It seems like nobody visits the Fluids section anymore, therefore i'm posting ths here:

I've used M1: EP Synthetic for the last 3 oil changes. It had 128K miles on it at the time.
The previous owner was using Castrol Synthetic blend.(the crappy one)

Since switching over to M1, i've developed a rear valve cover leak (which was fixed) and a TC cover leak that's been getting worse during the colder months.

I've been trying out Auto-RX, and i'm wrapping up my 1st rinse phase. (I was afraid of switching to Dino to do the Auto-RX)
Since Synthetic is prone to make leak problems look worse (seems like it was responsible for the leak in the 1st place); i was wondering if i can switch back to Dino oil with my next oil change and do a 2nd Auto-RX treatment.

Will it be okay to switch from Synthetic back to Dino? I've heard that it's not reccomended.

 

What you heard was old school. You can switch from dino to synthetic and vice versa any time you feel like it. In fact, run two clean cycles and rinse cycles of Auto-RX using cheap SuperTech Dino 5w-30 oil found at Walmart. This will ensure excellent results from Auto-RX. Upon completion, switch back to synthetic of your choice.

I am currently running Pennzoil Platinum (full synthetic) after 2 Auto-RX cycles with no problems. The first time my car saw full synthetic was at 117k Miles with no ill effects.

Good Luck with your application.

P.S. Run full 3k mile OCI's with Auto-RX to ensure thorough cleaning.

 

Hey, I'm just wrapping up the 1st apllication (3K clean/ 3K rinse). I'm due for an oil change in 200 miles. I think that i'll switch to Castrol GTX at that time, and then do another Auto-RX application.

Spartuss, you did the smart thing; you ran 2 Auto-RX cycles before switching, where i just switched. Hence the root of my problem.

Thanks!!!! Anyone else care to chime in?

 

Are you using Auto-RX on any other components such as the transmission?

 

I've used it in the tranny, prior to a flush using M1: Synth ATF

 

Have you felt a difference in the way the car shifts after the application?

What ATF did you use prior to M1 when you were ARXing your transmission.

 

I actually did a drain/fill with M1 Synth when i got the car (I don't know what was in there, but it was waaay overdue for a change). That was @ about 127K miles. I did an auto-rx application @ 131 K miles followed by a T-Tech flush with M1 Synth @ 133K.

The results are a much smoother-shifting tranny. When cold, the 1-2 shift is not as rough (although still not 100% smooth/no ATF will fix that). I had a very rough 3-4 shift which has totally smoothed out.

A t-tech flush doesn't "shock" the tranny as some other flushing machines do, therefore it's mich safe to use in an old tranny. I'd say Auto-Rx & an M1 flush is the way to go is you're considering an ATF change.

Just simply flushing an old, neglected tranny is not reccomended, but a do beleive that doing what i did is a safe method.

 

I never flush the transmission in my car. I do very frequent drain and refills with M1 ATF as well. I heard people have good results with Amsoil ATF, even with a drain and refill, with only 50% Amsoil ATF in the tranny mixed in! I might be giving that a try once.

 

I think i'll go with Amsoil whenever i get a new car.

 

I just switched back to Dino over the weekend. I went with a M1 m-110 EP filter and Castrol GTX. I remember someone saying that they noticed a smoother idle when going back to Dyno. I must say that it actually does idle smoother in "P" and sounds better under load . I've yet to check for the leak status, but i'm hoping for more positive results I've also started a 2nd round of Auto RX I like the fact that now i'm doing it right

 

I have always had great results from Mobil 1-synthetic. In fact, about 30k miles ago, I started running Mobil 1 Extended through my max. I don't even have to change the oil but every 15k miles. I just do the normal filter change at the regular interval, and then top off what leaks out when changing the filter. Mobil 1 is great.

 

15K miles??? hmmmm... I use Mobil 1 and still change every 3k miles. The cost ain't **** to me.

 

You done any UOAs to justify your current change interval?

dave

 

Even a lot of car guys that are way more into cars than I am don't do their change every 3k. That is a hype that the oil change places tell people so that they can generate more business. If you come in every 3k miles, they are making more money (Yes, even if you change it yourself.....it is just that the oil companies make more.)

 

Dave, what are UOA's? Just don't know the acronym.

 

+1. It totally helped fix my rough 1-2 shift, and overall smoothness of the tranny.

 

Used Oil Analysis. It's the only real way to know whether oil is ready to be changed or not.

I personally run Mobil1 and change every 5k. 15k is 5X the basic interval: that strikes me as pretty extreme considering oil changes cost me $25 per.

 

With me changing out the oil filter every 5k and adding some new oil, the oil is no dirtier than when I used to change it every 5k. No, I have not done a Used Oil Analysis though. Maybe I ought to check that out.

 

Good to hear that you have great results aussie983 & Brudaddy, but i've added myself to the list of people that are wary of putting synthetic in high-mileage cars. (except for ATF of course)
I'll defintetly run M1:EP on my next car, along with Amsoil for the tranny!

 

Actually, there are sub-filter sized particles (in the <30micron range) that contribute to wear that are not caught by any filter. In a UOA report these are called FDRS. So while oil breakdown is the big issue, I personally would not go that long unless I'm comfortable with the FDRS levels at 15k. But that's just me.

Dave

 

Interesting.
Where would I go to get an oil test done?

 

IMO, trying to salvage an engine's life with FULL SYNTHETIC is not that worthwhile as protection through out most of the engine's life is not there relative to dino oil. That's not to say though, that further protection is not needed.

My Maxima has been on AMSOIL since as early as 1,000-2,000 miles - after being broken in sort of speak. I do intend and have used FULLY SYN, AMSOIL / MOBIL 1 always and have not had any problems. I do have oil leaks here and there, but that is natural with age. I have not had any major problems with the engine itself.

I DON'T do oil analysis or even bother with it.
I do intervals at about 5-7K and change BOTH OIL and OIL FILTER. Some call it a waste of money or whatever, but I feel comfortable doing so. I just can't imagine going 20-25k on AMSOIL and have the OIL FILTER last that long !! For the cost, it's petty to me. I drive in the city 9/10 times and whatever harsh factor you guys wanna factor in.

People are just lazy these days.

But to answer your question, I don't think there are any problems switching oil. By seals, do you mean it's seeping through your new gaskets?

What I think is:
If you start using treatment, your heading in the wrong direction. Those stop a leak things are temp fixes. Automotive is mechanical science. If a washer, or o ring is messed up, you gotta fix it. Fluid doesn't save it. I've NEVER used those lucas things, sea foam, auto x, etc etc and I've been fine.

 

^^^^ maybe, but spending $400 to fix a small oil leak (that might return depending on workmanship) on 11 yr old car with 135K miles would be a waste compared to a two bottles of auto-rx.

 

Auto-rx is not a stop leak. Nor is it a temp fix. And it def cant be compared to lucas crap. and Mobil 1 is not fully synthetic.

 

Whats Auto RX? And were can I get it? Should I do that on my next change? I been using M1 for like a year now too... and thankfully no issues...

 

auto-rx dot com. supposed to clean out your engine thoroughly. (not a quick flush). I have tried it and am convinced it does some of what it claims. definately cleaned up in there and quietened things down. if you are worried about previous sludge buildup then give it a shot. if it aint broke, dont fix it.

 

+1
I only fix what needs to be fixed, other than that, just keep up on your maintanance. I run regular oil 5w-30 in winter and 10w-30 in summer with oil and filter change every 4k miles. no problems.

 

I was talking about M1 Extended performance, which is fully synthetic.