* Torn CV Boot... probably going to just replace the axle... should i replace both of them or just the passenger side (the side thats torn)

* oil sending unit is leaking.

* dealership said oil pan is leaking, local shop said it was probably the rear header gasket

* knock sensor is bad (throwing code)

* emissions control system (throwing code, but i think it might be the drop resistor mod i did... no truth to it yet)

just wondering how much id be getting myself into fixing all these at one time.

 

cv boot and axle was not cheap for me cause i didn't do it myself.
it was over $300 i believe, yeh not f-in cheap.

knock sensor can be replaced, just get one off of ebay, theres one for $100.

as for the CEL whtever, yeh i also did the drop da resista mod today.
switch setup took forever to come up w/ L bracket and kinda looks getto right now, might replace it later. This also made the CEl to come up for me, just erase it.

 

you are some strain of super noob

 

If you do replace the axle, just do the side that has the CV busted open on it.....then save, and replace the other one when the time is right

all that oil could be coming from the same location, so first check if its the oil sending unit OR rear header gasket, because it probably isn't both

the knock sensor is a ghost code, will pop up along with other problems......so get rid of all other codes and clear your ECU before you go replacing that

doubt an emissions code would be due to a mod on your transmission

 

i dunno why u said that.

 

that paragraph right there

 

lol that was a funny paragraph. neways cvas are like 100 bucks for both 150 the most, oil pressure switch is like 12 dollars

 

If they are telling you the oil leak was from the rear header, its not. Its from the rear valve cover. once again I see this and I'm seeing how frequent of a problem this is in our cars. If the oil leak is on the passengers side and is dripping on the control arm.. its the rear valve cover which is a biatch to get to. On my car it started as a small oil leak and the oil sending unit and oil pan were covered in oil as if they were leaking but in reality it was coming down from above.

Just so you know, they told you it was the "header" aka manifold gasket, they are incorrect, that gasket holds no part dealing with oil. It only makes a seal with the manifold against the block.

 

yea...

the dealership told me it was the oil sending unit and the oil pan that was leaking..

but the shop told me it was the rear valve cover gasket.. (sorry forgot what it was lol)

either way should i check the gasket first and then the sending unit and oil pan?

 

autozone scanned the ecu and 0304 came up.. which i suppose is the knock sensor... i have had a few problems with it starting up.. hard to start ect..

and the emmisions control system if i read right is the evap thingy..

which is what the fstb barley touches? could be wrong but i think i read that somewhere....

and also i think they fixed that under warranty when i had my o2 sensors changed also.. but i could be wrong..

the guy at auto zone told me that the p1445 code he was pulling.. i would have to go to nissan to find out exactly what that was and what would be needed to fix it.

 

Have you ever attended school ?

 

hey tell ya what, why dont you crawl under said car (and look to see where your leak is yourself) then that way you wont get screwed by a mech. and you know whats going on with your car yourself....sounds like your getting or asking everyone else and not doing it yourself...dont trust do yourself...do it right 1st time...have a great day

 

i can't really fit under my car. and i have to jack stands.

and plus i don't know what everything is under there. i could look and tell where oil is. but i couldn't tell you what it was on or anything.

 

^^^ hey get under there, and clean off any residue oil

wait for oil to start dripping again, and take some pics and put them up on here.

 

The problem with the rear valve cover is.. you cant see it.

The intake is in the way so looking back there is almost impossible unless you get under there and follow the leak from underneath.

 

i shall try this..

i have offtime from work tomorrow so ill do it then...

best way to get oil off of something is just wipping it off or should i use something else?

 

throttle body cleaner or brake parts cleaner will do the best job

 

while im at this..

what all is involved in cleaning the TB.. i have to take it off the car correct?

 

To clean the TB you have to take off the intake. Spray some cleaner in there and wipe it down with a soft rag.

 

oh damn, i didn't even notice how bad that paragraph was. the " drop da resista mod"
was on purpose but the rest was unintentional. i guess i was typing too fast and not thinking straight. u be hap now? i mean, u happy now?

 

Another leaky rear VC. Ant is right.

 

Just last week I had both cv joints (axles) replaced. It cost me exactly $440 labor included.

 

I got my right axle and left CV boot replaced for $200. I have ABS.

 

I'm on a roll here.

 

changed axles myself. got the lifetime warranty. saved lots of cash cause the shops here charge rediculous prices for work. i too am going to attempt to change the valve covers this weekend. gotta remove the upper plenum to access the rvc. seems to be where mine is leaking from. it drips on the passenger side. On the drivers side everything stays dry.

 

I hope there was foreplay.

 

ha.. still havn't fixed rear VC gasket..

finally got new axles.. and i replaced my knock sensor..

only code im throwing now is 1008.. evap canister purge volume control valve..

told dealer i needed it.. replaced it and then found out they didn't even give me the right part.. good thing the part i replaced looked terrible anyway.. and plus i didn't pay for it..

does anyone know EXACTLY what the : 1008.. evap canister purge volume control valve. is?

 

You guys got beat, 300- 400 for axles, non vlsd are like 50 bucks, I just got a price for a vlsd axle, $80 lifetime.