trouble starting max
trouble starting max
hi all, to say teh least im far from car handy, i can understand terminology just fine for the most part but have never done any major work to a vehicle....
my basic problem is the car sometimes has trouble starting, it is fairly random when it happens (IE sometimes after its been running for a little while other times when the engine is cold) it started around January after i had the starter changed, since then, i have had to get a new engine and a new clutch (long story, basically timing chain stretched jumped some gears and bend the valves in 3 cylinders - new clutch was just something the mechanic "noticed" when dissassembling it) so i figured the car would be fine, but today as i was leaving work for my break (car had been sitting for about 3-4 hrs) it took a good 3 tries to get it to catch.
the car will turn over, but will not catch, and it takes usually 3 or 4 tries for me to get it going.
for refrence the car is a 1997 maxima GXE 5spd about 95k (on new/Used engine)
ive read the faq and the TSB thread, but nothing seemed to describe the specific problem i am having, so any direction would be really useful
sorry for being such a
ask me any computer questions and i can help lol
my basic problem is the car sometimes has trouble starting, it is fairly random when it happens (IE sometimes after its been running for a little while other times when the engine is cold) it started around January after i had the starter changed, since then, i have had to get a new engine and a new clutch (long story, basically timing chain stretched jumped some gears and bend the valves in 3 cylinders - new clutch was just something the mechanic "noticed" when dissassembling it) so i figured the car would be fine, but today as i was leaving work for my break (car had been sitting for about 3-4 hrs) it took a good 3 tries to get it to catch.
the car will turn over, but will not catch, and it takes usually 3 or 4 tries for me to get it going.
for refrence the car is a 1997 maxima GXE 5spd about 95k (on new/Used engine)
ive read the faq and the TSB thread, but nothing seemed to describe the specific problem i am having, so any direction would be really useful
sorry for being such a
ask me any computer questions and i can help lol
My Max was actually doing the same thing. it seemed exactly as you say that it wouldnt "catch". After some poking around under my hood I took a gamble and replaced the crankcase sensor. I believe thats what it was called. It had to do with the timing of the car..like when fuel was being sparked durring startup...in which sometimes it would start right away...but then other times i would have to leave it cranking a little more......that fixed it for me....sorry i dont know exactly what it was called....and again i may not know what im talking about...there are a lot more knowledgable poeple on this forum than me....good luck
just an update, i tried to start the max today in my friends parkinglot, it wouldnt catch so i gave it a little gas, it started, and as soon as i took my foot off the accelerator, it immediatly stalled. im taking it back to the mechanic tommorrow morning, but any direction you guys can give me would be really useful.
im going to bump this up because i still need some help, i had the Crankshaft positioning sensor changed, throttlebody sensor changed, and some other work done to it, currently this has cost me 2.2k and im still having the same *edit* problem, the mechanic is now telling me the computer is shot and i need a new one, is that possible?
Originally Posted by Boutros
ive read the faq and the TSB thread, but nothing seemed to describe the specific problem i am having, so any direction would be really useful
thanks for the title.... (did the titlegiver miss this part of the thread?)
(anyways) BUMP
My bro-in-law's 95 had intermittant starting problems as well. Starter cranks engine fine, but sometimes wouldn't "catch". After many visits to the shop, it turns out it was a poor connection of the crank sensor wire to the ECU. They put a little pin in at the connector to the ECU to get a good contact. No trouble after that. They wiggled the wiring harness at various spots to isolate it. Good luck.
I am having the exact same problem as you bud. I changed my Camshaft position sensor, starter is good, battery is new, and alt new, and fuel lines are good. It is probably the fuel pump that is starting to go.
The reason I say it is starting to go, is because your car most likely starts sometimes right away, and sometimes you have to give it some gas to start is up. What you need to do is attach a fuel pressure gage to your car. Dont just check the fuel pressure, since in your case (as in mine) the vehicle will sometimes start right away or after 5-6 tries with gas. What you need to do is check if the fuel pressure drops after you cant start it. If it is really low, like under 30 PSI then you know the fuel pump needs to be replaced. I recommend that you install the gage ASAP, since I waited too long and ended up blowing my started since I cranked it too many times after a month and it burnt out. Now I had to replace the starter, and the fuel pump.
I hate to say this, but if your fuel pump is not the culprit, tyhan you have to take it to the dealer since it is most likely the computer.
Good luck
The reason I say it is starting to go, is because your car most likely starts sometimes right away, and sometimes you have to give it some gas to start is up. What you need to do is attach a fuel pressure gage to your car. Dont just check the fuel pressure, since in your case (as in mine) the vehicle will sometimes start right away or after 5-6 tries with gas. What you need to do is check if the fuel pressure drops after you cant start it. If it is really low, like under 30 PSI then you know the fuel pump needs to be replaced. I recommend that you install the gage ASAP, since I waited too long and ended up blowing my started since I cranked it too many times after a month and it burnt out. Now I had to replace the starter, and the fuel pump.
I hate to say this, but if your fuel pump is not the culprit, tyhan you have to take it to the dealer since it is most likely the computer.
Good luck
I had this same problem... need to crank the engine 3 or 4 times to get it to work regardless the engine temp (cold or hot).
In some other thread i've discussed this problem and i stated that this problem shouldn't be cause by the starter engine and the "bad boy" should be the ignition switch. MY MISTAKE!!!!!!
I went to the nissan shop, and they tested everything and the solution was easy:
1) the starter engine was completely dry up. The grease was completely dry... so they "regreased" the starter engine;
2) the electrical brushes were a little worn up... so they changed the electrical brushes.
The result:
Now the engine starts right after the 2nd turn of the engine.
The 1) part of the problem, caused more "drag" on the starter engine and so, even the engine turned fine, there was not enough compression on the engine because it was turning a little slower than it show be.
The 2) part of the problem (wasn't really a problem at the moment) but i changed the electrical brushes since the starter engine was already "open".
My advice:
1st check the ignition switch;
2nd when trying to start the engine, "force" a little bite the starter engine... keep it cranking for 5 or 6 sec because if it's a problem with the starter engine it might stop turning while u have the key turned
3rd if u don't suspect of any of the above, be prepared for something a little more "complicated" like that sensor that "feels" the engine timming, throtle position sensors and so on.
In some other thread i've discussed this problem and i stated that this problem shouldn't be cause by the starter engine and the "bad boy" should be the ignition switch. MY MISTAKE!!!!!!
I went to the nissan shop, and they tested everything and the solution was easy:
1) the starter engine was completely dry up. The grease was completely dry... so they "regreased" the starter engine;
2) the electrical brushes were a little worn up... so they changed the electrical brushes.
The result:
Now the engine starts right after the 2nd turn of the engine.
The 1) part of the problem, caused more "drag" on the starter engine and so, even the engine turned fine, there was not enough compression on the engine because it was turning a little slower than it show be.
The 2) part of the problem (wasn't really a problem at the moment) but i changed the electrical brushes since the starter engine was already "open".
My advice:
1st check the ignition switch;
2nd when trying to start the engine, "force" a little bite the starter engine... keep it cranking for 5 or 6 sec because if it's a problem with the starter engine it might stop turning while u have the key turned
3rd if u don't suspect of any of the above, be prepared for something a little more "complicated" like that sensor that "feels" the engine timming, throtle position sensors and so on.
Ok, my car is still giving me a lot of trouble at this point the car refuses to start, its been in the shop for 2 weeks now. evidently 3 out of the 6 cylinders fire, its really wierd, its not like 1 bank doesnt fire, but 2 cylinders on one bank fire, the other 2 do not, and 2 cylinders on the top bank fire and one doesnt. the mechanic replaced the computer (at a $600 cost to me...) and it still will not start now
X represents firing cylinders
O represents cylinders that do not fire
OXX - bank 1
OOX - bank 2
He and the other mechanics he has consulted are at a total loss as to why this is happening
he has checked every ground, every wire, for a loose connection or a short but he claims that none are found. if you guys could give me any imput i would appreciate it a great deal, thanks
X represents firing cylinders
O represents cylinders that do not fire
OXX - bank 1
OOX - bank 2
He and the other mechanics he has consulted are at a total loss as to why this is happening
he has checked every ground, every wire, for a loose connection or a short but he claims that none are found. if you guys could give me any imput i would appreciate it a great deal, thanks
Do you get any money back or discount from the mechanic since he is "incapable" of fixing it/doing his job? I'd try different mechanic maybe this one wants to drain you of your money.
I would take it back to the place where they gave you the new engine and have them look at it.
If that mechanic had truely done his job..and checked every possible aspect, you may not find a knowledgeable solution in these forums( b/c even though the guys in these forumes are rather good at knowing about the maxima, most here are just amateur mechanics).
I would take it back to the place where they gave you the new engine and have them look at it.
If that mechanic had truely done his job..and checked every possible aspect, you may not find a knowledgeable solution in these forums( b/c even though the guys in these forumes are rather good at knowing about the maxima, most here are just amateur mechanics).
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BobMax
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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Aug 15, 2015 12:35 PM




