damn this thing is hard. i need to remove it in order to get my control arms (i do right??)

problem is i dont have an impact gun. how would i get the axle not to turn so that i can get torque on the 36mm axle nut?

 

put it in reverse, get a 1/2" breaker bar or a hardcore ratchet, throw a 3-4 foot cheater bar on it, and jump.

 

u sure that would work? i guess its worth giving it a shot. iput it in 5th and it still turns. even jammed the brake pedal w/ a club and dang thing still turned.

 

dont jump on anything you might break the breaker bar (like me) and then be in real trouble.... use a blow torch.. it works everytime...lots of pb blaster..

 

I broke the breaker bar too.

 

I took a sturdy bar, and put it across the wheel studs, and put the end of the bar on the top of a jackstand. That kept the wheel from rotating.

Then I took a 20" breaker bar and used my full jack handle as a cheater. Then you set it on the nut so the bar is about parallet to the floor and lift. Some heat and PB blaster in advance can help, but you simply need to get a lot of leverage to overcome the torque.

Dave

 

Use a breaker bar that used a 1in drive, and of course use a socket to fit that one inch drive. You can get one at sears part number # 4443 in the tool section. Go to your local hardware store purchase a lead pipe that fits over the breaker bar, get one that is appox. about 2 to 3 fit long. This will help for you leverage. Use these two items and hopefully you can take off the locking nut. Its gonna take a lot of strength, but it will be a lot easier to take off than just using a little dinky 1/2in drive breaker bar.

 

I'll snap a pic of the rig i used. It worked on the first pull.







That with a jack handle over the end of it did the job.

 

You guys are telling him how you got yours off, but you are not telling him that he doesn't need to take it off in order to replace his control arm.

 

Oh. I dont like to read. Control arm disconnects at the ball joint from the knuckle. Axle can stay in the knuckle.

 

I used my air gun to take mine off, not that matters to him.

 

I disconnected the ball joint to remove the axle instead of disconnecting the strut from the knuckle, not that it matters to him.

 

I'm glad somebody else noticed.

 

I scratched my nuts with my greasy hands while I was trying to get my axle out and it left grease on my shorts, not that it matters to him.

 

I decided not to clean off the half pound of axle grease from my blown CV boot before I did the work. I then decided to do the 2nd day of work in my new nike's. I got grease on my new nike's, but I DIDNT CLEAN THEM BECAUSE IM NOT GHEEEEEY!




















































Not that it matters to him.

 

Get ure azz over here and get my passenger's side axle off this fukking bracket!!! Not that that would matter to him of course.

 

Give me your gixxer and i'll have it done by tomorrow night. Not that it matters to him.

 

u guys are so teh funny..


lots of good advice too..

 

I didn't touch my axle to drop the control arm.

Why are you dropping it anyway? This thread = teh vague.

 

I steped really hard on the breaker bar I had and it worked (my neighhood taught me) -> mechanic

 

I thought you had to take the steering knuckle off to get to the balljoint and remove it? How did you guys do it w/o removing it?

 

Not that it matters to him, but this is how I got my driverside axle nut off. Put a sturdy bar in between the lugs so that the bar gets "pinned" to the grough, keeping the hub still as you torque it.

 

An open-ended wrench can remove the nut with the axle in place, but since it's not a small nut it's not always easy.

As well, depending on what tool you have for releasing the balljoint from the knuckle, you may need the axle out of the way. If the balljoint has never been removed from the knuckle it can be quite difficult.

As usual, the people from the salt-free states think he's doing it 'wrong'. When you live in a salt-belt state things often work out a little differently.

Dave

 

I'm suprised you were able to use a socket wrench on that nut - when I had a cheater bar over my socket wrench, it broke, and I smacked my forehead on my fender. That was a wonderful start to the project.

 

Lot's of salt around here, but I didn't take the axle nut off to replace the control arm. on the balljoint being a b!tch to get out of there.

 

Werd... I actually broke my ball joint, but i had new ones in the mail anyway so it didnt matter. Salt is my worst enemy. I can't remove anything from my car with minimal effort.

 

Story of my life man...

 

my axle nut was actually the reason (excuse) I went out and bought a compressor and heavy duty impact wrench... after breaking 2 1/2" ratchets and 1 1/2" breaker bar and one socket.

even though we have established that you don't need to take the axle out to get the control arm off, cant you either pop the center cap off from the stock 16" 5 spoke or use the spare tire? I don't remember which I used but I remember the tire was on the car and the car was on the ground which gave me plenty of grip. you might need a 1-2" extension though... it has been a while (thankfully) since I have had to take the axles off.

 

...not that it matters to him

 

Yes. You can fit the spare and then drop the car. This is how I did it with no assistant to step on the brakes.

 

this was the only reason why i assumed you needed to remove the axle nut:

http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/348507/15

it looked like u didnt need to take apart the axle nut if u had a crescent wrench. so much for me trying to follow others ppl's directions.

not that it matters to u guys ...lol

 

hehe we started a mini-catchphrase.

You should always be trying to do the LEAST amount of work..... Sure you could disassemble the knuckle, remove the strut, take off the LCA, remove the sway bar, take out tie rod, and sand/media blast and powdercoat it all, but when all you are trying to do is replace your brake pads, its a little bit overkill