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Broke the Neutral Park finder!

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Old Aug 26, 2001 | 03:04 PM
  #1  
ericdwong's Avatar
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Ok, this is bad, I was trying to take out the neutral park finder in order to fix my leak, except I broke the damn thing trying to pry it out. Unfortunately, it does not look like theres a quick pack connector on it. I'm thinking along the lines of JB welding the plastic part back together as I'm sure this piece is not going to be cheap to replace. Anyway, I removed the O ring, and it is intact alright. It does not fit tightly over the neutral park finder however. I'm definately going to get a new O ring. But I'm thinking about RTVing the thing in as well to stop the leakage. I really dont anticipate needing to remove that unit again, so long as there is no leak coming from it. I'm letting all the oil drain out of the M/T as I type this into a clean oil pan, so I will be able to reuse the oil. Then I'll clean the area and RTV the thing in.

By the way, I replaced my rear wheel stud and it was ALOT easier then I thought it would be! It also cost me less then $2, but I still need a new lug nut. Can anybody explain to me how the rear emergency brake is activated? From what I heard, even cars with rear disc brakes have shoes, because of the difficulty in a cable pushing the hydraulic piston. From what I saw today from removing the rotor, there is NOTHING behind the rotor "hat" where shoes would be. And, the parking brake cables go right into the caliper anyway. Does the cable actually active the piston?
Old Aug 26, 2001 | 08:33 PM
  #2  
Daniel B. Martin's Avatar
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Confusing

Originally posted by ericdwong
Ok, this is bad, I was trying to take out the neutral park finder in order to fix my leak, except I broke the damn thing trying to pry it out. Unfortunately, it does not look like theres a quick pack connector on it. I'm thinking along the lines of JB welding the plastic part back together as I'm sure this piece is not going to be cheap to replace. Anyway, I removed the O ring, and it is intact alright. It does not fit tightly over the neutral park finder however. I'm definately going to get a new O ring. But I'm thinking about RTVing the thing in as well to stop the leakage. I really dont anticipate needing to remove that unit again, so long as there is no leak coming from it. I'm letting all the oil drain out of the M/T as I type this into a clean oil pan, so I will be able to reuse the oil. Then I'll clean the area and RTV the thing in.
...
This is confusing. There is no part called "neutral park finder".
Old Aug 26, 2001 | 08:42 PM
  #3  
Daniel B. Martin's Avatar
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Originally posted by ericdwong
... By the way, I replaced my rear wheel stud and it was ALOT easier then I thought it would be! It also cost me less then $2, but I still need a new lug nut. Can anybody explain to me how the rear emergency brake is activated? From what I heard, even cars with rear disc brakes have shoes, because of the difficulty in a cable pushing the hydraulic piston. From what I saw today from removing the rotor, there is NOTHING behind the rotor "hat" where shoes would be. And, the parking brake cables go right into the caliper anyway. Does the cable actually active the piston?
Some rear disk brakes have a small drum brake housed inside the rotor to serve as the handbrake. The Maxima does not use this design. The Maxima rear caliper contains a cable-operated screw mechanism which moves the caliper piston, actuating the disk brake mechanically rather than hydraulically.
Old Aug 26, 2001 | 09:09 PM
  #4  
ericdwong's Avatar
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Re: Confusing

Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
This is confusing. There is no part called "neutral park finder".

OK make that the "Park Neutral Position" switch.
Old Aug 27, 2001 | 04:23 AM
  #5  
Daniel B. Martin's Avatar
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Originally posted by ericdwong
Ok, this is bad, I was trying to take out the neutral park finder in order to fix my leak, except I broke the damn thing trying to pry it out. Unfortunately, it does not look like theres a quick pack connector on it. I'm thinking along the lines of JB welding the plastic part back together as I'm sure this piece is not going to be cheap to replace. Anyway, I removed the O ring, and it is intact alright. It does not fit tightly over the neutral park finder however. I'm definately going to get a new O ring. But I'm thinking about RTVing the thing in as well to stop the leakage. I really dont anticipate needing to remove that unit again, so long as there is no leak coming from it. I'm letting all the oil drain out of the M/T as I type this into a clean oil pan, so I will be able to reuse the oil. Then I'll clean the area and RTV the thing in. ...
... OK make that the "Park Neutral Position" switch.
Replacement is certainly better than a patch job. You imagine the replacement part will be costly. Get a price quote, and then you will be able to make an informed decision.

I think RTV could make a good seal if you can get the surfaces really clean.
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