HOW-TO: Fixing the 98-99 center tail light bulge
#1
HOW-TO: Fixing the 98-99 center tail light bulge
If you drive a 98-99, you're probably aware that your center tail light is bowed out and lets water into the light, which can then get in your trunk. Apparently there was a TSB for the center tail light of the 98-99 I30s. My guess is that the original glue that held the outer lens to the inside backing plate failed, let water in, and when that water froze, pushed the two pieces apart further.
I had my 98-99 lights in my car for a year before I finally fixed mine, and in that time the gap grew to the point where I could stick my finger inside the light. Naturally, some mold/dirt accumulated in the bottom corners.
The first step is to remove the center light from the car. There are 9 nuts total. I started by using a 90* hose attachment that was able to reach down in the crevice and clean out the caked on dirt and grime. I then let it dry out for a day before resealing the light.
I used a heat gun to heat up the glue that held the two pieces together. Make sure it doesn't get too hot or the outer lens will deform/melt. You may be able to heat it up enough with a hair dryer, but it will probably take a while.
I started on one side and worked to the other by heating up a 12" section of the glue (on the top of the light), then pressing the two piece together with my hands. I then held them together with a clamp, but made the mistake of getting the outer lens too hot, which got bent when I put the clamp on to hold it. To avoid this, you could probably get away with just holding them together by hand until the glue cures. In a practice run I did with a spare light, I accidentally cracked the outer lens by having the clamp set too tight, so be very careful when using a clamp. Make sure it's got some sort of rubber on it to distribute to load.
The whole heating/sealing process only took 15 minutes. Once the glue dried, I sealed up all the small holes on the top of the light with RTV so no more water can work its way in there. I then reattached the black rubber strip that goes on the top of the light with some more clear RTV, but I'm sure some sort of glue would also work.
So after a car wash and a bad storm, I'm happy to report that no more water is inside my tail light!
Don't spend $200+ getting a new lens from the dealer, and stop draining out your light after every rain, just take 30 minutes and your light will be better than new!
I didn't take pics during the process, but I can do before/after pics if anyone is interested!
I had my 98-99 lights in my car for a year before I finally fixed mine, and in that time the gap grew to the point where I could stick my finger inside the light. Naturally, some mold/dirt accumulated in the bottom corners.
The first step is to remove the center light from the car. There are 9 nuts total. I started by using a 90* hose attachment that was able to reach down in the crevice and clean out the caked on dirt and grime. I then let it dry out for a day before resealing the light.
I used a heat gun to heat up the glue that held the two pieces together. Make sure it doesn't get too hot or the outer lens will deform/melt. You may be able to heat it up enough with a hair dryer, but it will probably take a while.
I started on one side and worked to the other by heating up a 12" section of the glue (on the top of the light), then pressing the two piece together with my hands. I then held them together with a clamp, but made the mistake of getting the outer lens too hot, which got bent when I put the clamp on to hold it. To avoid this, you could probably get away with just holding them together by hand until the glue cures. In a practice run I did with a spare light, I accidentally cracked the outer lens by having the clamp set too tight, so be very careful when using a clamp. Make sure it's got some sort of rubber on it to distribute to load.
The whole heating/sealing process only took 15 minutes. Once the glue dried, I sealed up all the small holes on the top of the light with RTV so no more water can work its way in there. I then reattached the black rubber strip that goes on the top of the light with some more clear RTV, but I'm sure some sort of glue would also work.
So after a car wash and a bad storm, I'm happy to report that no more water is inside my tail light!
Don't spend $200+ getting a new lens from the dealer, and stop draining out your light after every rain, just take 30 minutes and your light will be better than new!
I didn't take pics during the process, but I can do before/after pics if anyone is interested!
#5
Wow...I have the same exact issue on my I30...and pretty much had given up because I tried everything. I couldn't figure out what the problem was if my life depended on it. Im going to try this out...
#6
nice job... i tried and cracked mine.. now i have two upsate sides(98-99) for sale if anyone wants. I personally like the clear 96s.
#7
#8
Originally Posted by JNCoRacer
I just did my 98-99 tail conversion. I dont have this problem. They sit flush. Is this something that usually happens from hot outdoor temps?
#9
We use the same 9006 bulbs as all the Maximas and most other cars. It's not the bulbs.
9006? You mean 1157?
Some people had their lights replaced by the factory already, and some lights probably didn't fail if they were in climates that didn't freeze. You could always prevent it from happening by putting some RTV sealant along the top of the light to make sure no water gets in the cracks.
9006? You mean 1157?
Some people had their lights replaced by the factory already, and some lights probably didn't fail if they were in climates that didn't freeze. You could always prevent it from happening by putting some RTV sealant along the top of the light to make sure no water gets in the cracks.
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