shaking/ceramic breaks
shaking/ceramic breaks
my car started shaking yesterday so i took it to the shop today and they told me the shaking is probably because i need a tune up, so i got a tune up done and the shaking is still there.. the mechanic then said that maybe it could be a misfire in one of the cylinders, but this is after i spent all my money on a tune up and brakes so im out of luck till my next paycheck.. could he possibly be right? the car shakes when idle and moving and it feels like a lose a lot of power when accelerating as well as lack of response. I can also feel the steering wheel shake..
Also they did a break job on my front brakes using ceramic pads as well as new front rotors and it feels like i lost a lot of braking power. I have to step on the pedal harder and it goes in deeper just to stop quicker and its still not as good as before.. is this normal for ceramic pads?
Also they did a break job on my front brakes using ceramic pads as well as new front rotors and it feels like i lost a lot of braking power. I have to step on the pedal harder and it goes in deeper just to stop quicker and its still not as good as before.. is this normal for ceramic pads?
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Is your check engine light on?
If so, check it ...
And it's BRAKES, not BREAK
If so, check it ...
And it's BRAKES, not BREAK
I do have a check engine light on but its been on for the past year due to EGR and my shop charges 75$ to read it which is a complete rip off. I was just wondering if the symptoms i described are a possible result of a misfire.. thanks anyway
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Originally Posted by aprentice
I do have a check engine light on but its been on for the past year due to EGR and my shop charges 75$ to read it which is a complete rip off. I was just wondering if the symptoms i described are a possible result of a misfire.. thanks anyway
Pull the stored codes from your ECU. You can do that yourself, read the stickys at the top of this page or cough up the $75 bucks.
The first order of business in repairing your car should have been to pull the codes and fix the problem or problems they point to so the check engine light turns off.
EDIT: Ceramic brake pads do require a bit more pedal pressure to stop the car, but they keep the rotor cleaner because there's less chance of pad transfer which keeps your brakes silky smooth. They also last a very long time and don't dust much at all. Brake fade at higher temps is also reduced. You'll get used to the new feel quickly and you should enjoy nice smooth brakes and clean wheels for a long time.
didn't the shop tell you about bedding in the brakes? You can't just put on new rotors and new pads and expect them to stop like the old ones. you have to break them in... so if you can go to a road with no traffic (and no cops) and get going about 60mph and brake hard without locking up the brakes to about 5mph without coming to a stop! (very important). now do that 5 or 6 times and then drive around to cool the brakes off. That should help the brakes feel better.
to read the codes (don't be lazy just do it!) go to this page
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html
it's easy and it is free. all you need is a screw driver.
to read the codes (don't be lazy just do it!) go to this page
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html
it's easy and it is free. all you need is a screw driver.
i am guessing since u havent checked the codes in a while u developed a misfire due to a possible coil pack.....which isnt part of a tune-up becuase they are like 80 bux a piece and u would know all 6 were replaces by the size of ur bill....but yes u can read ur own codes check the stickies its quite easy
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