car cuts off when place in drive
car cuts off when place in drive
Hey I went to the track the other day and now when I start the car it's fine but when I put it in drive it cuts off. if I let it warm up for a few minutes then put it into drive the rpms drop below 6rpm and stumbles like it's going to cut off
I did not get a chance to check everything out yet since I have a 2nd car but I'll do it this weekend but still wanted to get some ideas of what might but going on
the tranny did over heat at the track and was shifting alittle funny on the ride home, do you think the tranny could be causing this problem ..
I did not get a chance to check everything out yet since I have a 2nd car but I'll do it this weekend but still wanted to get some ideas of what might but going on
the tranny did over heat at the track and was shifting alittle funny on the ride home, do you think the tranny could be causing this problem ..
be careful changing the fluid. if its dark red and/or you see metal shavings in it STOP. then top it off with a little bit that u drained. this is because that indicates that your tranny has overheated badly and is shot. changing the fluid will just make things worse.
edit- actually you know what...i forgot the car was just stalling out and not driveable. so i guess you could try changing the fluid...but check the codes first, and if they are not tranny related than i would be careful with the fluid change. and post the codes when you get them
edit- actually you know what...i forgot the car was just stalling out and not driveable. so i guess you could try changing the fluid...but check the codes first, and if they are not tranny related than i would be careful with the fluid change. and post the codes when you get them
When I raced my car at the track(back when it used to be auto) I had the same problem. I took it in for a tranny flush at the dealer and they told me that it did that because it was over heated. they did a full flush and it had the same problem for a few days after that, but it gradually started to get better. after a couple weeks, I never noticed it do it again.
No guarantees that that is what the problem is with yours.
No guarantees that that is what the problem is with yours.
I went pass a tranny shop today on the way home and he said the same thing
1. check the code of the fluid to see if it's burned or silverist
2. check for codes
3. bring it in and they will check it out
4. rebuild the tranny with a vb job and 2400-2500 stall speed convertor with a fan on the tranny cooler for 1500.00
5. buy a i30 lsd tranny and beef it up with a vb job and swap it
so I checked the fluid looks fine but alittle low, does tranny fluid get hot and burn off
I'll check for codes later tonight, but I am thinking it's the tc or some psi switch/niod thing in the tranny
1. check the code of the fluid to see if it's burned or silverist
2. check for codes
3. bring it in and they will check it out
4. rebuild the tranny with a vb job and 2400-2500 stall speed convertor with a fan on the tranny cooler for 1500.00
5. buy a i30 lsd tranny and beef it up with a vb job and swap it
so I checked the fluid looks fine but alittle low, does tranny fluid get hot and burn off
I'll check for codes later tonight, but I am thinking it's the tc or some psi switch/niod thing in the tranny
well I checked the fluid from the dipdstick and it looks fine, I am going to take off the tranny line and drain alittle fluid and check yhat next
btw the car has been driving fine today so far
btw the car has been driving fine today so far
Originally Posted by t6378tp
I went pass a tranny shop today on the way home and he said the same thing
1. check the code of the fluid to see if it's burned or silverist
2. check for codes
3. bring it in and they will check it out
4. rebuild the tranny with a vb job and 2400-2500 stall speed convertor with a fan on the tranny cooler for 1500.00
5. buy a i30 lsd tranny and beef it up with a vb job and swap it
so I checked the fluid looks fine but alittle low, does tranny fluid get hot and burn off
I'll check for codes later tonight, but I am thinking it's the tc or some psi switch/niod thing in the tranny
1. check the code of the fluid to see if it's burned or silverist
2. check for codes
3. bring it in and they will check it out
4. rebuild the tranny with a vb job and 2400-2500 stall speed convertor with a fan on the tranny cooler for 1500.00
5. buy a i30 lsd tranny and beef it up with a vb job and swap it
so I checked the fluid looks fine but alittle low, does tranny fluid get hot and burn off
I'll check for codes later tonight, but I am thinking it's the tc or some psi switch/niod thing in the tranny
Which shop is this?
You put shift leaver from P o D and car shutoff immediatly !!!
It happened with my car when immediatly after I brought it, scared the hell out of me, Turned out MAF ground was bad,
If possible trying putting external ground to maf or change maf sensor.
It happened with my car when immediatly after I brought it, scared the hell out of me, Turned out MAF ground was bad,
If possible trying putting external ground to maf or change maf sensor.
Originally Posted by nitink
You put shift leaver from P o D and car shutoff immediatly !!!
It happened with my car when immediatly after I brought it, scared the hell out of me, Turned out MAF ground was bad,
If possible trying putting external ground to maf or change maf sensor.
It happened with my car when immediatly after I brought it, scared the hell out of me, Turned out MAF ground was bad,
If possible trying putting external ground to maf or change maf sensor.
I am starting to think it maybe the tps but I'll also check the maf
Originally Posted by papo99
i have the same problem but mine turns off in gear my friend check codes and came up with knock sensor and camshaft position sensor
I will pull the codes tomorrow or weds, cause now the the elbow in the sink is leaking ...
Glad to be of service
Originally Posted by t6378tp
ok so I pulled the codes and got the following tranny codes
504=Automatic Transmission Control Unit Signal to ECU
1104=Improper Shifting to Second Gear (Automatic Transmission
1203=Overrun clutch solenoid valve (Automatic Transmission)
1205=Line Pressure Solenoid Valve (Automatic Transmission)
I am unable to pull up all the codes does anyone know what they mean
504=Automatic Transmission Control Unit Signal to ECU
1104=Improper Shifting to Second Gear (Automatic Transmission
1203=Overrun clutch solenoid valve (Automatic Transmission)
1205=Line Pressure Solenoid Valve (Automatic Transmission)
I am unable to pull up all the codes does anyone know what they mean
I ran my auto pretty hard back to back now I have a harsh shift to 2nd.
I have almost the same problem as you. Occasionally when I switch to reverse or to drive from reverse I stall. My cel came on the other day so I got the codes pulled and I got 2 02 sensors and an egr valve. So im hoping its the 02 sensors thats causing it. I doubt it is the 02s but when I went to meineke one time there was a guy with a 4th gen max who always stalled when he came to a stop and it turned out to be his 02 causing it, so maybe when I replace them itll fix it?
Originally Posted by '96 B-rad
I have almost the same problem as you. Occasionally when I switch to reverse or to drive from reverse I stall. My cel came on the other day so I got the codes pulled and I got 2 02 sensors and an egr valve. So im hoping its the 02 sensors thats causing it. I doubt it is the 02s but when I went to meineke one time there was a guy with a 4th gen max who always stalled when he came to a stop and it turned out to be his 02 causing it, so maybe when I replace them itll fix it?
also I plan to check all my connections and drive the car for 100 miles then pulls the codes again to see what I get
well I checked and no tranny codes, next will check for engine codes and clean the maf and test the tps
btw the car has been running fine later but I would still like to know what was wrong
btw the car has been running fine later but I would still like to know what was wrong
I just purchased an 97 i30 auto 113k miles and did the following so far: Had cel on for the #4 coil pack replaced it, new NGK plat plugs, cv axle, air cleaner, oil change, new starter (cleaned TB when doing the starter). The car has a lot of power, but notice that when the car is in D or R..or sometimes sitting at a stop the engine is stumbling or hesitating..scares the crap out of me thinking it will die. Sounds very similair to this post..not sure though, any help would greatly be appreciated!...so far I only had one cel code after the #4 coil pack was replaced and that was P0400 after I cleaned the TB, but I cleared it and that code has not came back after a week now and don't think this hesitation is related?
OK dude ... don't newbie-jack someone's thread. Sounds like a coolant temp sensor problem to me 1997i30. Try contributing a little to the forum, researching, or donating like the most of us.
I donated 20 bucks like 3-4 years ago maybe more. Let's do the math .... 20/ (3*12 [months]) = 20/36 = 10/18 = 5/9. So I have had to take 5/9ths of a dollar over 3 years to pay off this massive investment.
Donating is worth it!
I donated 20 bucks like 3-4 years ago maybe more. Let's do the math .... 20/ (3*12 [months]) = 20/36 = 10/18 = 5/9. So I have had to take 5/9ths of a dollar over 3 years to pay off this massive investment.
Donating is worth it!
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