My maf blew in my 2003 maxima. Dave b sent me a 2001 maf and that little sensor that i had to take off the 03maf one and put on the 01maf boke while i was trying to gently open the clips up, my luck it broke off right at the sensor in the middle of the thing. to small to soder and nothing to soder it too. What can i do to fix this, Can i buy this thermister anywhere is it a radioshack sensor. I need help please???????

 

sry to hear bout' that ....
this is off topic, i dont know anything bout MAF,
but how do u know if ur MAF is bad, any where to test it out?
i have 76k miles and i havent changed it yet....
and my gas mileage cant be worst...i can hardly go 200 miles with one gas tank, it pisses me offf.
is that cause' of my MAF? should i buy one?
is this one any good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MASS-...36961819QQrdZ1

thanks

 

:

 

Maybe a tune-up might help? Try changing your plugs, air filter, check your tire pressures etc before running out and buying a new MAF. They mostly go bad on 02's and some 03's but far less on the 5th gen's.

 

ive bought one already. its the maf 100%. does anyone know about these glass termistor.

 

i've changed spark plugs like last month, i am currenty using air intake from EBAY , i'll be getting Berk Intake this saturday from another org member.... I check my tire pressure often....
i dont hit on it hard when its cold, most of the time, i get in my car and freez my *** so maxima can worm up lol, but since its good for it i do it every morning before i go to school.
so i drive it warm all the time...
any otherr suggestions?
thanks

 

What's good for it?

 

to warm up ur engine especially in the morning...
not good to drive it while the engine is not warmed up,
and especially drive it hard... when its cold
my bad if u didnt understand me lol

 

Not my belief.

I'm light on it when I first drive off, let it warm while I'm driving it (under light load). Then after 10-15 minutes I'm 'normal' to it.

It takes the oil longer to get to normal operating parameters than the coolant. So just because the gauge is reading in 'normal' range doesn't mean everything else is ready to go.

There are gazillion threads on this subject.

I've been doing this for years.

To each their own.

 

here is pic

 

The only thing I could suggest is try to find a number, or some distinguisable marking on it and try to replace it. That really sucks. Sorry it didn't work out for you.


I tried.

James

 

thers no number on it at all. You were right it is the fix for it dave b said it works good to, but my luck isnt very good, it had to break off at the worst possible spot, not even a little bit of lead showing, if it was i could of modded it with wire or soldered something on it. I found lots of web sites that sell these but there is a thousand different ones, ohms and temp ranges all very, i need to know the specs on the stock one to be able to match it up.

 

bump............

 

You could be sneaky and buy a new one at the stealership and then take the bad one back and say it was broken and that u want your money back.

 

good luck with that. Most Dealers will not accept returned electronics.


James

 

Just trying to understand this, I understand the guts from the 01 maf can go into the 02-03 housing ( saving lots of $$$$), but the "glass thermistor" in the pic looks like a resistor is it not? Also do you have to disconnect this "glass thermistor" itself or the whole plastic piece in the picture? ( sorry not sure what that is or is that the MAF gut part that gets replaced?)

 

You are correct. It is a resistor, but a special one. It changes resistance as the temperature changes. Yes, this is the only part that needs to be taken off of the 2002 maf and transfered to the 2001. The leads coming off the thermistor need to be removed from the little clamps.


James

 

4th thread in the how-to sticky has some details that might help you

 

I checked in the sticky and doesnt tell me where to get an extra IAT thermistor from or what any specs are on it. There must be someone out there that knows this info, whoever gives me the info i will give them my good intake " i have 2 of them" for free its very good condition, just send purolator or fedex to my door and you pay shipping and its yours.

 

Take a closer look at post #30 within that thread... You may give that a try...

 

thread 30 a little useful, but didnt help me out, still dont know which one to order. dave b sent me this.


[IMG][/IMG]

 

Doesn't the graph above give you all you need to know? It shows you the resistance plotted against the range of temperatures. With that and the voltage from the reference table, I'd imagine that's all you need to find an IAT thermistor with the correct working range.

Post up some links of what thermistors you're looking at and maybe we can help ya more.

 

How about not whoring up others' threads and doing a little reading in the Stickies and searching first?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....21#post1173121

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=447467

 

google search "thermistor" lots of differnet sites but none with 25deg c at 3.2 volts or resistance 1.9-2.1 ohms. Iam lost dont know what to do , will the car run without it in? Dont have anymore money to buy another maf 599.99 each for my 2003 canadian. Already spent 200$ getting the one from dave b from the 2001.

 

google search "thermistor" lots of differnet sites but none with 25deg c at 3.2 volts or resistance 1.9-2.1 ohms. Iam lost dont know what to do , will the car run without it in? Dont have anymore money to buy another maf 599.99 each for my 2003 canadian. Already spent 175$"high shipping costs" getting the one from dave b from the 2001 which is usless to me now without the thermistor.

 

It will run without it, but with a CEL

 

Well, the options to consider could be:

1) add a 2.2K Ohm resistor instead and try it out. You can get one from The Source (formerly Radio Shack) or let me know and may be I can find one and mail it to you...

2) get a new or used intake air temp sensor for 2K Maxima, one of the wires on the MAF harness (I could check later which one) is for thermister only and you could tap into it and put the sensor itself somewhere in the engine bay and that way run it. I think the sensor is around $35 new...

3) buy a used MAF locally (check out car-part.com and there are listings for Canada too) and sell the new MAF you got to offset for the cost or keep in case this used one craps out

4) I found this on the web and you would need their 2.2K thermister, see if you can get in touch with them:
http://www.bapihvac.com/CatalogPDFs/...rmistor_3K.pdf

 

Justr another link related to igzy's pdf, they may be able to help?

http://www.bapihvac.com/Thermistor_OutputTables.htm

 

Sorry to go OT, but warming up a car in the morning is a waste. It wastes gas and pollutes the atmosphere more. The BEST way to warm up a car in the cold is simply let it run for 10 seconds or so to get the oil flow going. Then drive it slowly which not only warms up the engine, but also the tranny...etc. My $.02

 

found a replacement thermistor. My instrumentation tech at work called a nissan engieer and he got the thermistor # from him and cross referenced one that will work threw a sensor dealer that will sell to the public... Its only a $1 something each for a matching one.

 

Good deal... Would you mind posting the info? Maybe putting it in a sticky... It may help somebody in the future...

 

DO you still have the number and contact to buy one thru?

 

Great. Let us know how it works out!


James

 

Any updates on this? Some of us are interested to know how this worked out and the specs of the thermistor, where you got it, etc....

 

I know this has been discussed like 100 times already but cannot seem to get the right answer that is helpful to me. I have a maxima 00. recently my car has been running very bad. these are the symptoms

• Loss of TORQUE (Nissan Doesnt pull like it used to)
• Nissan misfires (lean)
• Nissan Sometimes jerks when accelerating or it doesnt move sometimes
• Engine shakes and rattles
• Engine dies when idling (at low rpm's) when cold
• Check Engine Light's on n blinks
• Decreased gas mileage

I took it to the local auto repair shop. first they told me it was the coil problem. charged me like 200 something. it stoped shakin for a while but didnt do any good. i too it the second time n he tol me it was the MAF problem n to get it, it would cost me more than 400 dollars. Can anybody please help me here. i gettin ripped n my cars not workin lik it is suppose to. i also saw ppl mention bout dave's sellin MAF for very reasonble price. (can some one send me the number or something)

 

2000 maf is $89.



James

 

I have a used one for sale...