what is the diffrence between when the CEL is on, and when it is flashing at me? i have never read, or heard of a CEL flashing... is it worse then the light just being on?

-Chris

 

Check to see if your gas cap is securely on - three or four clicks....I believe the car's manual mentions this.

 

ive always heard when the cel flashes that its more imparative than one that just stays illuminated. either way, id have the codes pulled immediately.

 

well, i just checked them... i should have known what it was. i got 606, which is cly. 3 misfire. so why would it flash at me? it kinda shocked me... i was ready to pull over.

-Chris

 

mine did the same thing due to a #2 misfire. Mine was fuel injector related.

 

Fuel injector or Coil pack.

Usually happens if you are going along and the misfire is happening pretty badly at that moment. The user manual states to turn the car off immediately.

It will also flash if you have your cruise control on and lose traction.

 

If its flashing, you shouldn't be driving, because it is most likely fuel related and can cause further engine problems. I've heard it only comes on when your going above45 mph....

 

flashing CEL means misfire... happened to me... and It'll happen again soon because of a coil pack going bad.... gotta "LOVE" those '99 coil packs... and it comes on at any time the car is misfiring, not just above 45... flashed at me while going 10mph

 

i have gotten my CEL light flashed at me right when i reset my ECU and started the car. I then checked for codes, and got 0505, and then reseted it again. Then when i turned the car back on, it went away. This has happened to me twice, and in the same situation. It has never happened to me while driving.

 

0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

You don't have any of these codes, and the engine smooths out at engine speeds greater than 1000 rpm, so let's assume the problem is with fuel delivery.

I believe one of your fuel injectors is not performing properly. There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.

Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
stethoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.

Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.

Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.

Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a rubber tube.



To Test ignition coil-
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should inditcate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continutiy should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If hte results are not as specifed, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that hte spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.

 

Wow, thank you for your detailed responce kevlo911. i really wish i had a multimeter. i may go buy one just for this.

my car is having alot of problems with ideling, and acceleration. it is mainly when i give it gas, and the rpm go over 3k. i can't slam through the gears to get ahead on a highway, and i can't pass people anymore because as soon as i do, the engine just goes crazy. i have no more power left, and it stinks. i am out of a job, and i do not really have a lot of money to spend... most of my cards are maxed out. (it has been 4 months)

i have suspected it is a fuel injector, but i am also a little wary on my spark plugs, because i know they are not the OEM ones. would that cause a misfire too? i was looking in my chiltons book, and there are like 12 diffrent posiblitys that could cause my problem. it is just too frustrating. and on top of that, i have a problem with the hydrolics for my clutch. i am starting to get tired of maxima's. this is my FORTH MAXIMA, and every one has had atleast one major problem. i love these cars to death, and i have become very knowleadgeable in a lot of areas, but i have had too many problems. may once i get my new jon this month i may sell it. i don't know... hopefully she will be good to me and change my mind.


-Chris

 

chris, i have a meter....probably got 5 of them

 

My gas cap on my 03 wasn't tight enough and the CEL turned on. I closed it and drove around and it disappeared.

 

Change the plugs too. Put some ngk's and reset ECU.