so the other day when i was home i met up with my friend kyle(a fellow .org member) anyway i jus got the udp installed and had my new jwt ecu in. I also have a CAI Y-pipe and full exhaust.
Power wise kyle has a hole in his stock intake and a y-pipe and thats it.

Body wise --> i have a urethane skyline body kit and 18's"
he has no body kit and has 17's"

We both have dropped max's

Anyway we decided to have a little race(dont worry know one was around) and we started the raced at about a 40mph roll.
Heres the part that kills me....he won and not only did he win he pulled on me?!?!
We are both auto and i do have a good 70k more miles on my engine. Also i had my friend chris in the car. I was thinking i lost maybe cause i have more weight?!(uknow with the body kit and rims and all) But even with more weight i shouldnt have lost.....Right?

 

hmmm...that sucks - to spend all that money and lose to a relatively stock max. Ouch.

 

Wheels could explain it. If he has 17"s and their fairly light, it will put on a decent advantage against a set of heavy 18"s.

 

18's are heavy, and the body kit also adds weight, or something like your knock sensor could be bad

 

uknow i through a knock sensor code awhile back....i was thinking it could be that. But at the same time I have yet to see the code again since that day.

 

Now that you have the bling, get boosted and race him again. I bet you'll win.

 

ghost code on the knock sensor! Pull the codes from your ecu and see what comes up. Similar situation was happening to me.. and until the engine light came on for another reason i never thought to check it.. but when i did it also pulled the knock sensor code..

 

KS ghost code, meaning the CEL is off but the code came up when you check the ECU, usually means a bad KS. Also very worn spark plugs can set off the KS ghost code, that happened to me. If a KS code was preceeded by another code, its most likely that the first code is the problem. Fixing it should make the KS code go away. 18" wheels, especially if they're not the real expensive light racing wheels, will make your car run slower. Being auto makes it worse.

 

the 18's are enkei RS6's....so there not jus some crappy inexpensive crome rims.
Dr-Max --> believe me i would love to be boosted right now. I'm saveing the money for the Sc right now accually.
Since i might have this ghost code nonsense i guess i'll jus change out the knock sensor. Even if its not bad...changing it will be better then not.

oh yeah and being an auto does suck!

 

Enkei RS6- 23.3 pounds for 18"
Enkei OR52- around 18 pounds for 17", I believe.

Either way, I know for a fact mine are lighter. So that could play a role in me winning as well as you saying that your body kit is well heavier than the stock bumpers. Could be that knock sensor too, if you said it was throwing a code earlier, lol. Oh, chris, he is a good FEW pounds, HAHA!

Anyway, i still thought you woulda ate me alive with those mods over the ones i had. Get that knock sensor fixed and we can go at it again.

 

HAHA i think chris being in the car was the whole reason i lost....i thought my car seemed lower

 

Damn kids street racing.

Take a physics class or 2, and then look back on your questions.

 

... closed street my friend, lets not assume. And please don't act like you have not EVER competed in a street race...

Oh, and im currently passing AP Physics with an A. I think I know a thing or two.

 

Noobie got sand in the coochie?

 

Acceleration = Net Force / Mass

 

.. you figured it out....

 

come on now lets not turn this post into an argument about whos p*ssy is wetter . I started the post knowing that my car was heavier....if i thought that was the only reason i lost i would have not said anything.
oh and to anyone who is gonna bash other .org's esp. friends of mine

 

I probably would have lost to you and most likely to your other friend. My wheels are too damn heavy. I think its around 30lbs with tires, they're the 2k Max 17" alloys. But I might have a chance for being a 5-speeder.

Just for kicks, see if you guys can find one of those weigh station off an interstate somewhere and see if you could weigh both of your cars to find out what the difference is.

 

DR-Max---> hey man its cool, sometimes a lil show for go isn't all to to bad. All depends on what ur doing and where ur going with the car uknow?

 

Take it as you want, but it was a joke, hence my bright yellow a.s.s hiding behind my new blue couch.

Slight outcome factor lies here --->It could be a bad KS or something related, but when racing, taking a few minutes to check codes would or at least should be a routine habit, whether at the track/closed/open road for a friendly race, or on the dyno.

Eliminate all factors before posting then when completely stomped post the question.

Reminds me of the "Posting and you" link . . .

BTW just trying to help out.

 

Well, I'm planning to boost by the end of the year. Just getting the shopping list together right now and going to start hunting for parts.

 

[QUOTE=NmexMAX]Take it as you want, but it was a joke, hence my bright yellow a.s.s hiding behind my new blue couch.

Oh, sorry, I took it wrong. Anyone know for sure how much the kit weighs compared to stock bumpers?

 

just pull the codes, discover your knock sensor is broken, fix it, and get on with your life.

with a working knock sensor, there's no way you should be slower than stock with the mods you claim to have if the wheel weights (yours and his) are that close, regardless of what body kit you have.

if he's 5 speed and you're auto, he should be keeping up solely based on that, but you still should be quicker.

p.s. - this thread sucks.

 

screw that, acc.= my foot+ gas pedal

 

The 96 bumper support beam compared to the 99 is a pretty decent weight difference. But in this case it would cancel out the extra bling on the 96.

Rotational mass = bad for acceleration too. (17" vs 18")

Tell your buddy to check his codes, and also might want to make sure he's running 93+, b/c that JWT ECU likes to advance timing a wee bit much and **** off the ks even in WARM temps ( as opposed to hot).

There was a thread not too long ago about some on here who have JWT ECU don't use it on the street, particularly in warm/hot temps, but rather use the stock ecu, or use an octane booster to compensate.

 

Before on my max i had 6 spoke 2001 maxima rims its so heavy and huge my maxima could not move with them,so i went back to 5 spoke 16" original ones and no problem at accelaration at all.

 

damn i want to weigh my rims to see how heavy they are. how much do stock 15's weigh thats what i had before they seemed to be a bit lighter

 

There some missing factors like:
octane you're using/he's using
vehicle trannies? both 5 speeds/one auto, etc
tune up factor (cleaning the throttle body does miracles for response and acceleration)
Another person in the car does give you a weight disadvantage.

 

-We both are auto, he stated that in the opening post.

-I always use 93 octane, not to sure about him.

-I cleaned my throttle body about 4 months ago, just replaced my spark plugs, and had a fuel induction service done recently.

Comparison: (he is the left, I am the right)
Skyline vs. stock bumpers
18" vs 17" rims
Full exhaust vs my y pipe
JWT ECU vs. my stock ECU
UDP vs. my stock one
CAI vs. my HAI
no rear sets vs. my rear seats
His sub vs. my sub (lol)
Fat Fart vs. my empty pass. seat

 

chris was the reason you lost, i am convinced, thats like 250 unneccesary lbs

 

boost it and i bet you change your mind.

 

this thread is horrible.

And we have a new cyberthug, MSmax96.

So yeah, put the maxima on a diet (read: throw out fat guy) and you'll have a much sportier chance. I hate trying to show my car off to friends, cause it always feels so much slower with them in it But there is no way in hell I'm letting them drive my car

 

well i would hope so!!!!

oh and i use 93 all the time and i jus had an engine tune up the day before