In the past few weeks I have noticed a brief THUD while I accelerate quickly, which is felt through the pedal...not chirping the tires, just 1/3 throttle

It only happens when I accelerate from a dead stop...going straight, or turning either way.

End-links are fine
Strut mount bushings were just replaced
CV boots are intact

Any ideas?

 

check control arm bushings and engine crossmember.
I've broken a couple crossmembers over the years, and the symptoms start out that way.
Engine mounts also do the same thing.

 

2nd that I've heard from engine mounts...

I have MMI, so wouldn't that help "beef" the actual mounts up?

What would I be looking for in the control arm bushings, and engine cross-member=sub-frame? I googled the images and that's what it looks like...so what would I look for in that?

 

f!@$! f!@$!

.......this sucks badly because I took my axles out to examine them and somehow I f$#@ the thread up on the end of the axle and thought I could maybe re-thread it a little like I did on my strut mounts...BUT NO! zapped the s!@# out of the inside nut and called Nissan and the hook-up price would be $400 per f$#@ axle!

I was checking them to see the condition of the teeth, and the teeth are very ground down, but holly s!@# on the f$#@ up thread and the high price!

Car is going to be in my garage on jacks...any suggestions on fixing the threading or better pricing?

 

:relieved:

NAPA Auto Parts for the win/to the rescue...

$61.xx for each full axle and an $85 core exchange...I'll gladly take that over $460...

NOW, Matt, do you honestly think that the after-market brand will be up to OEM specs? I know that all after-market brands say that they meet or exceed OEM specifications, but what's your take?

Also, I got the axle out from the front, but I wasn't able to yank it out completely from the transmission...tips/advice?

greatly appreciate your advice

 

you coulda taken a dinc grinder and ground down the damaged threads on the end and used a triangle-shaped file to clean it up. then run the nut back down on it starting from the good side and slather anti-seize everywhere.

and next time you wanna take the axle out, don't ever hit the end of the axle with a hammer. it's soft enough to distort the threads. IF you have to do it, leave the nut on the end of the axle to protect the threads and stick a board over that for additional protection. whack the board and everything will be good.

What's a broken crossmember look like?
http://blehmco.com/pics/car/drivetrain/crossmember/

for control arm bushings, it's hard to describe, but basically look for play in the front suspension/control arms. have someone watch the front wheels upon hard starts/stops and see if the front wheels move fore/aft or change alignment visibly.

 

That's the thing though...I did NOT hit it with a metal hammer, I hit it with a rubber hammer. I think when the hub was slipping out of my hands the axle fell and hit the suspension arm or the hub rather hard, so maybe that was it.

So any opinion on the Napa axles?

 

I have this same issue now after I went to the track a couple weeks ago. Hard launch after they sprayed VHT in my stage lane. I think the motor mount is the culprit.

 

That will be inspected soon as well, but the teeth on my axles are ground down anyways, so I was going to get new ones sooner or later.

 

Id say motor mount. Put the car in drive with the e brake up and have a buddy look at your engine bay. If it rocks more than usual its deff your mounts. Hit up EnergySuspension.

 

Get new axles and take it from there. Thud doesn't sound like axles....it sounds like T....NY, you pray it's not.

 

Sounds like T...NY?

 

My suggestion is to get that axle fixed. I'd get the cheapest axle you can find that has a lifetime warranty. Don't bother with it unless it has that warranty. Worst case scenario is that you snap an axle, but as far as I know, they are just as beefy as OEM axles.

But while you're in there, I'd check ALL the torque specs of every single suspension nut and bolt. I had a loud pop sound coming from the front left strut area when I first bought the car. It turned out that the upper strut main nut was loose.

Also, I'd get someone to rev the engine while you physically watch it to see if you see any excessive movement. But it should be easy to inspect the crossmember and engine mounts for damage.

 

I asked the guy at Napa if there is a warranty on them and it just said "no warranty information available," so his response is "that it will be just like Nissan's warranty..."

 

You don't need my advice (PM), you're all taken care of in here.

 

I wouldn't buy it from Napa then. I know that Auto Zone, Advance Auto parts, Pep Boys, Checkers, etc all have a lifetime warranty on some of the remanufactured axles they offer. I remember that some brands have it and some don't. So just make sure you get that lifetime warranty in writing before purchasing.

I got mine from Checkers back in 2003 or 04 I think. The axle is still holding up fine, even with the occasional 1.8 60 foot. But it definitely has a lifetime warranty.

 

Tranny,

I had thuds before the tranny was replaced. Axles usually just click unless they are completely fckd

 

All of those places did not even supply them, so they would not be able to get them.

Either way I'm just a in this situation because what I thought were "bad teeth" on the axle, were actually how they were supposed to be...

Main reason I just got a new driver side axle is because of the bad threads...

Being optimistic...at least I learned something at a $65 cost...

It doesn't feel like my tranny...just seems as if something rocks back and forth briefly while under quick acceleration or braking...aka motor mounts, which quite a few people have stated now

 

Everything was put back together smoothly and drives smoothly. No shaking or vibrations and low triple digit speeds.

thanks for everyone's input, and motor mount will be my next adventure...

 

Last year I picked up an axle from Napa (passenger side) and it wasn't even the right size so I had to take it back for a refund. They said it was the only part# they had in the system for my 02 6mt, but definitely didnt match the one that I took off the car. anyways, ended up having a local shop rebuild mine b/c nobody had one in stock around here.
I just ordered one this week for the driver side (axle nut threads seized -- sonofa..)
www.americancvstore.com -- brand new axle, not rebuilt, No Core Charge. Was ~67 + shipping. Just got it delivered yesterday and am going to be doing that, new hub, and new bearing today.

--> What do you think your "thud" was from?