Hey all. It's been a long time since I've posted. Without access to the search function, I gotta post instead of research. I hope this hasn't been asked in the recent past...

Anyway, after several months of rattling coming from my right-front, and a couple trips to the garage without success, the problem is finally bad enough to be diagnosed. One right-front ball joint is indeed bad.

So my questions are as follows: 1) After reviewing my Chilton, it looks like the ball joint cannot be replaced alone and must come with the control arm, correct? 2) If one ball joint is bad, will the other side be failing me in the next year or so? 3) Is this a job that a couple of shade-tree mechanics can do? Any special tools required? The Chilton shows a somewhat hairy repair job.

I will consider tackling the repair if the cost isn't too low from the mechanic. Hell, if I'm going to shell out $400 for repair work, I might as well get some tools out of the process. Or should I run for the hills and let the mechanic do the dirty work? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
TOM

 

Nissan does not seel replacement ball joints. They sell the whole arm.

BUT, the ball joint can be pressed out and replaced by a shop with the right ools. Moog chassis parts makes a joint that works.

 

I had my front left Control Arm replaced and it cost me $350 parts+labor. It wasn't more than a 30min job but then again the use of air tools probably made the job a lot easier. Anyway hope this helped. Oh and don't forget you'll need to get an alignment after.

 

You can rent a ball joint press from an automotive supply store.I rented one from Murrays for a deposit of $100.

 

Thanks for the tip. I dug through Moog's online parts catalog and found the joint, part #K9818. Available at $24 each through a couple of online parts houses. TRW also makes a replacement ball joint, part #104256, same price.

In comparison, the right-hand OEM control arm and ball joint (part #54500-41U02) is running from $145 to $190 each online. So yea, a big savings.

So do these things go in pairs? Will my other ball joint be crapping out on me in the next year or less? If so, I might as well do them both.

Thanks again,
TOM

 

Why is it that I cannot find a competent mechanic? I trusted the guy when he told me it was the ball joint. And after discussing it with him, I let them replace the whole control arm instead of pressing on a new joint. $350 later, it should be fixed, right?

Wrong. Still the popping when I turn the wheel from left to right. Still the rattling when I go over bumps. After picking the car up, I spent a half hour with the mechanic who did the work (but NOT the guy who diagnosed the problem, HE I will be visiting tomorrow.) We put the car on the lift, running with me in it, and I cut the wheel back and forth while he watched what was happening. Now he thinks it's my inner tie rod, and I actually might believe him. The popping sound is definitely not coming from the strut bearing, the sound's deeper inside the engine bay. The 'pop' happens as the steering wheel is turned, but a split-second before the tire & rim actually move. So very quickly, I hear a pop and then the tie rod and steering knuckle move. It's close enough but noticable.

So again, I ask the experts. First, when a ball joint is going bad, what specifically is failing? Should I be able to pull up and down on the joint itself? Or is the play in the joint the actual failure? I looked at the old part and there was definitely some vertical play in the ball. But it wasn't the cause of my problem, and I'd love to see how much play is in the other ball joint, or even a brand-new one from the parts dealer.

Second, if the other mechanic is actually right this time, and it IS my inner tie rod (where it connects to the PS rack), am I basically screwed? I can't even find that information in the Chilton or Haynes manuals, they gloss over the inner tie rod altogether.

Finally, how do you think I should proceed with the mechanic? If the ball joint was actually failing and causing my problem, that's one thing. But it's not fixed, no matter if the joint was failing or not, and I think they should eat the labor on that replacement. I'll cover the part I suppose, IF the joint was bad. They tell me it was, but I need a comparison to make sure.

Sorry for the rant. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Next time I'll do it myself!!!

TOM

 

When one of my ball joints was bad, cornering was kind of erratic. I replaced both my control arms and not only did the control return but the ride became very supple again--that new car feeling!

 

Fortunately it doesn't look like an inner tie-rod or anything to do with the steering rack. I could hear the dollars flying out of my wallet as he talked about it. The rocket scientist's third guess is the swaybar link bushing being bad. It certainly has a little play in it, but enough to give me rattling over bumps and a popping sound when I turn from left to right?? We'll see.

Pain in the a$$. Although, if it IS the swaybar bushing, I would've never guessed it to be the cause. I hope he's right, it's much cheaper than the alternative.

Thanks for the input,
TOM

 

I would think that the end link ball joint itself is more likely to cause popping noise than the bushings. I replaced both of mine because of that noise although you could hear the popping mainly going straight over small bumps in the road. If the joint boot is compromised or if there is free play in the joint, definitely replace them. I think they were only $20 for the pair.

 

The front sway bar end-link was shot. The bushing was loose and was allowing the joint to move up and down, VERY slightly, but enough to make a loud-a$$ pop and clunk. I frankly didn't believe the mechanic and figured he'd be wrong again. The arguing would begin in earnest at that point. But after it was replaced, my clunking and popping was totally gone.

I guess the combination of ball joint AND end-link was my trouble. Yay $400 later. Also, happy news, my flex section is starting to fail since the big exhaust hangar is ruined. So now it's time to shop for a nice new Y-pipe, preferably the quietest available.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, glad to have this finally wrapped up.

TOM