for the 1/4 mile....which would be better for me

a Valvebody Mod

or

a Torque Converter



or could I go with the TC and use the drop resistor mod as a substitution for the VB?

thanks

 

TC without question. TC alone will be worth more. TC and the free drop resistor mod is your best bet.

 

thanks man


BTW....would this setup be better for me than a Technosquare ECU?


thanks

 

get the tc first over the vb, but i would rather get ecu then a tc.

 

I say get the ECU first. Then get the TC. Forget the VB, won't help you in the 1/4 mile.

 

bingo

 

How much do Jeff charge for the TC.

 

Im going with the TS ECU......VB might be my next mod (in the Fall....no $$$)


thanks guys!!!

 

How much is TS???

 

Common sense ...

look what I found

www.technosquareinc.com

 

hi guys, im looking forward about getting a TC, but i dont know a lot about models, or rpm's, i have an auto 99 with bolt ons (cai, catback, udp, wot drop resistor mod).

can you give me a hand giving me orientation about where to buy, and what to buy (model, specs, etc), oh BTW im 1/8 mile oriented. thanks in advance

 

Edge makes custom TCs, a couple guys on this forum have gotten them including grey99max

 

Call and talk to Andre he will tell you what you need based on your mods. Approx $425.

http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/products.htm

 

OT: It's too expensive to call from New Zealand. So what difference will a high-stall give you time wise in the 1/4 mile?

A guy here in NZ claims that it took 0.8 of a second off his 0-100kph (0-62.5mph) time, but does that correspond to your 1/4 Time?

 

I don't have mine installed yet and I don't know of anyone with a 4th Gen Max that has a before and after et.

However .8 sec for 0-60 sounds like a whole bunch, I have heard of guys getting that much in the 1/4 though. I guess the place you are going to make it is in the first part of the 1/4 because thats where it does its stuff, so maybe its not so unlikely. I'm just shooting off the top of my head because I don't have any real hard data. However you are going to need some traction to take advantage of the launch.

 

.8 seconds 0-60? thats about the difference between an auto and 5spd. If this is true and backed by some facts it looks like I won't need to go 5spd after all

 

I'm not meaning to bad mouth the guy I'm just trying to find out more about the subject. The guy in question has also had his VB modded and has a front VLSD and I guess these also must be taken into account...

I wish I was manual (except in gridlock or leaving the traffic lights halfway up a steep hill) I know...OT again Admin, sorry.

 

What is the wot drop resistor mod?

 

I think Jime's correct - the launch and first 1/8 mile is gonna be the big difference, although Andre of Edge says the converter will have less loss throughout. I really like mine (3000 stall), but you're gonna need more traction on the launch than stock - with 255x50x16 DRs and without spraying, my car just leaps on launch, and I know I'll need better tires come racing season.

I've got good baselines from last season using dual-NX spray, but it will be April before tracks open again in the Midwest, so the difference is still a question for me. Launching with spray is lots more abrupt than NA....

The Edge TC makes a real difference, but learning how to use will be a learning experience. Oh, boy! If schedules work out, I'm going to trailer my Max to Maxus 2006 if there is a drag strip available, so maybe I can get some advice from the pros.

13.61 ET 101.9 MPH

 

I have an EdgeRacing Torque Converter from Andre and I love it. His customer service was the BEST!! I remember paying under $400 shipped for mine and I love it! Look at my 60 foot! For a VE Auto that has NO low end power, that's a decent all motor 60'. It shaved .15 in my 60 foot and about 3 tenths in the 1/4 mile. Same traction, same tires, everything.

But a higher stall TC is awesome! I have pics of my install here back when I did it in early 2004.

http://www.iwdwebdesign.com/maxima/tc.htm

 

Aaron, that is some impressive times for a '92 NA automatic... What tires did you use for your post-EDGE runs???

It sounds like Andre knows what he's talking about. I guess the improvements make sense - the torque converter is the only part of the transmission that can slip under power, and they are engineered for smoothness, not performance, I imagine. If I can get even some of the improvements you saw, I'll be a happy camper! Now I really want the tracks to open up again... With the EDGE, my VLSD auto tranny, and the DR mod helping bang gears, I see new PBs in my future. Thanks for the reply and personal experiences.

 

I was only using my BFG Gforce 205/50R15 drag radials on 11lb 15x6 Millenia wheels. I was able to launch without a single chirp of the tires some of the time. You definitely have to heat the drag radials up and they should hold ok without chirping at all. My 2.08 60', I chirped the tires about 3 or 4 times off the line. So it wasn't one of my best launches, but it showed up well in my 60 foot time.

I tried launching while stalling it up and holding the brake until about 2800 or 2900, but I launched it and it spun the drag radials and then bogged a little afterwards. So far, my best launch technique is to stall it to about 1000-1200rpm... just barely enough to raise it off of idle. I feel it's more consistant that way. Launching at 1200 rpm, the car launches very smoothly and the TC instantly flashes to 3000 and doesn't bog. It flashes to 3K and I'm off!

I have a pair of 22" MT slicks I picked up last year. I haven't tried them yet, but I will not have to worry about chirping the tires anymore.

Andre said that raising my brake stall from around 1800 to 2900 will be the most he can raise it and still keep the tranny temps under control around town. Also, he said he could raise the stall higher, but I will lose top end power b/c it starts to get inefficient after that point on most imports. Also, he told me since it's a more efficient converter, it will lock up sooner and easier allowing me to cruise at a slightly lower rpm on the highway. I've found that to be true by only 100-200 rpm. I wrote some numbers down before and after to determine that.

But right now, I'm doing more weight reduction and more 'all motor' modding, so I hope to be able to come much closer to 2.00 60 foots soon.

 

I tried the same thing NA, and that's how it felt, but my 255x50x16 BFG DRs still spun badly at 3000. Since I normally use nitrous on launch, the DRs just won't hold anymore, (probably cold and dirty streets is why) so I'm looking at M&H slicks for next season - probably short 10" slicks.
I do have a good B&M tranny cooler and Mobil 1 for the automatic, so I'm OK there. I didn't really notice any difference while cruising, but I don't have before-numbers for normal driving. The EDGE is different, but really feels better on launch - I'll just have to figure it out for my car.

 

So does the torque converter affect daily driving in the max or is it only when your at WOT. Also does it have any negative affects on the transmission.

 

Try reading the entire thread, it's got some good info as well as the links provided.
www.howstuffworks.com
May offer some more help.

 

Fair question - In my case, if you drive normally, you'll never notice it. When you stick your foot in the throttle, the engine revs to slightly under stall, and yanks the car out from under you. If you power-brake, you can rev to just under stall, but if you release the brake, you're gonna spin tires. Once beyond stall rpms, the tranny acts the same. As far as I know, the torque converter doesn't have any effect on the transmission - just the driver!!

The more I drive it, the more respect I have for the Edge. This thing is a serious piece of work. And yes, this is the first custom converter I have owned.

 

Quit posting all this stuff when it snowing outside, don't wanna hear it. Especially when my converter is all nice and warm in my workshop.

 

doesn't the TC waste more gas since it's higher stall on regular street driving?

 

To quote myself, " Fair question - In my case, if you drive normally, you'll never notice it."

The car seems to move out normally when driving normally. When you stick your foot into it, that's when things change.

 

Is this the only time of the year when the lower 48 can do something the Canadians can't do better ??

Jime, are you coming to Maxus 2006 ??

 

Snow? What's that?

Never snows in Auckland, we rarely get below 50-fahrenheit and at the moment its a very humid 80. Doesn't get too hot here - just humid as.

High-Stall going to cost me $2,600.00NZD ($1,800USD) from AUTO TRANS - the leading automatic transmission tuner in New Zealand

Might be cheaper to get this Andre chap to ship me one over - but would work on a New Zealand new Max?

 

Well, you could ask him - the guy's sharp. D*mn that's expensive... If you do Email him, first get the actual transmission model number off the tranny - he wants to know that, as he should.

Are you coming to Maxus 2006??

 

Thanks heaps bro.

I'd love to come to Maxus 2006 but that would mean I'd have to get fingerprinted and retinal scanned (or is rectal scanned? ) upon entering the US of A. And I always attract the customs guy - must be a guilty conscience over the smuggling of New Zealand Cheese and Wine into the states.

 

The TC will be my next mod. hopefully I can get it before our DC track meet.

 

I've noticed the same thing with my car. If I hold the brake to around 2500 (my stall is at 2800) the car bogs down for about a second and then takes off like a beast. I'm going to use your method next time I have a chance to see if I can get similar results. On a side not, my car has traction control....do you guys run with it on or off. This is the first car I've owned with traction control and I know its beneficial in snowy conditions but I dont know if I should be running with it on at the track.

 

you should definitely turn the (tcs) traction control system off. it cuts the fuel to your motor when the system senses wheel slippage (i.e. burnout, heavy launch) and that's not good for track day

however in snow / heavy rain it can mean the difference between life and death.

 

Traction Control doesn't do anything to the fuel. On a drive-by-wire system, it basically tells the ECU that the wheels are slipping and cuts your throttle. So you're basically at 25% throttle when your foot is maybe.. at 50% (into the pedal) or whatever.

But I do agree, it is NOT good on track days, and it's a good idea to turn it off before going down the ol' 1320.