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Overlapping audio inputs?

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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 08:16 AM
  #1  
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Overlapping audio inputs?

So I'm working on the logistics of installing an aftermarket headunit while retaining the use of my Parrot Bluetooth handsfree kit. A little background:

Installed with stock HU, front and rear speaker outputs (form HU) are spliced and interrupted by Parrot control unit. The Parrot will stop all sound coming from radio and either have ringer or caller's voice come through speakers.

The problem is that with the aftermarket unit, I will be using outboard processors and stuff and splicing into reference equipment is not the best way.

The Parrot unit has a mono output that can be converted to RCA, in addition to an audio mute wire. I was going to just get a HU with an AUX in, but I just found out the unit will NOT automatically switch to AUX when a signal is present.

My newest brain child involves taking the RCA outs from the HU, into the outboard crossover, but with a Y adapter at the crossover so that I can also plug in the Parrot to the same input (actually, 3 Y adapters since the Parrot is mono. One Y at the Parrot RCA to give it a L/R input and then 1 Y adapter for L input into x-over and another Y adapter for the R input). Then hook the audio mute wire to the aftermarket unit. In essence the Parrot audio should be completely off until a call comes in. At this point, the aftermarket HU should mute any sound coming from it (thanks to the audio mute wire) and then the Parrot should play through the amps since it is playing through the same input, but it's audio output is separate from the HU.

Feasibility? Thoughts? This sounds like it will work to me and is probably the cheapest way to achieve what I want ... I think ....
Old Jul 20, 2005 | 08:33 AM
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Sounds logical to say the least.
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Big_Ham
So I'm working on the logistics of installing an aftermarket headunit while retaining the use of my Parrot Bluetooth handsfree kit. A little background:

Installed with stock HU, front and rear speaker outputs (form HU) are spliced and interrupted by Parrot control unit. The Parrot will stop all sound coming from radio and either have ringer or caller's voice come through speakers.

The problem is that with the aftermarket unit, I will be using outboard processors and stuff and splicing into reference equipment is not the best way.

The Parrot unit has a mono output that can be converted to RCA, in addition to an audio mute wire. I was going to just get a HU with an AUX in, but I just found out the unit will NOT automatically switch to AUX when a signal is present.

My newest brain child involves taking the RCA outs from the HU, into the outboard crossover, but with a Y adapter at the crossover so that I can also plug in the Parrot to the same input (actually, 3 Y adapters since the Parrot is mono. One Y at the Parrot RCA to give it a L/R input and then 1 Y adapter for L input into x-over and another Y adapter for the R input). Then hook the audio mute wire to the aftermarket unit. In essence the Parrot audio should be completely off until a call comes in. At this point, the aftermarket HU should mute any sound coming from it (thanks to the audio mute wire) and then the Parrot should play through the amps since it is playing through the same input, but it's audio output is separate from the HU.

Feasibility? Thoughts? This sounds like it will work to me and is probably the cheapest way to achieve what I want ... I think ....
hey genious, where were u tampa guys, didnt see none of ya'll at the meet. anyways talk to u later!!
;'
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 11:51 AM
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You're ghey.






























We don't hang with Orlando guys ....
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 12:27 PM
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Ham thats the same issue I'm going to have once everything gets installed. Can you PM me the details of adding the RCAs to the Parrot Unit and which wires correspond to which RCA? It would be greatly appreciated. If i'm not able to run the signal through my amps I was just going to buy a low powered midrange speaker for the unit to play through.
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 02:09 PM
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if originally you are splicing into the speaker outputs, why dont u keep it the same and splice into the speaker outputs?

if you are going to be using an amp, why dont u just splice wires into the speaker outputs after the amp. Is it necessary to have your phone conversations amped?
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by merovi
if originally you are splicing into the speaker outputs, why dont u keep it the same and splice into the speaker outputs?

if you are going to be using an amp, why dont u just splice wires into the speaker outputs after the amp. Is it necessary to have your phone conversations amped?
No not at all but everything is amplified in my system.
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by merovi
if originally you are splicing into the speaker outputs, why dont u keep it the same and splice into the speaker outputs?

if you are going to be using an amp, why dont u just splice wires into the speaker outputs after the amp. Is it necessary to have your phone conversations amped?
No not at all but everything is amplified in my system. I'd want it done for simplicity purposes. I don't need it amplified but it would be great to have it amped.
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 04:04 PM
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well the way that i amped my interior speakers was i ran the wires from up behind the headunit back to the amp. that way i didn't have to go through the doors. if u did it that way u could just splice all 3 together at the same point and u would just have unamped phone conversations.
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 05:34 PM
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Well, thought #2 was to use the rear speakers for the Parrot (since I won't be using them), but then the sound from them is coming from behind you, kinda ghetto IMHO.

On the parrot, there are 2 green wires, both labeled as Audio Out. One has a + and one has a - on it. You will just take those two wires and solder them into a radio shack Male RCA. Then get a Y adapter to turn it into a L and R.
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by PearlRalizinG2k
hey genious, where were u tampa guys, didnt see none of ya'll at the meet. anyways talk to u later!!
;'
I was there...... Not like the other ghey Tampa people that cried it was too far......
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Big_Ham
Well, thought #2 was to use the rear speakers for the Parrot (since I won't be using them), but then the sound from them is coming from behind you, kinda ghetto IMHO.

On the parrot, there are 2 green wires, both labeled as Audio Out. One has a + and one has a - on it. You will just take those two wires and solder them into a radio shack Male RCA. Then get a Y adapter to turn it into a L and R.
Splain to me what a parrot is. I want to at least be able to follow.....

Thanks
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by filtor1
Splain to me what a parrot is. I want to at least be able to follow.....

Thanks
Parrot = aftermarket bluetooth device for vehicles
Old Jul 21, 2005 | 08:53 PM
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Thanks. I will have to read up.
Old Jul 22, 2005 | 04:41 AM
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Google Parrot CK-3100
Old Jul 24, 2005 | 07:46 PM
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mount a hidden full range speaker in the dash or center console somewhere and have the parrot cut, add relay if necessary, don't know much about it but it could work
Old Jul 28, 2005 | 08:47 AM
  #17  
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Ham, couldn't you just connect the Parrots speaker wires to a LOC and then run the RCAs from the LOC to the Ys at the crossover? Would that work? Of course the way you explained it is very cost effective.
Old Jul 28, 2005 | 08:57 AM
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It aleady has a mono line out. Therefore a LOC isn't necessary, just a Y to run the mono signal to L and R inputs on the xover.
Old Jul 28, 2005 | 10:14 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Big_Ham
It aleady has a mono line out. Therefore a LOC isn't necessary, just a Y to run the mono signal to L and R inputs on the xover.
The way I pictured it was instead of soldering the audio outs to a rca you'd just run the wires to the LOC and use the RCAs from the LOC therefore eliminating the need to solder. Did you get it working by any chance?

BTW I read on the Parrot Support forums that if you run it through the amps there is a possibility that it will be too loud and create echo.
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