Monday I drop off the Max for which started as a CV-Assembly replace, now I have a CEL on & car is running like crap, If I have to replace injectors which I strongly think I will, 94 GXE 128,000Mi, who has the best prices on these things?

 

junk yard.

 

i have a few good vg fuel rails

 

The junk yard is not an option for me, that is like playing roulette, I believe in doing a job right the first time, especially if I am paying for it!

 

Are you sure they didn't screw up something during the CV joint work? I usually spend some time fixing things on the car that were screwed up by outside shops. (Hard to find someone who can turn a wrench in this town). Perhaps they disconnected something like the O2 sensor plug?

 

well you'll be paying $600 just for the injectors then. do this stuff yourself man, that's going to cost you a grand probably for the entire job. i'm all for putting brand new injectors in, but only if you plan on keeping the car for years to come.

 

Get them from internetautomart they were cheaper through him than any local places in my area. Plus he has O rings too.

 

It is worth puttin in new injectors cause I plan on drivin the Max till time relegates her to a rust heap, right now she has absolutely no rust at all, both engine & tranny are super clean also, the old guy who I bought her from kept her Dealer Serviced, & garaged, she looks just like new, inside & out, I was extreemely lucky to come across this rare find!!!

 

with 128K what makes you think you need injectors? Id just get new ones (when you do need them anyway), when it dies you can always sell them later. My original injectors lasted 150K.

~Alex

 

sounds about the right mileage to me.
that's what my first VE was at when it got 7 injectors.
this one got 3 @ 137k


O.P. - Whatever you do don't buy remans. I've talked to the rebuilders, and they ALL say that over 90% of the cores they receive to rebuild are thrown away because they can't be rebuilt, and the small percentage that does meet spec, doesn't last very long.
That's the only reason I don't sell rebuilts. I'd rather go used

 

I'm bringing her in tommorrow morning, for the CV axle, & have the CEL diagnosed, I just know it's the injectors.....feels like it's runnin on 5 cylinders, + I just replaced the Plugs, wires, cap, & rotor, + fuel filter, cleaned out the throtle body, & had injectors cleaned....what more can I do??? Time for the ASE dude to diagnose.....

 

mine did that and a couplke of my plugs that go to the injectors were a lil rotted i wiggled the plug and it ran fine so i went to the salvage yard got some good plugs and solderied them on

 

wow, 7 cylinders? rare find.

 

who said 7 cylinders?
I only changed injectors on 5 cylinders

 

~Alex

 

why did it get 7 injectors then?

 

I bought remans originally

 

http://deatschwerks.com/

 

I didn't see injectors available for vg's or ve's unless you are supposed to use the vg30dett ones.

Also, does anyone know what duty cycle percentage our injectors run stock?

 

they're the same as the early VQ and the KA injectors.
just email them and tell them you need some stock replacements and ask for a quote. they'll tell you what you can get.

 

And they are still rebuilts so stay the heck away from them.

 

My 94 SE has 215K and I have not changed the injectors but it is running fine! But now you guys got me thinking!
I was thinking about rebuilding my engine because I had the car for over 7 years and I plan on keeping it another 7 years but my mechanic told me I was crazy to rebuild it because the is nothing wrong with the motor!
My only problem is my struts, gotta get those soon!

Also I heard that the BMW 3 series headlight fit into the max and I was wondering what year 3 series should I look for?

 

is there a way to test for bad connectors other than the "wiggle test"?

did you suggest any kind of dielectric as well?

 

yeah use an ohm meter lol!

do a continuity test, find if the leads are properly connected, test a lead with one probe, and with the other prob touch the grounded or negative terminal. See if you get a no resistance reading.

Do the same with the other lead but try the positive terminal instead.

 

just a quick update...i cleaned up all of the crud at the injector connectors and applied some dielectric generously. a world of difference!!!!!!

 

i just pulled mine apart because my timing belt slipped and i had broken exhaust studs i couldnt get to. block had original cross hatch pattern still and valves were tight as could be. got a miss right now tho and its running bad, but it was doing this before the tear down and before the slip. i think its an injector and thats the next place im lookin. ive got 219k.

if you feel a need to do somethin, be sure your cam seals and crank seals are good (mine werent, hence slip and shredded timing belt). people tell me to ditch it. im replacing stuff till its as good as i remember and ill drive it for a few more years trouble free.

E36 headlights work. there are posts on that. look for em