Guys I can't deal anymore. 95 SE being a royal pain in the ****. The car has given up on starting. I had a HUGE list of codes and have managed to narrow them down, I still can't get this thing to start properly. OCCASIONALLY it will start after cranking on it forever. So far I have replaced:
Crank Shaft Position Sensors (POS and REF)
Cam Shaft Sensor
Temp sensor
starter
2 new sets of plugs before I realized that the Cam sensor was flooding the crap out of them and gumming them up in a day

So at this pt. I have about $400 wasted.. well not really but I'm still not moving so it seems that way.

I'm getting a 0402, 0803, 1302, and I don't remember but the evap codes. unfortunately there really is no description on the ecu codes link so what gives here. I know that the 0803 and the 1302 are something to do with the MAF/selenoid/absolute pressure whatever deal. the thing i don't get is that the haynes manual says that there is no absolute pressure valve until 96 and thats the code its kicking. Just as far as a general descrip, the motor turns over and sounds as if its goin to fire and then doesn't. It seems to me that I don't have proper spark or fuel or something of that nature. So if anybody can help me please do, right now i have to drive a PURPLE plymoth Breeze, talk about insult to injury!

 

You got a problem with purple cars?

 

check the fuses under the dash for the "starter sig" fuse. its a 7.5 i belive. i WILL give you trouble starting the car

 

Well i don't really have anything against purple cars, but it also has a PINK and teal stripe, not a little one either!

Blackwind: I'll check that out thanks

 

I'm willing to put money on it that it is your ignition switch. I would have to crank my car forever until it struggled to start, and then I replaced the ignition switch. Boom, all starting problems are GONE.

 

Faulty ignition switch was making you crank it for several seconds? My faulty ignition switch was just making the starter not engage at all, then sometimes it would engage perfectly and start.

Im semi - noob, but i ponder your ignition switch suggestion.

 

change ur starter....... and if u bought a after market i heard some about having bad relays check that out

 

starter is new, do you know how I should go about testing the relays? Any other input about the ignition switch?

 

did you check the fuses i mentioned earlier?

 

I am getting on that today, I will update. thanks guys

 

Shouldnt be a bad starter if the car cranks.

Let it crank for a while then pull all the spark plugs and smell inside to see if you smell fuel. I'm sure there's a better way but I cant think of it right now- haha

If you smell fuel in every cylinder then your problem is spark.

You might have a bad ECU. Since you changed all those parts and you're still getting new codes.

Try to get an ECU from a junkyard and see if that makes it better. Or get one of these guys on here to loan you theirs for a few hours.

The start signal fuse is a good thing to check too. But even if you had no start signal the car would start in default mode.

 

I am fearing the ecu may be bad. I don't want to admit it so I'm not going to. It seems like a spark thing, and the plugs do get wet sometimes. The thing that gets me is that the car will start occasionally. but not when it doesn't want to. I've concluded that either the ecu, condensor, or maf must be the prob, i don't know anything else it could be. maybe i'm just way off.

 

did you check the fuse??

 

= purple

 

check if there is power coming to the fuel pump and if you have a spark!!! those are 2 major thing why the car would turn over but wouldnt start

 

battery is the first thing you check if you ever have a starting problem. check your battery.

 

Ok, the battery is good, I have proper fuel pressure, the starter sig fuse is ok. SO I think its a spark issue, the car starts when it wants and runs great when it is running if that helps.

 

check your crank/cam sensors

 

hes already replaced them
i dunno whats wrong with ur car but if it runs nice when it does start then i bet once u figure this out youll have a realy good car

 

I doubt its MAF, as it should start even without a maf (though you couldn't go above 2500 RPM). Check all your spark plug wires, and I think you can get like a $5 kit that hooks onto your spark plug to test it for proper spark (noticed it the other day at Meijer, though I didn't bother picking it up at the time). Also, I'm not sure if timing is adjustable on maxima's, but on my 300zx if you set the timing too high or too low, you can run into these problems as well. Also, did you check your fuel filter? A dirty one could cause some problems.

 

Fuel filter is new, Timing is dead on. Can a MAF work and then not and then work again? I had one time when it started and then wouldn't run worth a crap over 2000 rpm, but once I got it started again it ran ok. How about the condensor? anybody think that might be it?

 

Can you get your hands on an ECU? As a tester, swap ECUs. You can always sell it later on.

I have a hunch its an ECU problem. But in the meantime get your hands on a voltmeter/ohmmeter and test the coolant sensor, the Crank and cam sensors, and whatever else you can see sensor wise.

You should want to do a compression test at this point as well. Just to make sure the engine is ABLE to start and run.

 

I had similar probablem. They changed my knock sensor, they put a new starter and a control Valve or something is called and also the evaporation canister (this also fixed my CEL ) . I got it all done at the dealership for about 600.

 

i need to get this fixed so i can drive it again! I dont know what it will take but its going to the dealer soon

 

try disconnecting your maf, and then if it starts you know its a problem with the maf, replace it and ur good to go, if you disconnect it and it doesnt work then i would consider the ecu.

 

if the problem is the ECU, the dealership will charge you about... $2000.

Go to www.car-part.com and get someone to ship you the proper ECU. It's listed under Computer Box- Non Engine.

Or you can get ripped off

 

Excellent, I didn't know the MAF could be tested in such a manner, I will have to try that and if nothing else i will head out in search of an ECU