How often do you guys replace the wheel bearings? Is there any signs that they should be replaced?

 

I was actually going to just post something like this becuase I want to know the same thing. I read a thread not too long agi and it talked about some squeaking going on while moving and that's what I am having. How do you replace them and how hard are they to replace?

 

According to the manual, they seems to be pretty easy to replace (not much more than removing rotors), but you need a LOT of force to press them in, like 3 tons or so. Anyone confirm this?

 

I attempted but i quess a 5 ton press is needed to get out outer race i just replaced inner race and bearings since mine was square i got some play but im gonna bring it to ashop since they got the proper tools

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=374854

FORSALE stuffs that might help....

 

I like how he writes is own disclamer my friend needs to pay attention to that. his firebird fell on him for the 3rd time. jack slipped. good thing drivetrain is removed. i was gonna heat my hub up on my grill but I was out of gas so i set up blocks and lit a fire but to much smoke. not good in city

 

I replaced mine at about 150k. Jack up the wheel and try and move the wheel around, if there is excessive play it could be that. But I also had a worn strut mount and the top of the strut was moving around in there. it was scary.

But replacing it was fairly straight forward. Took apart the suspension down to the hub. I took the hub to a machine shop who took out the old bearings and installed the new ones. they did it for $25. and the new bearings cost maybe $40. I think it was going to cost like $150-$200.



the money grubbing 3rd geners

 

you don't need to take an entire spindle off to operate it with a hydraulic press. not very $$$ effective b/c it costs you more $$$, sweats, and limps. you'll just need to use a wheel bearing adaptive kits to remove/install to get your wheel bearing project done:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

thanks, 1992maxman for the ads. It didn't really took me that long to do mine at all ~30-40mins per side. I got all of the pictures taken from start to finish. If anyone interested, buy it from me & let me know I'll burn 50-100meg of photos on cd. Lots of useful information.

 

Hey, you dont ask "should I replace" wheel bearings. Your friends will command u...

What I mean is that wheels will not drop off suddendly (:not speaking of GM. You have a real bad noise. Typically bearings will last as long as vehicle, if u keep your calipers in condition eg. will not fry the bearings.

 

Replaced mine about 2 am yesterday morning. I really didn't have much trouble doing it. I used about a 1 1/2" or 2" socket and beat the hub out of the spindle. then removed the ***** and cage from the bearing, and took about a 2 1/2" socket and knocked the bearing race out of the spindle. Took a 3-jaw puller and pulled the race off of the hub. To reassemble, take the ***** and cages out of the new bearing and set aside. Set your lockring into place, tap the new bearing as far as you can until it's flush with the spindle. Then take the old bearing race and set it on top of the new bearing. Tap the new bearing the rest of the way in. Remove old bearing race. Set outside lockring into place. Put outside ***** and cage back in new bearing. Put a new seal on the hub and tap it into place. Put ***** and cage on inside of spindle and tap the new race into place. Put a new seal on inside, grease the **** out of it, and you should be done. USE ONLY HI-TEMP WHEEL BEARING GREASE! Standard grease may catch fire.
The big sockets I used are from a 3/4" drive set I have, also used a 2 lb hammer and a soft face dead blow hammer. Used Castrol hi-temp drum and disc brake wheel bearing grease. Not too difficult, just take your time. Hope this helps, good luck.