SES, TCS & SLIP lights - car sputters in cold weather
07-14-2009, 07:04 PM
#1
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 61
SES, TCS & SLIP lights - car sputters in cold weather
My 2000 I30 currently has the SES, TCS & SLIP lights all on, all the time. Took it to the stealership and they said it was the ignition coil. Replaced all 6 myself in 15 minutes, and it DID stop idling rough, but the lights never went away, nor did the "jerky" sputtering when I first start the car in cold weather. AND it did not pass the emissions test.
I tried unhooking the battery over night, it did not reset the lights. My mechanic tried to reset the codes with his machine, no dice there either (although he did pass the car even though it actually didn't pass emissions). I've also had to replace my MAF 2 years ago, and an ignition coil a year before that.
I could care less about the lights, but my TCS really is off and it will not pass emissions again. That I DO care about. Something is causing my ignition coils and MAF to fail, and I;d like to get to the source of the problem instead of replacing the MAF and coils every year. Anybody have an idea what the problem might be?
I tried unhooking the battery over night, it did not reset the lights. My mechanic tried to reset the codes with his machine, no dice there either (although he did pass the car even though it actually didn't pass emissions). I've also had to replace my MAF 2 years ago, and an ignition coil a year before that.
I could care less about the lights, but my TCS really is off and it will not pass emissions again. That I DO care about. Something is causing my ignition coils and MAF to fail, and I;d like to get to the source of the problem instead of replacing the MAF and coils every year. Anybody have an idea what the problem might be?
07-16-2009, 05:49 AM
#5
Three things going on here:
P0420 code is Bank 1 catalyst inefficient, there is a TSB on that one. Search the 5th Gen forum for lots of info.
P1320 is ignition signal, usually associated with the coil packs. However since you have already replaced them, you should look at other sources, such as the wiring and the crank & cam position sensors. You DO have NGK plugs in there, don't you?
The stumble at cold start is probably the upper intake gasket leaking. It will "cure" itself after the engine warms up, but will eventually need replacing to finally fix the issue.
And no, the catalytic converter is not the cause of the performance problem, but you will never pass emissions until the P0420 is resolved.
P0420 code is Bank 1 catalyst inefficient, there is a TSB on that one. Search the 5th Gen forum for lots of info.
P1320 is ignition signal, usually associated with the coil packs. However since you have already replaced them, you should look at other sources, such as the wiring and the crank & cam position sensors. You DO have NGK plugs in there, don't you?
The stumble at cold start is probably the upper intake gasket leaking. It will "cure" itself after the engine warms up, but will eventually need replacing to finally fix the issue.
And no, the catalytic converter is not the cause of the performance problem, but you will never pass emissions until the P0420 is resolved.
Last edited by oldngivout; 07-16-2009 at 05:51 AM.
07-16-2009, 01:28 PM
#6
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 61
Ok searched the threads for the TSB on 0420, sounds like I def need a new catalytic converter. The guy at AutoZone showed me the part I needed, it looked like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...Q5fAccessories
Is that the right part?
As for the 1320 code, I'm not sure what NGK plugs are, soooooo...what are NGK plugs?
Thanks for all your help,
Ethan
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...Q5fAccessories
Is that the right part?
As for the 1320 code, I'm not sure what NGK plugs are, soooooo...what are NGK plugs?
Thanks for all your help,
Ethan
07-16-2009, 01:59 PM
#7
You didn't search hard enough evidently. The Ebay cat is NOT the one for the P0420 code. Don't buy that one. The Bank 1 cat is in the y-pipe. The entire y-pipe must be changed out. I think it is a dealer only item, maybe not.
As for the spark plugs, NGK is the original Nissan brand used for optimum performance. Bosch double platinum, for instance, will run like crap in your car.
As for the spark plugs, NGK is the original Nissan brand used for optimum performance. Bosch double platinum, for instance, will run like crap in your car.
07-16-2009, 04:30 PM
#8
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Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
Some cars have an oversensitive ecu software problem and there is a tsb for it, other times its caused by the cat itself, and then other times it's a faulty o2 sensor. To avoid people having very expensive bills, I just drill out some anti-foulers and put them on the rear o2's when I come across P0420's & p0430's on a 5th gen, it will work for all three possibility's and be cheaper than any one.
09-07-2009, 07:14 PM
#9
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 239
Three things going on here:
P0420 code is Bank 1 catalyst inefficient, there is a TSB on that one. Search the 5th Gen forum for lots of info.
P1320 is ignition signal, usually associated with the coil packs. However since you have already replaced them, you should look at other sources, such as the wiring and the crank & cam position sensors. You DO have NGK plugs in there, don't you?
The stumble at cold start is probably the upper intake gasket leaking. It will "cure" itself after the engine warms up, but will eventually need replacing to finally fix the issue.
And no, the catalytic converter is not the cause of the performance problem, but you will never pass emissions until the P0420 is resolved.
P0420 code is Bank 1 catalyst inefficient, there is a TSB on that one. Search the 5th Gen forum for lots of info.
P1320 is ignition signal, usually associated with the coil packs. However since you have already replaced them, you should look at other sources, such as the wiring and the crank & cam position sensors. You DO have NGK plugs in there, don't you?
The stumble at cold start is probably the upper intake gasket leaking. It will "cure" itself after the engine warms up, but will eventually need replacing to finally fix the issue.
And no, the catalytic converter is not the cause of the performance problem, but you will never pass emissions until the P0420 is resolved.
08-18-2010, 12:49 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 61
Where is the O2 sensor located? And is there a specific thread size anti-fouler I need to purchase?
03-30-2012, 12:09 PM
#11
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 61
And ANOTHER YEAR and a half and still dealing with this stupid emissions problem.
But this time I fixed it.
My ignition coils were fine, but they were aftermarket coils and did not clear the lights in my dash. So I got myself some OEM gray dot ignitions coils. The TCS Off and SLIP lights disappeared and the P1320 code was gone too, but I still had the P0420 code and the SES light was still on.
oldngivout was right - it was my upper intake gasket. But I was done sinking money into this thing so I followed KRRZ350's advice and drilled out two anti-foulers (and THESE NON-FOULERS part number 42002 are the ones that fit perfectly) and after that the light disappeared and never came back. Best of all - after all these years it finally passed emissions!
Big thanks to oldngivout and KRRZ350.
One last question: I have six after market ignition coils that work but didn't clear my lights. How much do you think I should ask for them to sell?
But this time I fixed it.
My ignition coils were fine, but they were aftermarket coils and did not clear the lights in my dash. So I got myself some OEM gray dot ignitions coils. The TCS Off and SLIP lights disappeared and the P1320 code was gone too, but I still had the P0420 code and the SES light was still on.
oldngivout was right - it was my upper intake gasket. But I was done sinking money into this thing so I followed KRRZ350's advice and drilled out two anti-foulers (and THESE NON-FOULERS part number 42002 are the ones that fit perfectly) and after that the light disappeared and never came back. Best of all - after all these years it finally passed emissions!
Big thanks to oldngivout and KRRZ350.
One last question: I have six after market ignition coils that work but didn't clear my lights. How much do you think I should ask for them to sell?
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