I think my MAF might not be working right... is there anyway to check that it's functioning correctly?

Thanks-

 

Yes, there is.

 

wow very good help there mr x

 

unplug it. If the car runs better it MIGHT be a bad MAFS.
The best way is to compare the signal voltage against the specs in a service manual.
You will need a wiring diagram and a DVOM.

 

Would that mean I would need to buy the FSM? And the car can run without the MAF plugged in?

 

the car wouldn't let u rev over 2000rpm if u don't have ur MAF pluged in, i don't think u could drive very well under that condition..

 

get an multi meater and a manual ... and test it.. very simple,

 

I have a multi meter, what kind of manual would be best? Or is there a place online that would have the proper specs? (I know we had/have an online chiltons)

 

I think the car is supposed to die when you unplug the MAF...

 

Nope...These cars will,just not past 2000rpm. My supra [R.I.P.] would not run with the maf unplugged, my ford van will run just fine with it unplugged.

 

you're welcome

 

Copy from somewhere:
Mass Airflow Sensor malfunction: If the MAF voltage is below the specified value, the ECM senses a mass airflow sensor malfunction. In this case, the throttle position sensor substitutes for the mass airflow sensor. Although the MAF is malfunctioning, it is possible to start the engine and drive. However, engine speed will not rise more than 2400rpm.

Haynes Manual:
Put a DVM probes into MAF pin b (second from left) & gnd
- Ign on, engine stopped 1V
- Idling, temp up 1-1,7V
- 2500 rpm 1.5-2.1V
- Important: linear voltage rise up to 4000rpm.

 

So, if I unplug mine while the car is idling and it dies, the MAF is bad???

 

"So, if I unplug mine while the car is idling and it dies, the MAF is bad???"

Actually no. TPS should take over in ECU safe mode (with maximum 2500rpm).

I think that TPS - the throttle position sensor is bad if that happens. TPS is an evil 90$ intermittent rebellious resistor & zero pos. switch box, replace if you suspect it.

I repaired mine, I do not recommended, I just wanted to see how it works and also to fine tune the original TPS to original resistor specs (1kOhm - 9kOhm). The original was 2.5-11k... Also in the original TPS the 'kick down' does not work how the specs say it should - modified its cam to open at 2/3 throttle open. The engine response is now like dream...

Funny how nissan gives specs and then put some other stuff in. Manufacturing logistics problem at least...

 

"TPS is an evil 90$ intermittent rebellious resistor & zero pos. switch box, replace if you suspect it."

lol.

 

I'd like to laugh at it too. But I'm still fuming for all japanese for that: take one 'stereo potentiometer' and install it in a car, all open to water etc!!!


Would like to find out another solution that does not wear out on each gas pedal movement. Led to LDR and a mirror in the axle? That would be as cheap, and 'never' wear out...

 

actually, that wasn't a japanese invention

 

Maybe so. For me maximaworld was the real ad-venture: Icame, Isaw, Iclicked...
Btw, there is truly no "genuine" parts in cars as the manufacturers buy their parts glob-all-y and from the cheapest source this week...

TSP: almost all other parts, wiring, connectors are shielded better than any other car I am used to (with mil specs connectors), but then this open TPS haystack box spoils the whole ride... Just do not ever wash your engine! (ODD: Original Designers Dream?)