Im TPS adjusting-stupid
Im TPS adjusting-stupid
I did my share of searching on adjusting the TPS, but I cannot understand it. lol. anyone care to explain in simple terms what to set the multimeter to and I think i read the ohms should be between 500-4k, correct me if im wrong. and whats this thing with the open/close adjusting with the butterfly plate or something. like I said Im TPS adjusting-stupid, so help me out PLEASE!
The resistance of the TPS should read 500 ohms when the throttle plate is closed, and 4k ohms when the throttle plate is wide open.
Let me link you to my thread asking about TPS adjustment, hopefully it will answer your questions.
Actually, I had to use voltage, not resistance...
Here you go: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=379743
so .5 volts closed throttle, 4 volts WOT
Let me link you to my thread asking about TPS adjustment, hopefully it will answer your questions.
Actually, I had to use voltage, not resistance...
Here you go: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=379743
so .5 volts closed throttle, 4 volts WOT
ok, one more thing. I've got this multimeter. Theres 4 options I can use to measure. Theres a DCV, ACV, DCmA, and the ohms sign.
I assume I set it to the Ohms. and then in the Ohms, setup there is the following options I must set it to: 200M, 2M, 200k, 20k, 2k, 200. I assume this are the maximum Ohms the reading will go to, and how accurate it will be. So I should set it to 20k ?
I assume I set it to the Ohms. and then in the Ohms, setup there is the following options I must set it to: 200M, 2M, 200k, 20k, 2k, 200. I assume this are the maximum Ohms the reading will go to, and how accurate it will be. So I should set it to 20k ?
Originally Posted by goldtooth
ok, one more thing. I've got this multimeter. Theres 4 options I can use to measure. Theres a DCV, ACV, DCmA, and the ohms sign.
I assume I set it to the Ohms. and then in the Ohms, setup there is the following options I must set it to: 200M, 2M, 200k, 20k, 2k, 200. I assume this are the maximum Ohms the reading will go to, and how accurate it will be. So I should set it to 20k ?
I assume I set it to the Ohms. and then in the Ohms, setup there is the following options I must set it to: 200M, 2M, 200k, 20k, 2k, 200. I assume this are the maximum Ohms the reading will go to, and how accurate it will be. So I should set it to 20k ?
Either way: If you can figure out a way to measure the resistance, then you put the dial over on the ohms side, and to the 20k. Multimeters should be used like this: If you expect a certain resistance, then put the dial to the first option that is more than your expected value: this will ensure you won't give the multimeter more than it wanted/expected to measure, and it will also give you the most accurate reading. (I hope that makes sense.) You don't unplug the sensor, you measure it while it's still connected.
If you need to use the Voltage, you will turn the dial to the DCV I believe. Yes: direct current.
Back probing, by the way, is sticking a pin into the "gummy" part of the sensor, where the harness connects. You stick two pins in the wires that you are told to test, and then you can hook crocodile clamps onto them.
If you measure the voltage, you'll be using the top left part of the dial, and will set the dial to 20.
If you measure the resistance, you'll be using the bottom right part of the dial and will set the dial to 20k.
If you measure the resistance, you'll be using the bottom right part of the dial and will set the dial to 20k.
Thanks for the help man, i did the voltage way. it was set at .12 at close before i started.... now its at .41 close, and 4.00 open.
then i had to adjust the IACV valve down, cuz idle was tooooo high at 3k RPM, lol. But my idle is still being gay with the rough idle. I checked and cleared codes and stealth code of multiple cylinder misfire was lurking in the ECU. I will soon try a different MAF(I already cleaned mine but no luck).
If not then, a different set of fuel rail and injectors. If all else fails, Im VQ35'ing that beeeyach.
then i had to adjust the IACV valve down, cuz idle was tooooo high at 3k RPM, lol. But my idle is still being gay with the rough idle. I checked and cleared codes and stealth code of multiple cylinder misfire was lurking in the ECU. I will soon try a different MAF(I already cleaned mine but no luck).
If not then, a different set of fuel rail and injectors. If all else fails, Im VQ35'ing that beeeyach.
for 4th gens you adjust it based on Ohms dont forget temp effects ohms, for 5th gen it should be set to .5 volts.
dude i had almost the same problem was so frustrated i wanted to sell the car but here is the trick...for 4th gens set it to 500ohms at close, NOT VOLTS!!! and id recomend not playing with IACV, instead do the idle relearn, just search for it. that fixed all problems for me (but that was 5th gen, althogh the tps is almost the same they work differently)
Originally Posted by goldtooth
Thanks for the help man, i did the voltage way. it was set at .12 at close before i started.... now its at .41 close, and 4.00 open.
then i had to adjust the IACV valve down, cuz idle was tooooo high at 3k RPM, lol. But my idle is still being gay with the rough idle. I checked and cleared codes and stealth code of multiple cylinder misfire was lurking in the ECU. I will soon try a different MAF(I already cleaned mine but no luck).
If not then, a different set of fuel rail and injectors. If all else fails, Im VQ35'ing that beeeyach.
then i had to adjust the IACV valve down, cuz idle was tooooo high at 3k RPM, lol. But my idle is still being gay with the rough idle. I checked and cleared codes and stealth code of multiple cylinder misfire was lurking in the ECU. I will soon try a different MAF(I already cleaned mine but no luck).
If not then, a different set of fuel rail and injectors. If all else fails, Im VQ35'ing that beeeyach.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sake1bs
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
16
Sep 19, 2015 09:32 PM




