Since Ive had my pacesetter, once in a while, it either wouldnt go into gear, or wouldnt pull out of gear, and it was getting to be really annoying....so I figured out how to fix it.

It was mainly due to heat from the exhaust underneath (since its so close because I have it on the shortest setting). Im assuming, the shifter would heat up so much, that it would flex, which would prevent it from going into gear properly. So in place of my cat, I put back my test-pipe, which emits less heat to begin with, then I wrapped it in header wrap. Strangely enough, now, my shifts ALWAYS go into gear.

 

It's been known for quite a while now that the STS does have clearance issues with the heatshield and cat. Most people either cut, bend, or remove the shield.

BTW, you're killing your syncros in the tranny by using any setting below 50% on the STS. The reason it resists going into gear is because the pivoting leverage of the shifter is completely changed therefore it makes other parts work harder to find the gear. If you care about your tranny, raise the shifter. Just a word of warning.


Dave

 

i have my shifter on the shortest setting and it never has trouble going into gear. but is it still putting a strain on my syncros and the other parts of my tranny?

 

Yeah, it's making your arm work harder by moving the fulcrum up the shift lever. Why is this bad for the synchros?

 

Dave

I've asked several people on the .org, but no one seems to know if there is an easy way to raise the shifter. Mine is at one of the lower settings (I didn't install it myself), and I would like to raise it and save my sychros. How would I go about doing that? Do I have to remove the cat and everything? Thanks!

Ashok

 

and i was ABOUT to get an STS...hmph!

 

hmm... could you say more about this please, I can see what you are saying, but when I installed the STS I had to use more muscle to get the shifter into the gear, if I'm using more muscle, how does that make the synchros work more? just a question, you maybe right, I just need more detailed explanation

thanks in advance

 

related ?.... does anyone know the method to install/remove the STS without removing the cat? I remember someone saying it was possible to go through the top but that you need some deep drive sockets or something.... any info anyone?

 

I put in the STS without ever touching the cat, because it's so rusted on it would be impossible to seperate the cat from the rest of exhaust, what you can do is take the hangers off the exhaust and just push it to the side, it's a pain in the behind but it works, that's how I HAD to do it,
good luck

 

Your arm is working harder, so you're putting more energy into the "system". Where is that energy being applied? At the end of the system, appplying more pressure on the synchros in order to complete the shift faster. The downside to faster shifts is increased wear. Nothings free.

 

My understanding (I could be wrong) is that syncronizers can not spin up fast enough to mesh with the gear therefore your arm leverage forces some of the messing of the gear and syncronizers. This "force" makes for increased wear and tear.

To raise the shifter you'll have to remove the cat and heatshield. I suggest have someone fax you a copy of the Pacesetter instructions.


Dave

 

Maximadriver.com and view the how 2 section there...and they have how to install the STS.

-John

 

Yea i have a STS and have problems usually goin into 3rd gear... I need to put RedLine tranny oil back in because my 120k nissan maintenance drained the tranny and put the regular stuff back in. Since then it's been annoyingly knotchy.

 

If you double clutch and rev match, you should fine, right?
If you're putting in tranny fluid, make sure it's GL-4 and not GL-5
Jae

 

Youre putting the exact same amount of energy into the system. The reason it feels like its harder to shift is because you are applying more force over a shorter distance, but the final product of (FORCE) x (DISTANCE) = (ENERGY) stays exactly the same. With the stock shifter, you are applying less force, but doing it over a larger shifting distance. Sorry to pull out the physics

The only reason I can see the synchros getting messed up is because they may not have time to react to the faster shifts between gears, not because of any more energy is being put in.

 

I agree, the total energy in the system is the same. The time that energy is used to complete the shift is the variable. Short shifts = a higher load per unit time. Long shifts = a lower load.

Let's say you're going to lay on your back and I'm going to place 50 lbs. on your chest. Would you rather I lower it slowly, or give it to you all at once? If we were to repaet this for 15 minutes using each method, would you be more or less sore if I just dumped the weight on you? Same idea with the synchros.

 

right, so it has to do with the amount of time that it takes to apply the same energy to the system.. i agree with you

 

exactly, that's that I thought also, so the conclusion is, the force that's being applied to the tranny is the same,

but

because you are doing it faster, the synchros cannot catch up fast enough to synch the gears, so you're forcing it in...

therefore

not soo good for the tranny but very good for the faster shifts

 

Bah who needs syncros anyways

I always thought my "bad shifts" were due to my syncros already being gone, but it wasnt...as I said in my original post, it was due to heat.

 

Same with me, the dam* cat was rusted on so I had to take the exhaust off its hangers and it work but took forever and it was hard to see.

 

You know I may have to try that becuase every once in awhile mine does that. I also need to flex my sheild out a little more also. Thanks for the insight..

 

Why doesn't anyone get a polyurethane bushing for the shifter rod? I put one on my se-r and it shorted my throws and made finding each gear easier. I've driven some cars with a STS and it is basically the same, but with less effort.

 

can you email me more info about the bushing? The 1st and 2nd gen Altimas.Net members are looking for someone to make them. I've already prototyped a new shifter for them and all it needs now is poly bushing.
Jae

 

I had the same problem with 3rd when I installed my pacesetter STS on the lowest setting. I discovered that the problem was that I was not shifting properly. I was trying to go into 3rd at too big of an angle (i.e. going into 3rd at 1:00 or 2:00 on the clock dial). So, I changed and made certain that when I shifted to third, I was going straight up into 3rd. I have not missed or had a problem with 3rd since then.

This was the reason I used to miss 3rd occasionally when racing before I changed the shifter - the old shifter was just more forgiving.

 

True, i totally agree w/ u. I had to adjust myself to the new settings but it's startin to **** me off now. I was trying to get into 3rd gear last night and freakin had to double clutch half the way to my destination. I think i better go change tranny oil soon. Also new bushings would be good too... btw how much $$ do those run about? I'm guessing labor is the most expensive part... unless it can be done urself fairly easily. thanks

 

Are you shifting straight up to 12:00? I found that I was keeping my elbow too close to my body and shifting on a diagonal. I'm serious. Try grabbing the shifter with your knuckles facing 12:00 and your elbow away from your body so you shift straight up. Works like a charm - and I believe it is the "correct" way to shift.

 

I have my STS set to max shortness and that's how I shift now too. I never have any problems, except sometimes I can't engage reverse. It seems to go into gear halfway. If I let the clutch out, it just grinds.

The only way I've found to make it go in reverse is to put it in 1st, roll forward a few feet, then try again, and it always goes in.