaks worse than before... We really went down the **** hole on that one!! It was weird because I did a better job on his than on mine... I guess you can't win them all.

What happened to your hand?

I use nissan oil filters and fuel filters and the factory NGK plugs and belts.

 

Or why you can boost the sucker up and not even have to touch the motor... all stock interals baby!!

 

Even the cold can't stop me, it's freezing inside that carport, the heater doesn't exactly warm it up to much when the door is wide open. I still have to do my water pump after this to! Once the lower pan is off the surface it bolts to is razor sharp, when I broke loose one of the upper bolts it sliced my hand. Don't forget that when you do your freinds this summer that you need to order the c-shaped seal for the front also, along with two o-rings for the oil pickup, I was lucky enough that my local infiniti dealer had them all in stock

 

Man I hate working in the cold... It suck serious @ss!! I kinda go into hibernation during the winter and don't really do much to the car. Nissan is known for after sharp @ss metal that will tear you apart!! I sliced my hand real good on the coner of the head gasket when I was replacing the KS under the lower IM. Thanks for the pointer on the parts. I knew I would need the lower c shaped seal for the front when the pan is dropped, but I will look into the two o rings for the pick up.

 

8600rpm....Yeah what pissed me off is it didn't leak before but efter it was done it now leaks. i am pretty sure your right about it being the lower gasket but we will see.

 

Yeah mine leaked horribly bad because the round seal got torn trying to force everything in, so it might almost be a safe bet to do both. Also, for both the oil pan and rear-main, put the 1/8" bead of rtv on the OUtSIDE of the channels and all the way around the bolt holes:The excess rtv gets squeezed out either the bolt holes, the outside, or into the channels, that way no rtv gets in your motor. Also, you can use the permatex super black rtv, but for two aluminum sufaces I prefer the permatex ultra grey, but don't apply a super thin coating like you do when you do the tranny.

On to the updates: My old flywheel/pp was smoked, and I thought that's why my clutch chattered horribly, but after doing everything it still chattered. So I thought it was because of the loose master cylinder reservoir bushing that I had to ghetto rig with teflon tape in order for me to even bleed my clutch (I was like, wtf, why is there still air in my clutch?!) but a new bushing didn't help. I even thought it might be my fuel pump because it was on it's way out (didn't sound like it should) So I put in the one from the parts car, still bucked. THEN IT HIT ME!! When I had everything apart the first time I notice my transaxle mount was a little dry-rotted and had the tiniest little crack. Well when I took everything back apart, I noticed the crack was getting bigger and it all made sense to me right then--That's why my clutch chatters horribly off the line, that's why my clutch clunks when I let it back out in 2-5th even if I'm super smooth with it, that's why my car wheelhops SOOO SOOOO BAD!! That's why my car doesn't chirp gears like it should! It all made perfect sense. So instead of shelling out a ton of money, I did the cutting board thing and the guy with the mitsubishi or whatever who thought about that is a GENIUS!! once you tap them in with a sledge , I can't wait to drive it, it's going to be a night and day difference I just know it! I took a screwdriver and destroyed the pu$$y a$$ liquid filled section on the rear. Here's the pics.........

 

they make poly inserts or you get get the mix and fill the mounts? Your no joke when it comes to over hauling that thing huh

 

I want to do this too. I have to get rid of the pu$$y @ss auto mounts. Way too soft . I CAN burn out of the line smoothly with them, but it takes some care full pedal work which is not always easy. Its the same thing with barking second too. Either way, I am going to buy some manual mounts and have the ES inserts put in them.

 

There are ZERO oil leaks and the clutch chatter is GONE!!!!!!!! Unfortunatly it slips a tad bit though, it could be because I bought it off E-bay, or it could be because it was broken in with the bad motor mounts, either way I really don't care because it's so minor that there is a slight possibility I'm imagining it, plus I'm going to put a different one in this summer when I do the 3.5 swap, I know there is no way a flea-bay clutch will hold a 3.5 w/150 shot.

 

nice should meet up. I wanna check out your beast.

 

After I did a few launchs and a brakestand, that's when the clutch chatter came back, and my shifter still moves excessively over bumps, and when I tap the throttle in 5th it feels to clunky, so I don't think this worked to well and there is still play in my mounts. SO I went to mcmaster and ordered some stuff to fill it with. The poly that everybody used has a hardness of 80A and a tensile strength of 1725psi, allthough it was tempting to go with the next step up 'flexible urethane casting' that has a hardness of 94a and tensile strength of 3120, I figured "screw it, these things are going to be holding a 3.5 with a hefty dose of laughing gas soon enough........... now I know it's an infiniti and all, but screw it, idle scmidle, I don't care, I actually like some lumpiness, so I ordered up the stuff that only the hardcore racers would want to fill there mounts with, "aluminum epoxy casting" with a hardness of 88D and a whopping tensile strength of 6500!!!!! I was tempted to use the 85-90D 9000 psi "solid urethane casting" but I opted with the aluminum stuff because it "dries with minimul shrinkage, .0003" less than the 80A & 94A, the reason I was concerned with shrinkage was because my rubber is old and junk so I'm going to take a torch and/or dremel and remove it all and completely fill the mount with this stuff and I don't want it to shrink and pull away from the metal. plus it dries quicker, has a longer working time, and is more resistant to tempature.

 

Oh and my clutch still slips, but it's only minor, and it ONLY DOES IT WHEN IT'S COLD? Could this be a downfall of the agressive friction material? Just like when you put racing brake pads in?

 

so your not interested in the ES bushings. I am thinking of getting those. It sucks too i had a spare set of mounts that got junked once day when my dad was putting out the trash.

 

Well the ES bushings do the same thing as the cutting board, and I think that with my wasted rubber it doesn't help out to much.

 

So thats what happened to them.

 

I think I am just gonna go with the ES mounts. I have more money than time these days.

 

DAMN! i ended up getting the 94a from mcmasters and i can live with the vibration. the whole car jolts on startups and i have to give it a little more gas from excessive vibration when at a stop. When the mounts were compleltely dried it was pretty solid. i wish you luck with the aluminum epoxy. how does the A hardness rating compare to the D?i'm guessing these will be A LOT more solid than mine

 

Yes, they'll pretty much be ridiculously solid, 94a is like 45d, so 88d according to some comparison I found online is like a hard plastic phone, so they still might dampen a little mayb compared to straight up solid metal mounts, but not by much.

 

They may also crack.....

 

ya know I was worried about that, so I think I'm going to leave like a 1/2" of rubber all around the outside and a little around the inside too.

 

i just drilled a bunch of holes into the rubber then filled them. hoping that these will not crack

 

since i can't rebuild one....
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=463159