fuel injection cleaner
sea foam
my car tends to start shaking when at a long stop/idling and the rpm drops below the 500rpm mark then shuts off due to the low rpm. im guessing it's choking and something is wrong with the fuel system? im planing on getting fuel injection cleaner or the complete fuel system cleaner by valvoline. do you think it will help? and does the gas tank have to be about 1/4 left or almost empty for it to work effectively? thanks.
Originally Posted by blimblam
119,900 nearing 120k. year is 1996. i mean do i add i pour it in at around 1/4 left or less then pour another tank of gas. and do you think it will fix the problem?
you should buy a carburetor cleaner and then open up till u get to your throttle body and clean it. Theres massive amounts of oil and dirt build up in there and cause ur car to shake and stall. there is a writeup link in the Maintenance section of the 4th gens.
theres two pages. on the bottom of the first page im giving you, theres a link to the second. Enjoy and tell me how it comes out.
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517
vu, the link you gave me says to clean the carburetor but the sea foam would do that also. so should i use the sea foam to see how it works and then buy the carb cleaner?
EDIT: also, thanks for the link. i think that's the problem with mine.
EDIT: also, thanks for the link. i think that's the problem with mine.
ok that link is not sufficient, use this to take the TB off and the IACV if u deside to as well its a lot easier to clean it when the TB is off the engine and u will do a better job too:
Tool required:
ratchet
10m socket
12mm socket
flathead or 8mm socket
pliers or vise grips
1 can of Throttle Body cleaner
1 can of Carb cleaner (I find Berrymans B12 to work fastest)
new throttle body gasket
new IAC Valve Gasket (dealer only)
1) disconnect battery. unclip airbox, unplug MAF Sensor, use pliers to slide clamps holding hoses to airbox down and slide off hoses, use flathead or 8mm socket to loosen clamp holding air tube to throttle Body, remove 10mm socket on side of airbox holding it down and remove air intake assembly.
2) move throttle to fully open position, lift throttle cables one at a time forward and wiggle out of the TB (towards the left of the TB). Unplug 2 Throttle Position Sensor Plugs.
3) remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the TB to the plenum
4) on the bottom of the TB there will either be 2 or 3 hoses attatched. use pliers to slide clamps down and remove hoses. make sure your radiator cap is still on or engine coolant will start to flow out. If hoses have seized on, use flathead to pry the top and break the seal.
5) Remove throttle body. scrape old gasket from both surfaces. clean entire buttefly plate (both faces) and cylinder. there should be no black when done. use only tb cleaner as carb cleaner will remove teflon coating which can later lead to faster corrosion and/or deposit formation
6) locate IAC Valve (triangular unit bolted to drivers side of the plenum right in front of the firewall with a large hose that was connected to the air intake assembly) unplug all 4 plugs.
7) remove 10mm bolt holding EGR Temp Sensor plug to the IAC Valve. (hard to see so you may have to feel around the firewall side for it) It is the only plug of the 4 not directly attatched to the IAC Valve body
8) remove 3 12mm bolts holding IAC Valve to the plenum and remove IAC Valve. Remove old gasket (no need for scraping as it is a metal gasket).
9) spray/wipe the entire inside of the triangular face clean. Spray the inside of the brass housing clean of all deposits. spray base of Idle screw clean to ensure no carbon deposits remain. Be liberal with the spray.
10) replace gaskets and reassemble in reverse order. make sure when attatching the air tube to the TB you tighten the clamp. a loose clamp = a small vacuum leak that probably cant be heard but will be felt (high idle).
before reassmebling, some like to spray remaining tb cleaner/carb cleaner into the plenum to clean it up. This is usually a waste of time since oil coming from the PCV will quickly muck it up again but pooled cleaner may help clean downstream intake when you start it back up. not enough to make a bg difference but hey. If you do this, dont be alarmed by the blue smoke at startup (oil and sludge being burned off). Start the car, take it for a short run to blow any remaining cleaner out and you are done.
Tool required:
ratchet
10m socket
12mm socket
flathead or 8mm socket
pliers or vise grips
1 can of Throttle Body cleaner
1 can of Carb cleaner (I find Berrymans B12 to work fastest)
new throttle body gasket
new IAC Valve Gasket (dealer only)
1) disconnect battery. unclip airbox, unplug MAF Sensor, use pliers to slide clamps holding hoses to airbox down and slide off hoses, use flathead or 8mm socket to loosen clamp holding air tube to throttle Body, remove 10mm socket on side of airbox holding it down and remove air intake assembly.
2) move throttle to fully open position, lift throttle cables one at a time forward and wiggle out of the TB (towards the left of the TB). Unplug 2 Throttle Position Sensor Plugs.
3) remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the TB to the plenum
4) on the bottom of the TB there will either be 2 or 3 hoses attatched. use pliers to slide clamps down and remove hoses. make sure your radiator cap is still on or engine coolant will start to flow out. If hoses have seized on, use flathead to pry the top and break the seal.
5) Remove throttle body. scrape old gasket from both surfaces. clean entire buttefly plate (both faces) and cylinder. there should be no black when done. use only tb cleaner as carb cleaner will remove teflon coating which can later lead to faster corrosion and/or deposit formation
6) locate IAC Valve (triangular unit bolted to drivers side of the plenum right in front of the firewall with a large hose that was connected to the air intake assembly) unplug all 4 plugs.
7) remove 10mm bolt holding EGR Temp Sensor plug to the IAC Valve. (hard to see so you may have to feel around the firewall side for it) It is the only plug of the 4 not directly attatched to the IAC Valve body
8) remove 3 12mm bolts holding IAC Valve to the plenum and remove IAC Valve. Remove old gasket (no need for scraping as it is a metal gasket).
9) spray/wipe the entire inside of the triangular face clean. Spray the inside of the brass housing clean of all deposits. spray base of Idle screw clean to ensure no carbon deposits remain. Be liberal with the spray.
10) replace gaskets and reassemble in reverse order. make sure when attatching the air tube to the TB you tighten the clamp. a loose clamp = a small vacuum leak that probably cant be heard but will be felt (high idle).
before reassmebling, some like to spray remaining tb cleaner/carb cleaner into the plenum to clean it up. This is usually a waste of time since oil coming from the PCV will quickly muck it up again but pooled cleaner may help clean downstream intake when you start it back up. not enough to make a bg difference but hey. If you do this, dont be alarmed by the blue smoke at startup (oil and sludge being burned off). Start the car, take it for a short run to blow any remaining cleaner out and you are done.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jmlee44
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
8
Oct 2, 2022 02:13 PM
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
Jun 6, 2017 02:01 PM
Forge277
1st & 2nd Generation Maxima (1981-1984 and 1985-1988)
12
Jun 13, 2016 09:26 PM




