When I drive in a straight line, my steering wheel moves rapidly about an inche to either side, even though when I steady the wheel I don't really feel it and the car drives fine. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? It started a couple of weeks ago but I haven't done anything to the car in at least a year.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Doug

 

You've got a tire problem or a bent rim. Hit anything lately? If not then the tire gets my vote, a belt may have let loose or the tread has seperated.

 

I haven't hit anything that I'm aware of.... you still think it's a tire/rim problem if I can't feel any shaking when my hand's on the wheel? Damn... I just had new tires put on a year ago...

 

What tire do you have on the car. Sounds like a possible out of round tire.

 

try rotating your tires, it wont make the problem go away, but it might lessen the vibration if the bad tire goes to the back of the car

 

Try something simple: Get your rims/tires balanced. Shouldn't cost you more than 40 bucks for all 4 tires. Always start simple and take it from there. . .

 

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys... I will have the wheels checked out as soon as I can get to the shop.

Doug

 

um, my rims were balanced when i got them. Should i get them balanced again? I have the sanme shake thingy.

 

maybe one of the balancing weights fell off.

 

get new rotors or get them resurfaced

 

actually, when i go past 60, my steerig wheel starts vibrating a little. (is it the low profiles. But before 60, its fine.

 

Balance the tires 1st like mentioned before, especially if it gets worse the faster you go. I would doubt if you didnt hit anything it would be anything else, but like also mentioned, the next thing would be to see if rotors need to be turned/replaced. Start simple.

 

Tires can very easily get out of balance. Heavy braking, constant hard acceleration, even hard cornering can easily put your rims/tires out of balance.

If you don't believe me, put a small white chalk mark on your tire right by the valve stem. Drive around for a month and see how far that white chalk mark has moved. Its just not uncommon for the rim to spin inside the tire because they aren't permanently attached together.

 

Check your alignment. My car pulled to one side and the steering wheel would shake and jump around. I had an alignment, no help. Then found out I had a bad bushing in my control. Replaced the arm and everything is tight again

 

if you're tires are all balanced, then you needs new struts. they're only designed for 30,000 miles but people take them way past that that. Once they stop working efficiently premature tire wear takes affect and it causes damage early wear to other things as well, not to mention being unsafe.

 

if you have aftermarket rims, make sure your hubcentric rings are installed

 

Listen there was a thread about this condition that everyone had and no one can figure it out. I have had my tires balanced and balanced and the slight shaking is still present. I am so lost as to what this could be but I am starting to think maybe a wheel bearing? I really and so frustrated over this so I feel your pain. And also it happens with my 18's and my factory wheels so I know it isn't the damn tires.

 

Completely false statement.

Find me just one strut or shock manufacture that will confirm that.

Show me where Nissan or any other auto mfgr. tells you to change them at 30K.

Most struts/shocks come with lifetime warranties.

 

life time warranty means they won't fail and collapse on themselves. does not mean they will last forever. just like brakes have lifetime warranty, but not last forever. You're right, no manufacturer will tell you it needs to be done, but they do where out. The seals begin to wear and leak therefore not damping as much as when new. This creates excessive bounce which wears tires, creates nose diving during braking and increased chance of hyrdroplaning. As I said before most people don't realize the difference at 30K miles since they have drove every mile of it themselves.

check out bilstein's warranty. it only covers workmanship.
http://www.bilstein.com/warranty.html

I can't link to Koni's warranty webpage but I can quote it. Notice "Wear and tear" is not covered.

"KONI BV warrants all new KONI shock absorbers to the original retail purchaser against defects in material and workmanship, excluding mounting rubbers, washers and bushings, when used under normal operating conditions. This will be either by repair or replacement of the defective product. KONI is not liable for costs that exceed the sole obligation as described in the preceding sentence.

Not included, in any case, in the guarantee are deficiencies which arise from or are completely or partly caused by :

• Improper instalment;

• Normal wear and tear;

Or / and shock absorbers that are installed :

• As OE equipment on any vehicle;

• On any vehicle that has been modified for a use other than or in addition to its originally use;

• For any application that is not specified in the KONI literature;

• On any vehicle that has been used off-road, for Racing or for any other driving competition;


For further info on this subject please contact the KONI Importer in your country."

 

Ok, if you are positive its NOT the balance of the tires, go on to the next most inexpensive thing. Check your CV boots, and see if they are broken. Or, sometimes just a plain bad CV joint will cause driveline vibration.

 

^^bump^^

read up and educate yourself. a little long but worth it.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm40130.htm
http://www.carcarecouncil.org/gabriel.htm
http://www.me.dal.ca/~dp_98_7/report/firstreport.htm
http://www.se-r.net/suspension/shock_tech.html
http://www.mx-tech.com/downloads/KYB_shock.pdf
http://www.carverperformance.com/tools.htm
http://popularmechanics.com/automot...cks/print.phtml

30K is an apporximation, but efficient enough. People buying aftermarket stiffer shocks, will have a longer life, mainly because if 20% stiffer they'll last 20% longer(hopefully, weather conditions permitting) until they are no longer effective at dampening the spring. This is assuming, it's a OEM spring. Once spring rates are increased and piston travel is reduced from lowering...all new factors have entered.