Non-HID - Converting to High Watt Bulbs
03-09-2007, 08:27 AM
#1
Non-HID - Converting to High Watt Bulbs
Not going HID b/c this is a TON cheaper than an HID conversion. I can get the 9006 Lows, and 9005 Highs with new harnesses for $93 shipped (eautoworks). Can't beat that! (Would probably get the H4/9003 for my wife's CRV too).
Getting a pair of 80W 9006, and 120W 9005, w/wiring harnesses. Anything else I should get? Anyone know of a good write-up?
Just want to make sure it's safe to do. I don't want the car to catch on fire driving down I-95 some day.
Getting a pair of 80W 9006, and 120W 9005, w/wiring harnesses. Anything else I should get? Anyone know of a good write-up?
Just want to make sure it's safe to do. I don't want the car to catch on fire driving down I-95 some day.
none of that aftermarket crap that doesnt last too long.
03-09-2007, 09:17 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 154
03-09-2007, 10:33 AM
#5
HID kits generally aren't a good idea, for a lot of reasons.
You can get more light (than stock) with higher wattage bulbs though - how noticeable it is though is debatable.
You're taking the right approach though, by using an auxillary wiring harness. Those higher wattage bulbs will probably toast your stock wiring. Another concern would be that sometimes higher-wattage bulbs can sort of "toast" or "burn" the reflector because of the added heat. I can't tell you one way or another whether that'll happen to you.
Something else you may want to look into, however, are "HIR" bulbs. They differ from standard Halogen bulbs in that they have a reflective infrared coating with primary purpose of reflecting heat back to the filament. This in turn supposedly puts out more lumens.
The cool thing about HIR bulbs is that the base (on some) is similar to 9005/9006 bulbs. Additionally, there are aftermarket suppliers making HIR bulbs in 9005/9006 bases.
Last but not least, a really simple (and cheap) way to get extra light from a reflector that uses 9006 is to put a 9005 bulb in there. If you compare the bases on the two, there's only like a notch or something that needs to be ground/cut off to make it fit in a 9006 socket. The 9005 bulb is more efficient and slightly higher-wattage and will put out more light. You probably wouldn't need to upgrade the wiring with this upgrade either.
EDIT: BTW - how much are you paying for a wiring harness? Folks on HIDplanet will custom make some pretty nice harnesses for around $50-60.
You can get more light (than stock) with higher wattage bulbs though - how noticeable it is though is debatable.
You're taking the right approach though, by using an auxillary wiring harness. Those higher wattage bulbs will probably toast your stock wiring. Another concern would be that sometimes higher-wattage bulbs can sort of "toast" or "burn" the reflector because of the added heat. I can't tell you one way or another whether that'll happen to you.
Something else you may want to look into, however, are "HIR" bulbs. They differ from standard Halogen bulbs in that they have a reflective infrared coating with primary purpose of reflecting heat back to the filament. This in turn supposedly puts out more lumens.
The cool thing about HIR bulbs is that the base (on some) is similar to 9005/9006 bulbs. Additionally, there are aftermarket suppliers making HIR bulbs in 9005/9006 bases.
Last but not least, a really simple (and cheap) way to get extra light from a reflector that uses 9006 is to put a 9005 bulb in there. If you compare the bases on the two, there's only like a notch or something that needs to be ground/cut off to make it fit in a 9006 socket. The 9005 bulb is more efficient and slightly higher-wattage and will put out more light. You probably wouldn't need to upgrade the wiring with this upgrade either.
EDIT: BTW - how much are you paying for a wiring harness? Folks on HIDplanet will custom make some pretty nice harnesses for around $50-60.
03-09-2007, 10:56 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,860
If you get a high quality HID kit, the 9006 reflector is actually quite compatible because of the orientation of the filament. ie. You will not get a lot of glare compared to HID retros on other setups.
Furthermore, you can make your own cutoff shields which will reduce glare even more.
I would personally opt for an HID kit rather than high wattage bulbs. Make sure to check/readjust your aim after the install. Mine was actually quite low from the factory, but you don't want to blind people either.
Furthermore, you can make your own cutoff shields which will reduce glare even more.
I would personally opt for an HID kit rather than high wattage bulbs. Make sure to check/readjust your aim after the install. Mine was actually quite low from the factory, but you don't want to blind people either.
03-09-2007, 11:45 AM
#9
Originally Posted by cefiro8701
save about 50$ and get HIDs.
HIDs are $210 in the GD.
Here are the prices of the 80/100W 9006/9005 bulbs:
- $15.95 - "Sunshine Heavy Duty Wiring Harness for 9006 Headlight Light Bulbs"
- $15.95 - "Sunshine Heavy Duty Wiring Harness for 9005 Headlight Light Bulbs"
- $25.95 - "Heliolite 9006 80W Xenon White High Wattage Halogen Light Bulb - Twin Light Bulbs Pack"
- $25.95 - "Heliolite 9006 80W Xenon White High Wattage Halogen Light Bulb - Twin Light Bulbs Pack"
- $9 shipping
- $93 total
I want to upgrade my wife's CR-V too, so... - $15.95 - "H4 Heavy Duty Car Headlight Upgrade Wire Harness"
- $25.95 - "Heliolite Xenon White H4 100/80W Halogen Light Bulb (H4 High Wattage 100/80W) for HONDA CRV headlight"
- $5 shipping
- $141 total
Don't know if these are legit, but here it is:
03-09-2007, 11:50 AM
#10
Originally Posted by thisasian
(Just edited my OP to clarify the price)
plus I wouldn't be able to get the CR-V done. Gotta make the woman happy too.
plus I wouldn't be able to get the CR-V done. Gotta make the woman happy too.
just kidding- i see your point. do they BOTh have to be at the same time though?
03-09-2007, 12:10 PM
#12
Originally Posted by cefiro8701
THATS WHAT BEDS ARE FOR!!!
just kidding- i see your point. do they BOTh have to be at the same time though?
just kidding- i see your point. do they BOTh have to be at the same time though?
Just gotta keep the roads well lit so she feels safer driving.
Originally Posted by bi30
Shipping is $22
That's $191 shipped (ouch!)
Originally Posted by NewLoveI30
No blue bulbs please. You will not be happy till you go for real HID.
As long as they are brighter than stock, and cheap.
That's my criteria, bang for the buck.
03-09-2007, 12:29 PM
#13
Well Meta already said everything I could've said.....so I will say this. Go buy a relay harness as suggested, then go on eBay and buy one of those $120 HID kits. Why the $120 one? Because they all use a replica Hella ballast, 70% of them are prob from the same factory under a different label. And the aftermarket has pretty much got the ballast design to a point of reliability, since they copied an OEM one. Even if the bulbs blow, it is a cheap $50-80 replacement on eBay. That will give you the best bang for the buck.
Edit: Most of the cheap *** kits even come with a relay, so your total literally will only be like $120-150.
Edit: Most of the cheap *** kits even come with a relay, so your total literally will only be like $120-150.
03-09-2007, 12:31 PM
#14
Originally Posted by NewLoveI30
No blue bulbs please. You will not be happy till you go for real HID.
03-12-2007, 09:32 AM
#16
HIR? hmmm... I'm going to buy a pair of lows for now. Just have to figure out if I will have to modify the housing to get the big bulb head to fit.
After some Google research, here is what I've found so far:
HIR Website
Good Article Comparing different bulbs + HIR
Someone claiming they found a 9011 for $19 at the GM website
He has some on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOSHI...spagenameZWDVW
After some Google research, here is what I've found so far:
HIR Website
Originally Posted by Test on the HIR Website
With no more equipment than an ancient GE light meter, a yardstick and a fresh battery, I hooked up stock Osram 9005 and 9006 bulbs and took a reading at 24" away. Then, I repeated with the HIR bulbs. With the battery at 12.8 volts, the relative light intensity measured on the meter went from 20 to 35 for the 9006/9012 comparison and from 30 to 65 for the 9005/9011 comparison.
Someone claiming they found a 9011 for $19 at the GM website
He has some on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOSHI...spagenameZWDVW
03-12-2007, 05:13 PM
#17
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 99
I know a poster above said that he's had SilverStars in his car for years, but I've always had a problem with them. I went through two sets of SilverStars in a year.
If you're going for non-HID bulbs, I highly recommend the MTEC 4X Super White bulbs. They are cheaper than SilverStars, give off a better and whiter light, and come with a lifetime warranty. I have a set in my wife's car and I really think that they are the closest you're going to get to a HID look without getting HIDs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUTHE...spagenameZWD1V
If you're going for non-HID bulbs, I highly recommend the MTEC 4X Super White bulbs. They are cheaper than SilverStars, give off a better and whiter light, and come with a lifetime warranty. I have a set in my wife's car and I really think that they are the closest you're going to get to a HID look without getting HIDs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUTHE...spagenameZWD1V
03-13-2007, 09:18 AM
#18
eh... this article does a decent job showing that the HIR bulbs are my best bet. Props to MetaOrbit for the HIrsuggestion.
I decided to test the most commonly used bulbs, ones I considered may have valid claims and the one making the claim to the best performance:
Originally Posted by P 2 of 3
I decided to test the most commonly used bulbs, ones I considered may have valid claims and the one making the claim to the best performance:
- Sylvania standard 9006 low-beam bulb
- Sylvania standard 9005 high-beam bulb
- Sylvania XtraVision (claimed + 20% light output) low-beam bulb
- Sylvania SilverStar high-beam bulb
- Toshiba HIR low-beam bulb
- Toshiba HIR high-beam bulb
- Generic Bling Blue Bulb high-beam bulb
Standard Sylvania 9006 low-beam bulb in an E36 U.S. housing
The plot above represents the actual lowbeam light output in foot-candles of a standard Sylvania tungsten-halogen 9006 bulb in the BMW U.S. E36 headlight assembly. The scale is purposely set from 0-80 footcandles since later plots will be of bulbs that are capable of producing 80 foot-candles and this allows easy comparison of the plots.
The bump upwards in the U.S. pattern can be easily seen here. The brightest spot in the output is at I-4 (as it will be for other plots). This spot would be below the horizon at Horizontal Line 4, and to the right of the driver at Vertical Line I.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 4.1 amps, which equates to 51.7 watts.
Sylvania XtraVision low-beam bulb in an E36 U.S. housing
Comparing the XtraVision bulb with the standard tungsten-halogen bulb does show that the XtraVision bulb produced more light than the standard bulb, but it did not produce a great amount more. At the brightest point on each pattern (I-4) the standard bulb produced ~60 foot-candles and the XtraVision bulb produced ~70 foot-candles. This is an increase of 16.6%, not the claimed 20%. As can be seen, the patterns are very similar. (On the road, the additional 16.6% was not very impressive. I could see a small improvement in lighting—a subjective result, to be sure.)
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 4.0 amps, which equates to 50.4 watts.
Toshiba HIR low-beam bulb in an E36 U.S. housing
The results of the Toshiba HIR lowbeam bulb reveal an increase in light in the U.S. housing. The peak light measured at I-4 was ~80 foot-candles. This is ~33% more light than a standard halogen bulb in the same housing. There is more light to the left side of the pattern in the yellow (20-30 fc) and light blue (30-40 fc) zones. On the road, the additional 33% is noticeable. Visibility was improved. Use of these bulbs in a 9005/9006 housing must be accompanied by careful and correct lamp aim, with clear and clean headlight lenses to minimize the negative effect of the increased glare.
Not measured in this test is upward stray light, which is visible up the walls and across the ceiling as you pull into the garage or drive into a tunnel. More intense light in the beam means more upward stray light, which has the potential to cause glare-back to the driver in rain, fog and snow.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 4.5 amps, which equates to 56.7 watts.
Linear horizontal plot of all the previous low-beam results
To make it a bit simpler to understand, I did a plot of the light intensities of each bulb across the horizontal line #4:
The relative brightness of each bulb is simple to compare. The Sylvania Xtra- Vision bulb actually produced less light than a standard Sylvania bulb just to the left of the bright spot in the U.S. pattern.
The plot above represents the actual lowbeam light output in foot-candles of a standard Sylvania tungsten-halogen 9006 bulb in the BMW U.S. E36 headlight assembly. The scale is purposely set from 0-80 footcandles since later plots will be of bulbs that are capable of producing 80 foot-candles and this allows easy comparison of the plots.
The bump upwards in the U.S. pattern can be easily seen here. The brightest spot in the output is at I-4 (as it will be for other plots). This spot would be below the horizon at Horizontal Line 4, and to the right of the driver at Vertical Line I.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 4.1 amps, which equates to 51.7 watts.
Sylvania XtraVision low-beam bulb in an E36 U.S. housing
Comparing the XtraVision bulb with the standard tungsten-halogen bulb does show that the XtraVision bulb produced more light than the standard bulb, but it did not produce a great amount more. At the brightest point on each pattern (I-4) the standard bulb produced ~60 foot-candles and the XtraVision bulb produced ~70 foot-candles. This is an increase of 16.6%, not the claimed 20%. As can be seen, the patterns are very similar. (On the road, the additional 16.6% was not very impressive. I could see a small improvement in lighting—a subjective result, to be sure.)
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 4.0 amps, which equates to 50.4 watts.
Toshiba HIR low-beam bulb in an E36 U.S. housing
The results of the Toshiba HIR lowbeam bulb reveal an increase in light in the U.S. housing. The peak light measured at I-4 was ~80 foot-candles. This is ~33% more light than a standard halogen bulb in the same housing. There is more light to the left side of the pattern in the yellow (20-30 fc) and light blue (30-40 fc) zones. On the road, the additional 33% is noticeable. Visibility was improved. Use of these bulbs in a 9005/9006 housing must be accompanied by careful and correct lamp aim, with clear and clean headlight lenses to minimize the negative effect of the increased glare.
Not measured in this test is upward stray light, which is visible up the walls and across the ceiling as you pull into the garage or drive into a tunnel. More intense light in the beam means more upward stray light, which has the potential to cause glare-back to the driver in rain, fog and snow.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 4.5 amps, which equates to 56.7 watts.
Linear horizontal plot of all the previous low-beam results
To make it a bit simpler to understand, I did a plot of the light intensities of each bulb across the horizontal line #4:
The relative brightness of each bulb is simple to compare. The Sylvania Xtra- Vision bulb actually produced less light than a standard Sylvania bulb just to the left of the bright spot in the U.S. pattern.
03-13-2007, 09:21 AM
#19
....
Standard Sylvania high-beam bulb in an E36 U.S. housing
The generic Sylvania 9005 low-beam bulb in the E36 housing makes what could be considered a typical high-beam pattern. The peak at H-3 is 109 foot-candles. H-3 represents the horizon (line 3) straight ahead of the driver (vertical line H.) On the road these provide adequate and uniform lighting.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 4.9 amps, which equates to 61.7 watts.
Standard Sylvania Silver-Star bulb in an E36 U.S. housing
The Sylvania 9005 “SilverStar” highbeam bulb is advertised as making “whiter and 20% brighter” light, and this is supposed to improve the driver’s ability to use the light. I can’t comment on that claim, although the bulb does have a blue coating on the quartz envelope. What is obvious in comparing the “SilverStar” to the standard Sylvania high-beam bulb is that the SilverStar makes less light than a standard bulb. The difference at the brightest point in the beam is 77 foot-candles from the SilverStar, and 109 footcandles from the normal high-beam bulb. This equates to ~23% less light. The pattern is basically maintained with perhaps a bit more light going towards the left side. The loss of light is fairly uniform across the entire pattern compared to the standard clear halogen bulb. I didn’t try these on the road, so I have no comment on how well they work.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 5 amps, which equates to 63 watts.
Generic 9005 blue-bulb, claimed 100W, in an E36 U.S. housing
This bulb came to me with no manufacturer’s markings; indeed, the only marking on it was 9005, HR3. It has a fairly dark blue coating on the quartz envelope.
My initial impression on testing it was that the light appeared to be a blue color when compared to all the other bulbs I’d tested. In looking at the headlight assembly from a distance, the blue color is quite noticeable, and glare seems increased or more irritating (a subjective measurement). It’s obvious here that not only has the pattern changed with a strange-looking center spot, but also the intensity compared to a normal halogen high-beam is considerably less. This appears to be a lose-lose proposition.
I didn’t try these on the road, so I have no comment on how well they work.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 5.4 amps, which equates to 68 watts, despite the claim of 100W.
Toshiba HIR 9011 high-beam bulb in a E36 U.S. housing
The Toshiba 9011 is an impressive bulb. Since glare to oncoming traffic is normally not a concern with high-beam use (since they should only be used with no oncoming traffic, or traffic in front of you within the fall of the beam), it is of interest to us. The pattern also seems shifted with the most intense spot moved downwards (to line 4). The peak output at H-4 was 119 foot-candles, compared to 99 foot-candles in a normal halogen bulb. This is an increase of 17% at the brightest spot. What is useful with this bulb is the overall increase in brightness compared to a standard halogen bulb. The pattern also seems to favor the left side a bit.
I have used these on the road, and they are impressive. Brightness is more than adequate, and the overall pattern provides not only good central illumination, but in combination with the low beam, good side and overhead illumination.
These bulbs should never be on when there is oncoming traffic, and I would strongly suggest only using them in clean and well-polished headlight housings.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 5.1 amps, which equates to 64.2 watts.
Linear horizontal plot of all the previous high-beam results
To make it a bit simpler to understand, I did a plot of the light intensities of each bulb across the horizontal line #3—which represents the horizon, with the exception of the Toshiba HIR 9011 bulb; this was plotted with line #4 (where it was most intense.)
The most apparent conclusion from the following chart is the clear inferiority of the blue-bulb in producing useful light. All the other bulbs were useable in the vehicle; but use of a blue bulb such as was tested would be a step backwards in illumination. If the user is vigilant about not using the high beam when in any traffic conditions, the Toshiba bulb makes an impressive and useful amount of light.
Conclusions: My tests led me to conclude that it is possible to increase the usefulness of the stock E36 U.S. headlights. But while the bulb used will make a large difference, it is equally important that the headlight cover be in good condition, for two reasons:
More effective: Light gets to the road if the cover is clear, and isn’t scattered or absorbed by scratches and pitting.
Glare is greatly reduced; a pitted and scratched cover creates a great deal of glare for oncoming and leading drivers.
The M3 is now drivable at night.
......
Originally Posted by P 3 of 3
Standard Sylvania high-beam bulb in an E36 U.S. housing
The generic Sylvania 9005 low-beam bulb in the E36 housing makes what could be considered a typical high-beam pattern. The peak at H-3 is 109 foot-candles. H-3 represents the horizon (line 3) straight ahead of the driver (vertical line H.) On the road these provide adequate and uniform lighting.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 4.9 amps, which equates to 61.7 watts.
Standard Sylvania Silver-Star bulb in an E36 U.S. housing
The Sylvania 9005 “SilverStar” highbeam bulb is advertised as making “whiter and 20% brighter” light, and this is supposed to improve the driver’s ability to use the light. I can’t comment on that claim, although the bulb does have a blue coating on the quartz envelope. What is obvious in comparing the “SilverStar” to the standard Sylvania high-beam bulb is that the SilverStar makes less light than a standard bulb. The difference at the brightest point in the beam is 77 foot-candles from the SilverStar, and 109 footcandles from the normal high-beam bulb. This equates to ~23% less light. The pattern is basically maintained with perhaps a bit more light going towards the left side. The loss of light is fairly uniform across the entire pattern compared to the standard clear halogen bulb. I didn’t try these on the road, so I have no comment on how well they work.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 5 amps, which equates to 63 watts.
Generic 9005 blue-bulb, claimed 100W, in an E36 U.S. housing
This bulb came to me with no manufacturer’s markings; indeed, the only marking on it was 9005, HR3. It has a fairly dark blue coating on the quartz envelope.
My initial impression on testing it was that the light appeared to be a blue color when compared to all the other bulbs I’d tested. In looking at the headlight assembly from a distance, the blue color is quite noticeable, and glare seems increased or more irritating (a subjective measurement). It’s obvious here that not only has the pattern changed with a strange-looking center spot, but also the intensity compared to a normal halogen high-beam is considerably less. This appears to be a lose-lose proposition.
I didn’t try these on the road, so I have no comment on how well they work.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 5.4 amps, which equates to 68 watts, despite the claim of 100W.
Toshiba HIR 9011 high-beam bulb in a E36 U.S. housing
The Toshiba 9011 is an impressive bulb. Since glare to oncoming traffic is normally not a concern with high-beam use (since they should only be used with no oncoming traffic, or traffic in front of you within the fall of the beam), it is of interest to us. The pattern also seems shifted with the most intense spot moved downwards (to line 4). The peak output at H-4 was 119 foot-candles, compared to 99 foot-candles in a normal halogen bulb. This is an increase of 17% at the brightest spot. What is useful with this bulb is the overall increase in brightness compared to a standard halogen bulb. The pattern also seems to favor the left side a bit.
I have used these on the road, and they are impressive. Brightness is more than adequate, and the overall pattern provides not only good central illumination, but in combination with the low beam, good side and overhead illumination.
These bulbs should never be on when there is oncoming traffic, and I would strongly suggest only using them in clean and well-polished headlight housings.
Measured current draw at 12.6V was 5.1 amps, which equates to 64.2 watts.
Linear horizontal plot of all the previous high-beam results
To make it a bit simpler to understand, I did a plot of the light intensities of each bulb across the horizontal line #3—which represents the horizon, with the exception of the Toshiba HIR 9011 bulb; this was plotted with line #4 (where it was most intense.)
The most apparent conclusion from the following chart is the clear inferiority of the blue-bulb in producing useful light. All the other bulbs were useable in the vehicle; but use of a blue bulb such as was tested would be a step backwards in illumination. If the user is vigilant about not using the high beam when in any traffic conditions, the Toshiba bulb makes an impressive and useful amount of light.
Conclusions: My tests led me to conclude that it is possible to increase the usefulness of the stock E36 U.S. headlights. But while the bulb used will make a large difference, it is equally important that the headlight cover be in good condition, for two reasons:
More effective: Light gets to the road if the cover is clear, and isn’t scattered or absorbed by scratches and pitting.
Glare is greatly reduced; a pitted and scratched cover creates a great deal of glare for oncoming and leading drivers.
The M3 is now drivable at night.
03-17-2007, 09:01 PM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 15
There are even cheaper kits at USD125 shipped! check out this one http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...howtopic=69170
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