hesitation at 3k-3100rpms
hesitation at 3k-3100rpms
im an auto, and realized when im about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle with OD off, there's a slight hesitation for about a second when accelerating... is this due to any sensors or something?? im lost...
i have no codes, ypipe, sp2, and short ram intake. any help would be appreciated.
thanks
i have no codes, ypipe, sp2, and short ram intake. any help would be appreciated.
thanks
It happens to me too. it Lags for a sec or two before shifting again. I have used seafoam for Gas and Seafoam Tune and afterwards Flushed. Also changed intake temp Sensor and changed PCV value which helped in other case but not this. I don't have any codes I have a few Mods.
1.WS y-pipe
2.Greddy SP1 catback
3.Short ram Intake
4. Installed a now 29k Motor (not rebuilt original Miles)
5. 65K trans
I did Notice before I can switch to O/D Off and I use to get a pick up in spped at WOT but now it does not seem to be working anymore has this happen to any1?
1.WS y-pipe
2.Greddy SP1 catback
3.Short ram Intake
4. Installed a now 29k Motor (not rebuilt original Miles)
5. 65K trans
I did Notice before I can switch to O/D Off and I use to get a pick up in spped at WOT but now it does not seem to be working anymore has this happen to any1?
I noticed this when I got my first hybrid intake. I posted about it and apparently its normal. Sorry, don't remember specifics on why and what have you but thought I'd offer some piece of mind that nothings "wrong" with your car. Im auto as well. Im sure someone might have the techie lingo on it.
Capitone
Capitone
Originally Posted by Capitone
I noticed this when I got my first hybrid intake. I posted about it and apparently its normal. Sorry, don't remember specifics on why and what have you but thought I'd offer some piece of mind that nothings "wrong" with your car. Im auto as well. Im sure someone might have the techie lingo on it.
Capitone
Capitone
Yeah I heard that it is normal and thats why I haven't stressed myself researching it. Its that 2 to 3sec Lag that Sucks because at that time if I was Racing from a Stand Point the other Car would have at least a car and half length on me. Probably just need to get a JWT ECU or a Technosquare ECU to adjust that or a Greddy Utlimate Unit.
i might have the same problem, i notice if im in 2nd and put my foot down it kinda like hiccups a bit at around 3-3.1K, then continues accelerating fine. I have a 98 5MT. My 98 auto does not do that.
Originally Posted by 96blkonblkse
i might have the same problem, i notice if im in 2nd and put my foot down it kinda like hiccups a bit at around 3-3.1K, then continues accelerating fine. I have a 98 5MT. My 98 auto does not do that.
And to whoever said only 99's have coilpacks. Wow...your wrong.
i wish some one has an answer cause mines does the exact same, maybe worst, sometimes my RPM goes too high before it changes and doesnt have the umph it use to and i sont have an ECU upgrade. sometimes on the highway when i step on it , my speed builds up very slowly, still not having the umph, sometimes i dont even know if mines switched gears.
Originally Posted by Grand_hustle17
i wish some one has an answer cause mines does the exact same, maybe worst, sometimes my RPM goes too high before it changes and doesnt have the umph it use to and i sont have an ECU upgrade. sometimes on the highway when i step on it , my speed builds up very slowly, still not having the umph, sometimes i dont even know if mines switched gears.
Oh and fix your grammar man. Damn!!
recently did tranny flush.... do all you guys who have the problem have aftermarket intakes?? i think this might be our prob. if we can manage to figure this much out, ill toy around w the intake and see wut happens
it's the MAF Sensor my car has the same thing and MAF is the only thing I haven't cleaned (I plan to do it this saturday) plus, like the PCV valve the fact that is dirty is not enough grounds for it to throw a code so I'd check that as well (EGR will when the small tube is clogged & spark plugs & coilpacks will throw a misfire code if they stop working) I dunno what fluid can be used to clean it out, TB cleaner would work?
PM me info on those rims, they look sick, me WANT!
PM me info on those rims, they look sick, me WANT!
Originally Posted by Dexter
it's the MAF Sensor my car has the same thing and MAF is the only thing I haven't cleaned (I plan to do it this saturday) plus, like the PCV valve the fact that is dirty is not enough grounds for it to throw a code so I'd check that as well (EGR will when the small tube is clogged & spark plugs & coilpacks will throw a misfire code if they stop working) I dunno what fluid can be used to clean it out, TB cleaner would work?
PM me info on those rims, they look sick, me WANT!
PM me info on those rims, they look sick, me WANT!
Only use MAF Sensor cleaner made by CRC. nothin else. now available at Pepboys, so maybe other places too.
I believe it may be your timing, "NO!! Not the your vechile's timing!" I mean when u decide to step on the throttle. when the auto is in the middle of switching into a higher gear and when u step the pedal to the floor, the computer has to make the auto tranny get out of gear and downshift into a lower gear, causing a slight delay.
I get mine while accelerating...the pedal will be held down slightly and the needle climbs and then gets hung up where everyone else is saying it happens to them. Its in the same gear, not between dhifts. It feels like its trying to shift.
Originally Posted by GStrength
I believe it may be your timing, "NO!! Not the your vechile's timing!" I mean when u decide to step on the throttle. when the auto is in the middle of switching into a higher gear and when u step the pedal to the floor, the computer has to make the auto tranny get out of gear and downshift into a lower gear, causing a slight delay.
Wow, I have never seen so many un-informed random guesses in one post. Do everyone a favor and dont just call out random things you've heard others suggest, if you dont know, just say so. Does anyone actually know HOW a torque converter works? A T/C is basically similar to a turbocharger (input-output rotors linked in a turbine) with fluid in it. When you hit the gas the turbine starts to spin and transfers power back through the transmission to the wheels. However, if it spun without stalling, we would all be stuck in first gear. Hence the specification known as STALL SPEED. Our stock T/C happen to stall at a low approx. 3.2k with O/D off. This is tuned at the factory for optimum results in a bone-stock setup. A lot of guys want to jump into performance mods, but aren't aware that if you change one thing you'll have to change another, and another, until your entire platform is changed and then you have to tune. If you put in intake, exhaust, pulley, ecu mods and you're running an unmodded A/T... welcome to the world of slipping transmissions. VB w/cooler, and T/C are going to be very important to keep your tranny from crapping out under the increased performance load. Oh and if you got your ecu before finishing your mechanics, you may have to get a re-program for things such as higher stall torque converters. A good rule of thumb is to get your ecu last.
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