I have a 2000 m/t max. when coming to a stop sometimes, lately most of the time, the thing stalls. I've cleaned the throttle body several times before and every time the problem goes away for 6 months or so. I cleaned the TB about 2 months ago and it's gotten worse as of late. it actually stalled when I had the car parked the other day when the RPM's dropped to zero. other than cleaning the TB, is there anything else I can do to prevent this?

Thanks
Tony

 

check out the fuel cut off TSB, i think its in the stickies portion of the forum. I guess a lot of 5th gen manuals had this problem

 

If your car isn't covered by the Fuel Cut TSB (+1 to above) you might consider the MAF as a common cause of this problem, or a faulty idle air control system (although this usually sets codes.)

 

did you ever have your ignigion coils replaced? If one goes out that will happen... I am getting mine replace tomorrow finally but my car has done that too. Every and I mean every 2000 maxima's coils go out... check out some threads on it... is it throwing any codes?

 

Before spending money on MAF sensor or coils, try cleaning your IAC valve and see if it will does. I had that same problem after I would clean the TB.

 

yea mine did the same thing, but after cleaning the TB out and replacing my MAF mine went away. Check and see if you have thrown any codes, if so see what they match up to.
As 2Kmaxima said above, all 2000 Maxima coils go bad for some reason, check those out too.

 

I have the same problem.
whats a IAC valve? sorry for my ignorance...

is it a tough job to change the MAF? who about cleaning the TB? Im not a mechanic but was able to change my coils on my own with help from a good "how-to" write-up.

 

I've had the coils replaced, about a year ago, so I'm pretty sure that's not it, I guess I'll do the feul cutoff thing, (is that easy to do?..I'll check the stickies). I'ts not thowing codes, and I hope it's not the MAF. I'll chekc the feul cutoff once I get a nice day...

thanks

 

MAF
Its a 15 min job for the non-mechanical inclinied!

 

IAC valve (or solenoid) lets some air into the engine when the throttle is 100% closed (otherwise the engine would get no air and stall.)

 

looked all over the howto section + tsb... is there a write-up on how to change the MAF on 2000 Fed spec?

same for IAC valve... I did go through all the stickies but not sure on how to search on cardomain for more info...

please help --- how to install MAF + how to inspect/change IAC valve.

 

ditto

thanks

 

mine has been doing the low idle thing for a while now...but now it dies on me sometimes...kinda annoying when you're turning a corner and the steering goes out. I hate having to watch the damn idle every time I push in the clutch to see if it's gonna die. Has anyone done the fuel cutoff TSB and did it fix the problem?

 

Funny, I literally just posted about the same thing. I have had my coils replaced and I know that it's not my MAF b/c it runs fine all the way to redline. I also would like to know where the IAC valve is located to I can clean it.
Slivermaxd, I know what you mean about having to be carefull. Worst case for me was going about 50 mph, pushed in the clutch and it died. I had to come to a complete stop w/out the hydrolic brake system to keep from going into an intersection. Fun stuff.

 

if you have the car in gear and pop the clutch while still rolling it will start again....you shouldn't be riding the clutch at 50 mph, keep the car in gear and let the car slow down, downshift if you have to.

 

Thanks for the school session...

I know how to drive. I have been driving cars w/manual transmitions for 8 years. I pushed the clutch in to downshift to slow down and the car shut off. I wasn't riding the clutch. At the time, I was more worried about stopping than re-starting the car b/c I didn't have much room or time to react. Let's try to stay on topic. Thanks

 

you can get your license at 14 in NC?

 

actually, this sounds like a Cam Positioning Sensor or Crank Positioning Sensor problem. Couple of things:

1. Make sure you battery is holding a good charge.
2. Fist check all the leads and wires to both of these sensors
3. After a few times of stalling, the CEL should come on.

My '00 SE 5spd was doing this and it actually was quite dangerous as it left me stranded in some podunk town on a sunday night 80 miles away from home. The nissan techs are *******es, and you need to make sure to INSIST that they check both of these 2 sensors.

 

as for "Pana 69" comments on "popping the clutch" while stalled out, this does not work when cam or crank itself won't move because of a faulty sensor. Tis the price of highly developed ECM systems.

 

maybe I missed it but question regarding iac still not answered where is it and what does it look like? Thanks

 

Yeah,
I am having the same GODDAM problem, It sucks and makes us look stupid at traffic lights when we have to start our cars again and everyone thinks you can't drive stick. Vias malfunctions, faulty coils, stalling problems, I would have bought a Ford if I wanted this B U L L S H # T!!!!!!!!

I do enjoy the car when it's running halfway decent, But come on, nissan should address these problems. This is my first Nissan, could be my last if these problems keep poping up and Nissan continues to ignore them.

 

anyone done the fuel cut-off TSB?

 

I think the question of how to fix this problem has been answered numerous times, and it's almost always the MAF. IF (and that's unlikely) that does not fix the problem then investigate other possible causes. I believe the Fuel Cut TSB called for either replacement or reprogramming of the ECU -- you can take your car to a Nissan dealership and have them "flash" the computer to the current software version. You may be charged an hour or so of labor for this if it' not under warranty (federal emissions MIGHT cover it.)

 

They won't flash the ecu unless they get a CEL light. When I had my fuel cut tsb done it was because I induced the CEL light by shutting the car off while still moving say 10 or 15 mph and leaving it in gear and come to a stop.. I guess this only works on manual transmissions. But don't turn it all the way off, just off from "run". It fools the ECU to think fuel cut. I did this a couple of times and the light came on... I did this while the car was still new. So it wouldn't have cost me anything to bring it to the dealer. If you do this, make sure you won't hit anything.

 

No one ever mentions wiring harness which are prone to damage by bend that goes over the rear of the motor.
Guess what on all the 5th gen stalls I've been diagnosing, its been a Mass Air Flow sensor, or an EGI harness.
Coils don't cause stalls ever, if they did, its a harness.
Its not cam/crank sensor, cause the car would have a crank no start, or excessive crank before starting, once started, would run ok.
As for the fuel cut tsb, engage in gear about 1500rpm in 1st gear at low rpm load, feels as engine stumbles, ecm programming on fed or ca/nlev spec is only covered for 5/60k mi.

 

Nismo, Can the MAF sensor be cleaned?

 

nismo_star: how can I check if its the MAFS or an EGI harness? I know it may sound easy for you if youve done it several times, but it the first car I trying to keep in "mint" condition so I like to be well informed before playing under the hood...

thanks for your help.

 

my car is doing the same thing and when Nissan hooked it up there was no codes but it did say my car was running lean and that there was not enuf air going into the car. He took my filter off and it still was happening so he said a possible leak

 

-air +fuel=rich
+air -fuel=lean
^^^^Isn't it like this

 

this is more problems than i thought our cars had. what is all these sensors and the wiring harness?? WTF is this about, i dont have the loot to check and fix all of these parts!

 

I have a 2001 Pathfinder, but I am having very similar problems. When stopped at red, about once a minute the engine hesitates, RPM drops. Once in awhile, it will stall. Sometimes it will stall at every red light...

Other than that, the car revs and drives perfectly. It's only when I am stopped, and the stalling seems more frequent when car is facing downhill upon stop.

I am praying that it isn't the MAF, but I am not sure where I should go. It did throw a code (fuel too rich), but the person at autozone did not give me the code. I will try to get it from him tomorrow.

I have one question. If it is the MAF (or the IAC, or coil), are any of these covered under warranty? How about Nissan Extended warranty? If any of this is covered, I would like to just bring the car into the dealer, but if it isn't, the local dealers charge $225 to just reset the Check engine light even if you have warranty.

 

I just bought an 01 Anniversary Edition. Drove it for 3 days and then it stalled when I can to a stop facing downhill. I have been driving it since then and every day it has died at idle at some point. It seems to happen after at least a half hour of driving. I know this has been posted everywhere and I have spent the last 2 days reading posts. This is the first instance where I have seen someone else mention the downhill issue.

Also, mine is an auto and it is not throwing any codes, or at least I'm not getting a CEL or any other warning lights.

Thanks!

 

I just saw this.
I am hopeing you got this fixed. Mine turned out to be a failed MAF.

I did buy a MAF for this engine (R50 Pathfinder with VQ35DE). The car's since been rear-ended, and I no loner have it, but I do have a new MAF that I got off ebay (Nissan oem) that I think I still have in my attic...