so i opened the bose amps and found....
so i opened the bose amps and found....
all sorts of leakage...so i took the caps out as per the postings i read after doing a nifty little search...was just curious if i can get some feedback about whether or not these things are worth rebuilding
front driver side
front passenger
front driver side
front passenger
I have rebuilt quite a few. It only costs about $10 (or cheaper depending on where you get the caps) to do 2 amps and its well worth it if you want to stay stock. Sometimes they have other problems and you really need to touch up all the solder joints.
Obviously you can get a better sound from aftermarket equipment but it will cost way more. So if you are short on money and just want something to listen to then go ahead and rebuild.
Obviously you can get a better sound from aftermarket equipment but it will cost way more. So if you are short on money and just want something to listen to then go ahead and rebuild.
do these boards look like they're in decent condition? just wondering if these things are toasted...the driver side looks especially bad but then again. i'm a total newbie to this
ok...caps on order from mcm electronics...radio shack doesn't have squat...kinda neat that i can replace the caps with same brand stuff - figured they lasted this long - they can't be that bad.
are there any brand recommendations which'll out perform the stock Nichicon's?
i know this has been posted several times but just in case someone needs it and can't search -
bose front amp list of cap specs and locations
all are 105 degrees
C7 47(mu)F 16V
C8 47(mu)F 16V
C16 1(mu)F 50V
C31 10(mu)F 16V
C110 1(mu)F 50V
C172 1(mu)F 50V
C183 1(mu)F 50V
C203 1(mu)F 50V
this is for one amp - obviously double for both sides...
are there any brand recommendations which'll out perform the stock Nichicon's?
i know this has been posted several times but just in case someone needs it and can't search -
bose front amp list of cap specs and locations
all are 105 degrees
C7 47(mu)F 16V
C8 47(mu)F 16V
C16 1(mu)F 50V
C31 10(mu)F 16V
C110 1(mu)F 50V
C172 1(mu)F 50V
C183 1(mu)F 50V
C203 1(mu)F 50V
this is for one amp - obviously double for both sides...
Originally Posted by subs1000w
i would think these amps would run hotter than 105 degress (unless thats celius) so maybe try to find some cap that are rated at higher temps and maybe theyd last longer
just hoping the chips in the pics above aren't burned...it almost looks like the caps may have spilled out onto the chips...guess i'll find out when the caps come in
if u want BOSE amps, i have 2 door panel amps and speakers, in a couple days they are going out for trash, but if u want them, will sell each speaker and amp for $1 plus shipping, hey i gotta make some money, IM POOR!
date manufacturered

the speakers and amps
date manufacturered

the speakers and amps
Whenever anyone on this board needs capacitors, pm me first. I have tons of them sitting around. Did you order by the part number and they sent you the wrong one? Than give them **** but still use those. 85C should be Okay.
I have my Bose amps sitting with a guy in Florida who specializes in fixing oem stereos, especially Bose. He charges $100 per speaker and has a 3 year warranty. Is it worth it, or should I just get them back and do the work myself? I don;t have any money now anyways. It would be great to be able to do myself. Thanks.
-Mrkanda
-Mrkanda
think of it this way...
the soldering kit cost me about $40
the replacement capacitors cost me about $10
total = $50
so that's a savings of about $50 for the first amp you repair..
every other amp you repair will be a savings of about $90 since you will have already absorbed the cost of the soldering kit.
you can argue the value of the warranty -but he's not going to warranty anything other than the $10 worth of capacitors..and don't forget the cost of shipping these buggers back and forth
heck!! i'll do the repair for a cheese steak and a coke
the soldering kit cost me about $40
the replacement capacitors cost me about $10
total = $50
so that's a savings of about $50 for the first amp you repair..
every other amp you repair will be a savings of about $90 since you will have already absorbed the cost of the soldering kit.
you can argue the value of the warranty -but he's not going to warranty anything other than the $10 worth of capacitors..and don't forget the cost of shipping these buggers back and forth
heck!! i'll do the repair for a cheese steak and a coke
Re: Bose Speakers - '92 Maxima 4DSE -- Recently I resurrected my Maxima after it spent 3 years in the parking garage...Speakers popping, going in/out, blasting...I'm guessing a wiring problem...Any diagram or specs to fix them, or can someone give me an estimate of how much to repair? (kinda off-topic, unable to post new threads, just found this site...) It's so good to be back in the driver's seat of my Grey Ghost.
Hello; newbie in every sense here. Recently bought a '93 SE, and I love it.
But I'm having a bit of a problem with the sound. The right rear stock Bose 6x9 sounds toasted; I'm pretty sure the speaker itself is blown. The left rear sounds generally decent, but there's an intermittent (and light) but aggravating "snap."
Here's the thing, though. I'm:
1) Not an audiophile, nor am I a serious sound tech sort of person. I don't know head from a** when it comes to car audio. I just know there are speaker and/or amp issues in the back of my Maxima, and it's bugging me.
2) Even if I were capable of pulling off a little repair work on my own (zero experience), I've got no time... getting married in a month, with a honeymoon right after, and a trip cross-country to start grad school right after that.
3) I'm poor, for the reasons mentioned above--along with the fact that I just bought a Maxima out of pocket.
SOooo... what's the simplest and cheapest way to get this thing sounding normal again? Shipping the units off to the Bose dude in Florida? Finding aftermarket stuff with the right adapters to interface with the Bose system? Buying used stock speaker/amp units? Cancelling the wedding?
Help is much appreciated. I'm in the SF Bay Area, if anyone's got local tips. THANKS!
But I'm having a bit of a problem with the sound. The right rear stock Bose 6x9 sounds toasted; I'm pretty sure the speaker itself is blown. The left rear sounds generally decent, but there's an intermittent (and light) but aggravating "snap."
Here's the thing, though. I'm:
1) Not an audiophile, nor am I a serious sound tech sort of person. I don't know head from a** when it comes to car audio. I just know there are speaker and/or amp issues in the back of my Maxima, and it's bugging me.
2) Even if I were capable of pulling off a little repair work on my own (zero experience), I've got no time... getting married in a month, with a honeymoon right after, and a trip cross-country to start grad school right after that.
3) I'm poor, for the reasons mentioned above--along with the fact that I just bought a Maxima out of pocket.
SOooo... what's the simplest and cheapest way to get this thing sounding normal again? Shipping the units off to the Bose dude in Florida? Finding aftermarket stuff with the right adapters to interface with the Bose system? Buying used stock speaker/amp units? Cancelling the wedding?
Help is much appreciated. I'm in the SF Bay Area, if anyone's got local tips. THANKS!
lokstah
my head unit went bad and I had crackling and popping in the speakers. two speakers didn't work when a CD played but all speakers worked when the radio played.
I sent my head unit to Johnson Electronics in Boston suburbs, $60 flat rate repair.
Got it back 2 weeks later, not repaired but with my $160 back also. The note said there was too much condensation damage to the printed circit boards to fix. That was a lie. I repair printed circuit boards and I had taken the thing apart and there was no damage. I question the guys ethics, but he did give me my money back.
I bought a head unit on e-bay and all the speakers in my car are fine.
you have to diagnose a bit more or take a chance with your guess.
(former Livermore resident, worked in Hayward)
Happy wedding, but if you don't have money now, you won't have any later.
my head unit went bad and I had crackling and popping in the speakers. two speakers didn't work when a CD played but all speakers worked when the radio played.
I sent my head unit to Johnson Electronics in Boston suburbs, $60 flat rate repair.
Got it back 2 weeks later, not repaired but with my $160 back also. The note said there was too much condensation damage to the printed circit boards to fix. That was a lie. I repair printed circuit boards and I had taken the thing apart and there was no damage. I question the guys ethics, but he did give me my money back.
I bought a head unit on e-bay and all the speakers in my car are fine.
you have to diagnose a bit more or take a chance with your guess.
(former Livermore resident, worked in Hayward)
Happy wedding, but if you don't have money now, you won't have any later.
Thanks for the suggestion. Frankly, I'm not sure what's wrong with the left rear, the one which snaps ever so gently. It could be a HU issue, or an amp issue, or an odd speaker issue.
The right rear unit, however, is pretty obviously just a blown speaker. It sounds like... well, like a blown speaker. I haven't taken a close look, but I'm guessing the cone is fairly thrashed.
If I were to assume the HU was ok, and decided to ignore the right rear snap for now, what would the cheapest, simplest fix for a single blown unit be? Opinions?
The right rear unit, however, is pretty obviously just a blown speaker. It sounds like... well, like a blown speaker. I haven't taken a close look, but I'm guessing the cone is fairly thrashed.
If I were to assume the HU was ok, and decided to ignore the right rear snap for now, what would the cheapest, simplest fix for a single blown unit be? Opinions?
If you can isolate a problem to one speaker, it probably is that speaker. Bose does not use industry standard speakers. Bose speakers are 2 ohm. In our 3rd gen max there is an amplifier attached to each speaker, which can go bad independent of everything else. Also the speaker itself. Go check the junkyards for a speaker/amp unit or try e-bay. I don't know what to say about the snapping, but being in only one speaker, it may be in the speaker/amp unit. Both your problems are in rear speakers and rear speakers get cooked in the sunlight where the fronts don't. If you can find a pair of speaker/amp in a junk yard at a good price, do it.
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