How do I disconnect the tie-rod from the steering knuckle? I have been using a seperator with no luck. tried a puller, no way to put it on there. I have no idea why the fork won't seperate it. Help!!!!!!!

 

just hit the knuckle with a hammer a couple times, it will come right loose.

 

Well, I hvae tried that, I followed my Haynes manual, it says to take out the cotter pin, loosen the nut (which I did) and use a puller to disconnect it, but a puller would not work in this situation, it just pulls basically on itself. I tried using a fork seperator and a hammer to wedge it between the ball joint and the connecting rod, but it will not budge. I tried hitting the tie-rod with a hammer to bust it loose but that hasn't worked either. I am really lost here. I am maybe wondering if there is something wrong with it causing it not to disconnect.
I was also looking in the parts catalog on Courtesy Nissans website and saw the tie-rod and ball joint were one part. Does it come as one part permanently sealed or just as an assembly?
I am afraid I mangulated it a little bit too. I will try and post a picture of it when I get the chance.
Also, if you know why it says to leave the nut on and not disconnect it from the ball-stud bolt, I could not figure out why you can't just take it off with it still attached to the tie-rod.
Any information MUCH appreciated! Thanks

 

ok
what're you trying to do?
but when you hit it, you should be hitting the Knuckle, NOT the tie rod end, give it a couple good whacks and it WILL come loose.

Let us know what you're up to though, why are you pulling the tie rod, etc.

 

The puller should work fine, back out the screw, put one side of the puller between the rubber and nuckle, turn puller with end under rubber so that the other end touches the rod -then turn the screw on the puller slowly and centered so it come loose. took me several attempts to get it angle so that the arms on puller grip the nuckle. Good luck

 

yeah man just cut your wheel to give you more room and just beat the knuckle/hub assymbly right where the tie rod goes through.and if your trying to replace the outer tie rod end you might want to chack that nut loose on it.think its a 19mm....good luck

 

Sometimes they can be a *****, banging the **** out of the fork with a giant sledghammer makes life alot easier.

 

^^if you're replacing it thats cool.
If you aren't then you'll likely fuak the boot up.

 

Broke it loose. The other one came out alot easier, I did it in a couple minutes.
Now I am working on the driveshafts. I have everything off, and I am figuring out how to pull the left shaft off, so I can tap out the right. Any tips?

 

I am dropping my engine to put on a gasket kit. I leaked oil badly. I have the driveshafts, power steering pump, and a little bit more wiring to disconnect.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mevjen/

 

you can take either one out, they'res no need to do one before the other.
they're fairly simple, sometimes they need a bit of pursuasion with a pry bar at the tranny output, but normally a good tug on the end of the driveshaft will pop it out.

the right side may be seized in the support bracket, mine was, I messed with it for about an hour trying to get it out, then finally just took the bracket down with the driveshaft.

 

Thanks, yeah it is probably seized also. I will definately look at just taking the bracket off with it. I will let you know how it turned out.
One more question (maybe) I unbolted the power steering pump, by taking the tensioner bolt and the pivot bolt out and it moves back and forth but won't swing loose. I left the hoses on because the manual doesn't call for taking the whole thing out. Is there more than two bolts? It was a pain to take them out because it is so close to the fender, and I can't see well on the side there either.

 

Did you get the one that comes in from behind? 14mm head, IIRC.

 

pmohr: I took out the one from behind like you referenced and the tensioner bracket bolt (what a pain). It wobbles back and forth, I think it just needs a firm pull, I haven't tried that yet. I will get some pictures on my google account also.

Here is some pictures from the project: http://picasaweb.google.com/mevjen/EngineDrop

 

When they are completely seized in there, which they almost always are, your alternative is.................????

There is no way to not F it up, the spreader type F's them up as well. FTR Energysuspension sells replacement boots.

 

Well, I got the power steering pump off as well. I used a crow bar to pry it off. It was really wedged between the mounts. That was the last thing before the engine can come down. Wish me luck! I'll put pictures up on that website I posted.
Thanks yall!
-Matthew

 

Good luck man! But for the record, the tie-rods or ps pump can all be left in when dropping it.

Glad to see your dropping it though, makes things much easier.