FS 1992 Maxima GXE a/t pebble beige, Kirksville, MO
05-08-2010, 09:38 PM
#1
FS 1992 Maxima GXE a/t pebble beige, Kirksville, MO
Pics will come either tomorrow, or Wednesday if the weather holds.
143k miles, clean title, located in Kirksville, Missouri. Price at the bottom.
Timing belt/water pump/ etc done less than 2k miles ago.
All 6 injectors replaced with NEW about 2k miles ago.
New vacuum lines, new rubber fuel lines under hood.
Newer Douglas tires.
Zero rust (one spot of minor rust cleaned up, mentioned below)
Paint is fair, the body color trim pieces on the drivers side doors have faded off.
Power locks w/ keyless pad work well, the drivers door lock mechanisms could use a good lubing, occasionally it (only the drivers door) won't pop up QUITE far enough with the keypad unlock alone.
A/C is still r12, doesn't leak at all, will freeze your ***** off in 100* weather.
Transmission shifts well, no slippage that I've ever noticed.
My kenwood mp3 CD player will go with the car as is, I'll be removing the sub and amp at my as-is asking price, or will throw them in with the higher price. This system is one I threw together in 2 hours from components I had on hand, I had planned on a false floor eventually, but lost interest in working on the car. It sounds pretty good, but its not much on the looks department.
Heated power mirrors, ABS with new pads up front, back pads are still in good shape, have replacements for the back that will go with the car, and Drivers air bag.
The bad:
Needs a windshield (rock chip turned into big crack, passed inspection 2 years ago, coming due again next month, and was told last time that the next time it wont pass). If I don't have the car sold by next month, I'll be replacing the windshield and tacking a bit more onto the price of the car
Passenger CV joint is bad, it clicks when you turn and accelerate, drivers is holding fine, but it has a replacement boot on it. I planned on doing both axles if i was going to keep the car.
Needs passenger rear window regulator replaced. Drivers side rear door panel has a long cut in it, not sure what caused it, but its the common brown and beige, so a replacement panel shouldn't be hard to come by.
Car was in an accident in 1994, passenger rear side was hit hard, the repair is not noticeable, except one spot on the bottom jam of the rear passenger door, where the new panel was grafted in had a slight bit of paint bubble scale that I buffed off and primed, but it happened. Was also purchased brand new off the lot in 92 with minor hail damage on the hood, roof, and deck lid.
I'm selling it because it sits most of the time, I've not driven it since last fall. When I detail it for the pics, I'm going to take it out for a short highway jaunt and cruise around the local lake to be sure nothing else is wrong with it. $3000 FIRM as is, $4000 if I replace the windshield, leave the whole stereo, and replace the axles. If it doesn't sell before the end of the month, I'll have to replace the windshield, and it'll be $3300/$4000. The car is very reliable, I've had it since may 2001, my aunt and uncle had it in Texas from 1992-2001. It saw almost entirely highway miles while they had it. It has NEVER been smoked in. I can provide you with several of the maintenance records, as well as the original window sticker. The car currently has some aftermarket floor mats in it, but the original mats will go with the car as well.
143k miles, clean title, located in Kirksville, Missouri. Price at the bottom.
Timing belt/water pump/ etc done less than 2k miles ago.
All 6 injectors replaced with NEW about 2k miles ago.
New vacuum lines, new rubber fuel lines under hood.
Newer Douglas tires.
Zero rust (one spot of minor rust cleaned up, mentioned below)
Paint is fair, the body color trim pieces on the drivers side doors have faded off.
Power locks w/ keyless pad work well, the drivers door lock mechanisms could use a good lubing, occasionally it (only the drivers door) won't pop up QUITE far enough with the keypad unlock alone.
A/C is still r12, doesn't leak at all, will freeze your ***** off in 100* weather.
Transmission shifts well, no slippage that I've ever noticed.
My kenwood mp3 CD player will go with the car as is, I'll be removing the sub and amp at my as-is asking price, or will throw them in with the higher price. This system is one I threw together in 2 hours from components I had on hand, I had planned on a false floor eventually, but lost interest in working on the car. It sounds pretty good, but its not much on the looks department.
Heated power mirrors, ABS with new pads up front, back pads are still in good shape, have replacements for the back that will go with the car, and Drivers air bag.
The bad:
Needs a windshield (rock chip turned into big crack, passed inspection 2 years ago, coming due again next month, and was told last time that the next time it wont pass). If I don't have the car sold by next month, I'll be replacing the windshield and tacking a bit more onto the price of the car
Passenger CV joint is bad, it clicks when you turn and accelerate, drivers is holding fine, but it has a replacement boot on it. I planned on doing both axles if i was going to keep the car.
Needs passenger rear window regulator replaced. Drivers side rear door panel has a long cut in it, not sure what caused it, but its the common brown and beige, so a replacement panel shouldn't be hard to come by.
Car was in an accident in 1994, passenger rear side was hit hard, the repair is not noticeable, except one spot on the bottom jam of the rear passenger door, where the new panel was grafted in had a slight bit of paint bubble scale that I buffed off and primed, but it happened. Was also purchased brand new off the lot in 92 with minor hail damage on the hood, roof, and deck lid.
I'm selling it because it sits most of the time, I've not driven it since last fall. When I detail it for the pics, I'm going to take it out for a short highway jaunt and cruise around the local lake to be sure nothing else is wrong with it. $3000 FIRM as is, $4000 if I replace the windshield, leave the whole stereo, and replace the axles. If it doesn't sell before the end of the month, I'll have to replace the windshield, and it'll be $3300/$4000. The car is very reliable, I've had it since may 2001, my aunt and uncle had it in Texas from 1992-2001. It saw almost entirely highway miles while they had it. It has NEVER been smoked in. I can provide you with several of the maintenance records, as well as the original window sticker. The car currently has some aftermarket floor mats in it, but the original mats will go with the car as well.
Last edited by Golden Ice; 05-11-2010 at 08:34 PM.
05-08-2010, 09:44 PM
#3
Also, the suspension is stock, wheels are stock, added a couple other options to the original post. (ABS, heated power mirrors, air bag)
Last edited by Golden Ice; 05-08-2010 at 09:47 PM.
05-12-2010, 04:03 PM
#5
Interior pics to follow. I spotted an area on the top of the rear passenger door where the clear coat is peeling, see pics below. Theres a spot that would easily come off with a clay bar on the drivers front fender where some green chain link fence rolled against the car, pic included, I'll try to find my clay bar before I wax the car and take it off. Pic of the cut(s) in the rear drivers side door included. Both spots actually look like one of those vinyl/leather repair kits would probably fix them, one is only a hairline cut, and the other only a slight split.
The dash lights have been replaced with red bulbs instead of the regular green condom colored bulbs, I found the red offered a big improvement in my night vision over the greenish light, especially when the lights were dimmed.
The main dome light doesn't work, have never checked to see if its the bulb. Never really cared, as the map lights work fine.
I replaced the MAF sensor with a reman unit right after I did the injectors. I replaced the fuel filter and rubber fuel hoses under the hood about 3 months after I did the injectors (fuel filter was only ~6 months old when I did the injectors, only replaced it again because it was convenient.)
Car will come with the original nissan valet key, two original nissan main keys (one heavily used, one pretty new), and a total of four copies.
The door lock timer has already been re-soldered.
Doesn't leak or use a DROP of oil, has run Castrol Syntec w/ Wix or better filters since 70k miles. Less than 15k on last transmission fluid change (didn't flush, just drain and refill).
Pics:
The dash lights have been replaced with red bulbs instead of the regular green condom colored bulbs, I found the red offered a big improvement in my night vision over the greenish light, especially when the lights were dimmed.
The main dome light doesn't work, have never checked to see if its the bulb. Never really cared, as the map lights work fine.
I replaced the MAF sensor with a reman unit right after I did the injectors. I replaced the fuel filter and rubber fuel hoses under the hood about 3 months after I did the injectors (fuel filter was only ~6 months old when I did the injectors, only replaced it again because it was convenient.)
Car will come with the original nissan valet key, two original nissan main keys (one heavily used, one pretty new), and a total of four copies.
The door lock timer has already been re-soldered.
Doesn't leak or use a DROP of oil, has run Castrol Syntec w/ Wix or better filters since 70k miles. Less than 15k on last transmission fluid change (didn't flush, just drain and refill).
Pics:
05-12-2010, 04:09 PM
#10
Any other pics available by request, except for the trunk, which has a bunch of my tools in it until my next day off work when I can reorganize my truck box to fit them in there, then I'll take some pics of the trunk..which is missing the floor liner, but has a blandex floor with some gray carpet on it, and a removable section to access the spare tire well..I'm not sure if I still have the spare, as it didn't hold air, so I took it out.
05-12-2010, 05:23 PM
#11
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 116
Nice pics. But the most important photos are, in the trunk if you remove the side pannels, to see the metal,as well a view of the rear wheel wells by removing the rear seat. And the front shock towers from inside the engine bay.
05-12-2010, 09:13 PM
#12
I'll make sure I get pics of those areas up, probably Sunday night if its stopped raining by then. Last fall I had examined both areas and they were still spotless, and the car wasn't driven all winter so it shouldn't have changed. The car spent the first 9 years of its life in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area, and since I've had it in northern MO, I've taken off the fender well liners and hosed out the underside every spring that its been driven through winter.
05-18-2010, 11:07 PM
#16
Specs on the audio:
Kenwood KDC-MPV622 mp3 cd player w/ Ipod input cable included.
Front speakers Pioneer dual channel 4x6, wired for additional tweeters, passenger side adhesive gave out and fell on the door and got smashed between the dash and the door, so I removed it. Passenger tweet is still there and connected.
Rear speakers: basic stock type pioneer paper cone speakers driven directly off the headunit.
Sub: one 10" Pioneer, drawing a blank on the model number, was an upper tier "regular" pioneer, a step below the premier line.
Amp: 4 channel Legacy, driving front speakers (new wiring run to the doors), and the sub. I eliminated the factory non-bose amp, and ran 16ga wire from the dash to the rear speakers, and 18ga from the doors to the dash, 16 ga from the trunk to the dash for the front channels. The head unit offers non fading rear pre-outs as well as front pre-outs, both are used. The system as it runs now sounds good, fantastic for metal and rock, sounds good for a hip hop/rap, just don't expect to shake windows for 6 blocks in all directions. The amp has a remote bass boost control, its installed and functions, I keep it turned down most of the time. The wiring for the amp is 4ga, and is run through the fender and through a grommet under the splash shield. Its well sealed and protected. There is a fused distro block under the hatch to the spare tire well that steps down to 8ga to the amp. The light bars in the trunk are red(drivers side), white (middle) and blue (passenger side). They illuminate the trunk nicely for appearance sake, but they don't provide a lot of REALLY usable light. They're wired in in place of the factory trunk light, which I knocked out with my head the night I removed the factory amp.
Also, the car has cheap aftermarket fog lights, the relay needs to be replaced, and ideally, sealed up. It eats relays every couple months because its just laying under the hood on the drivers side by the firewall. I installed a lit aftermarket switch in the blank that normally houses the foglight switch. My original plan was to upgrade the lights and replace the switch with a factory switch, but never got around to it.
The air filter is a K&N replacement filter, and the oil change was done while doing the seals when the water pump/timing belt were replaced, and I normally changed the syntec every 4-5k, or every spring and fall, whichever came first. I would change the oil in another 2k miles. $3000 as it is, $3300 after the end of June, $4000 now and I'll replace the passenger rear window regulator, both axles, and the windshield, leaving NOTHING needing any kind of work, just smile and drive.
Kenwood KDC-MPV622 mp3 cd player w/ Ipod input cable included.
Front speakers Pioneer dual channel 4x6, wired for additional tweeters, passenger side adhesive gave out and fell on the door and got smashed between the dash and the door, so I removed it. Passenger tweet is still there and connected.
Rear speakers: basic stock type pioneer paper cone speakers driven directly off the headunit.
Sub: one 10" Pioneer, drawing a blank on the model number, was an upper tier "regular" pioneer, a step below the premier line.
Amp: 4 channel Legacy, driving front speakers (new wiring run to the doors), and the sub. I eliminated the factory non-bose amp, and ran 16ga wire from the dash to the rear speakers, and 18ga from the doors to the dash, 16 ga from the trunk to the dash for the front channels. The head unit offers non fading rear pre-outs as well as front pre-outs, both are used. The system as it runs now sounds good, fantastic for metal and rock, sounds good for a hip hop/rap, just don't expect to shake windows for 6 blocks in all directions. The amp has a remote bass boost control, its installed and functions, I keep it turned down most of the time. The wiring for the amp is 4ga, and is run through the fender and through a grommet under the splash shield. Its well sealed and protected. There is a fused distro block under the hatch to the spare tire well that steps down to 8ga to the amp. The light bars in the trunk are red(drivers side), white (middle) and blue (passenger side). They illuminate the trunk nicely for appearance sake, but they don't provide a lot of REALLY usable light. They're wired in in place of the factory trunk light, which I knocked out with my head the night I removed the factory amp.
Also, the car has cheap aftermarket fog lights, the relay needs to be replaced, and ideally, sealed up. It eats relays every couple months because its just laying under the hood on the drivers side by the firewall. I installed a lit aftermarket switch in the blank that normally houses the foglight switch. My original plan was to upgrade the lights and replace the switch with a factory switch, but never got around to it.
The air filter is a K&N replacement filter, and the oil change was done while doing the seals when the water pump/timing belt were replaced, and I normally changed the syntec every 4-5k, or every spring and fall, whichever came first. I would change the oil in another 2k miles. $3000 as it is, $3300 after the end of June, $4000 now and I'll replace the passenger rear window regulator, both axles, and the windshield, leaving NOTHING needing any kind of work, just smile and drive.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ah2002
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
13
03-09-2016 01:42 PM
Ray229Harris
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
10
09-16-2015 08:16 PM