Car wont start, something fried. Need help!
Car wont start, something fried. Need help!
Ok, so tonight I was replacing my MAF and the 00 IACV gasket. I go to start my car at after all is done, it cranks, but doesnt start. Something is fried in the dash by the drivers left knee, just left of the gauge cluster are. I dont think its a fuse, cause when it fried, it buzzed and now smells, fuses pop and dont smell. As I said, it cranks, but doesnt turn over. Any ideas???
Last edited by MOHFpro90; Jun 18, 2008 at 05:49 PM.
oh jeez kyle what did you do now?
how in the world did that happen? did you have any of the trim, buttons, etc taken out or were they all in place?
sounds like you shorted something out....
how in the world did that happen? did you have any of the trim, buttons, etc taken out or were they all in place?
sounds like you shorted something out....
what ever it may be it doesnt sound healthy. frying wires is
. i would start with the basics IE fuel and spark. and go from there. usually when there is a crank but no start up i would suspect one of two things. Crankshaft sensor or your fuel system. but i would lean more towards your fuel considering you have fried something by your drivers side. also i would double check the fuses underneath the hood if you havent already
. i would start with the basics IE fuel and spark. and go from there. usually when there is a crank but no start up i would suspect one of two things. Crankshaft sensor or your fuel system. but i would lean more towards your fuel considering you have fried something by your drivers side. also i would double check the fuses underneath the hood if you havent already
Battery was connected. Although it should have been disconnected, disconnecting the MAF and IACV would not cause any harm. So dont worry about that.
Relays pop. Fuses pop. Neither buzz. Also the smell is fried silicon NOT fried wires.
The sound came from the far left dash area. The smell is inside the car.
Doesn anyone know if there is some sort of ignition control module or something similar behind the dash?
Relays pop. Fuses pop. Neither buzz. Also the smell is fried silicon NOT fried wires.
The sound came from the far left dash area. The smell is inside the car.
Doesn anyone know if there is some sort of ignition control module or something similar behind the dash?
Battery was connected. Although it should have been disconnected, disconnecting the MAF and IACV would not cause any harm. So dont worry about that.
Relays pop. Fuses pop. Neither buzz. Also the smell is fried silicon NOT fried wires.
The sound came from the far left dash area. The smell is inside the car.
Doesn anyone know if there is some sort of ignition control module or something similar behind the dash?
Relays pop. Fuses pop. Neither buzz. Also the smell is fried silicon NOT fried wires.
The sound came from the far left dash area. The smell is inside the car.
Doesn anyone know if there is some sort of ignition control module or something similar behind the dash?
There is a fuel relay in the kick panel by the left door behind a metal cover. Check that relay out. Actually there are two of them. I think its the one on the left side. See if that one has fried.
John
John
I checked all of the relays just in case. They are fine. All of the fuses in the kick panel are fine too.
Sarin, I can not hear the fuel pump making any noise, however I do hear a buzzing sound right in front of the starter. Will the fuel pump prime if the lines already have pressure?
Sarin, I can not hear the fuel pump making any noise, however I do hear a buzzing sound right in front of the starter. Will the fuel pump prime if the lines already have pressure?
Last edited by MOHFpro90; Jun 19, 2008 at 09:26 AM.
crank sensor on my max caused it to not start... but your situation is different.
check connectors, they will have a different burning smell then the wires themselves... hope you have an ohm meter, wiring is a *****
check connectors, they will have a different burning smell then the wires themselves... hope you have an ohm meter, wiring is a *****
I checked all of the relays just in case. They are fine. All of the fuses in the kick panel are fine too.
Sarin, I can not hear the fuel pump making any noise, however I do hear a buzzing sound right in front of the starter. Will the fuel pump prime if the lines already have pressure?
Sarin, I can not hear the fuel pump making any noise, however I do hear a buzzing sound right in front of the starter. Will the fuel pump prime if the lines already have pressure?
Right in front of the starter...not really much there. Could it be sound from the starter solenoid or IACV?
I would pull the lower dash on the driver's side, there are a few relays that could be damaged left of the fuses (it's possible that they shorted internally and are burning up, seen it before...not fun). The buzzing sound could very well be something shorting between B+ and ground. After that, I'd probably drop that fuse/relay panel and check out the wiring behind it.
I believe the ignition relay there is for the ignition system, not the switch...but I could be wrong. Never really looked into it before.
I'd check to see if you're not getting fuel, or spark...narrow down what it is that's causing your no-start condition, that should in turn narrow down exactly what to look for.
crash_landing, I do have a multi meter, and yeah wiring is a *****.
pmohr, thanks for the help man.
The buzzing is not from the IACV. The sound is coming from below the front of the coolant log, by where the radiator hose is.
All of the fuses and 3 relays in the kick panel box are ok, I tested them, including the fuel pump relay which was hidden under the dash away from the other 3.
And by checking for spark/fuel, should I just pull a plug and tap the IGN? and then try to feel pressure in the fuel line?
Also, I have a new symptom. Today I tried to check codes, just to see if anything showed, and the CEL wouldn't even respond when I checked it with the screw driver. Also, the CEL does not come on when I turn the key to IGN.
pmohr, thanks for the help man.
The buzzing is not from the IACV. The sound is coming from below the front of the coolant log, by where the radiator hose is.
All of the fuses and 3 relays in the kick panel box are ok, I tested them, including the fuel pump relay which was hidden under the dash away from the other 3.
And by checking for spark/fuel, should I just pull a plug and tap the IGN? and then try to feel pressure in the fuel line?
Also, I have a new symptom. Today I tried to check codes, just to see if anything showed, and the CEL wouldn't even respond when I checked it with the screw driver. Also, the CEL does not come on when I turn the key to IGN.
Last edited by MOHFpro90; Jun 19, 2008 at 04:37 PM.
And by checking for spark/fuel, should I just pull a plug and tap the IGN? and then try to feel pressure in the fuel line?
Also, I have a new symptom. Today I tried to check codes, just to see if anything showed, and the CEL wouldn't even respond when I checked it with the screw driver. Also, the CEL does not come on when I turn the key to IGN.
Also, I have a new symptom. Today I tried to check codes, just to see if anything showed, and the CEL wouldn't even respond when I checked it with the screw driver. Also, the CEL does not come on when I turn the key to IGN.
For the fuel, best way really would be to pull one side of the rail up and see if they spray, but you could also do the one-man prime test; disconnect the battery, put the key in ignition, and hold the feed hose while reconnecting the battery. You should easily be able to feel it if it's priming, but that also doesn't rule out the injectors; they may not be passing fuel.
CEL issue is odd, first thing I'd check for is a blown bulb.
Thanks for your help. I will check for spark and fuel prime tomorrow. Would it be ok to just remove one injector and see if it sprays?
The bulb looks to be in good condition. I have half of my dash sitting on my bed... I will test tomorrow though.
The bulb looks to be in good condition. I have half of my dash sitting on my bed... I will test tomorrow though.
Yea, one injector will work just fine for the purposes of the test, assuming nothing weird is going on.
I checked this morning on the rear bank, still no spark. So both front and rear are not sparking.
I also pulled the front fuel rail up and checked for spray. I got nothing that I could see or feel.
What the hell is wrong?
I also pulled the front fuel rail up and checked for spray. I got nothing that I could see or feel.
What the hell is wrong?
what ever it may be it doesnt sound healthy. frying wires is
. i would start with the basics IE fuel and spark. and go from there. usually when there is a crank but no start up i would suspect one of two things. Crankshaft sensor or your fuel system. but i would lean more towards your fuel considering you have fried something by your drivers side. also i would double check the fuses underneath the hood if you havent already
. i would start with the basics IE fuel and spark. and go from there. usually when there is a crank but no start up i would suspect one of two things. Crankshaft sensor or your fuel system. but i would lean more towards your fuel considering you have fried something by your drivers side. also i would double check the fuses underneath the hood if you havent already
alright im having almost the same problem.
i got a 1994 nissan maxima 3.0 sohc
i so ready to smash this car omg u have no idea.
1 the front 3 injectors = wiring somthing is wrong with it
2 the connector piece to the wiring harness is messed up i dont know why i check it with a tester light to see if its giving me power and ground Nope its not its only giving me 3 grounds i dont know why
so theres a problem somwhere in my engine wiring harness which sucks
also before that i was getting 2 grounds and 1 power after hooking up the fuel injectors still no start..... errrrrr...... now i take it off now and check the wiring clip its shows me 3 grounds ..... is there like a fuse i dont know about in the wiring harness or sumthing i have the complete car interor taken out i can see the the fuse box to the driver low side and big blue fues there too also to the passenger sige low feet thers a fuse box there too i dont know whats that for also i see my ecu and i see two red lights in it i dont know why if you live in new jersey in the sussex area can u come and give me a hand to fix this probelm my number is 862 228 8882 ask for kane
i really want this car to be fix its been 4 months trying to get this car fix so i can get a job....
i got a 1994 nissan maxima 3.0 sohc
i so ready to smash this car omg u have no idea.
1 the front 3 injectors = wiring somthing is wrong with it
2 the connector piece to the wiring harness is messed up i dont know why i check it with a tester light to see if its giving me power and ground Nope its not its only giving me 3 grounds i dont know why
so theres a problem somwhere in my engine wiring harness which sucks
also before that i was getting 2 grounds and 1 power after hooking up the fuel injectors still no start..... errrrrr...... now i take it off now and check the wiring clip its shows me 3 grounds ..... is there like a fuse i dont know about in the wiring harness or sumthing i have the complete car interor taken out i can see the the fuse box to the driver low side and big blue fues there too also to the passenger sige low feet thers a fuse box there too i dont know whats that for also i see my ecu and i see two red lights in it i dont know why if you live in new jersey in the sussex area can u come and give me a hand to fix this probelm my number is 862 228 8882 ask for kane
i really want this car to be fix its been 4 months trying to get this car fix so i can get a job....
alright im having almost the same problem.
i got a 1994 nissan maxima 3.0 sohc
i so ready to smash this car omg u have no idea.
1 the front 3 injectors = wiring somthing is wrong with it
2 the connector piece to the wiring harness is messed up i dont know why i check it with a tester light to see if its giving me power and ground Nope its not its only giving me 3 grounds i dont know why
so theres a problem somwhere in my engine wiring harness which sucks
also before that i was getting 2 grounds and 1 power after hooking up the fuel injectors still no start..... errrrrr...... now i take it off now and check the wiring clip its shows me 3 grounds ..... is there like a fuse i dont know about in the wiring harness or sumthing i have the complete car interor taken out i can see the the fuse box to the driver low side and big blue fues there too also to the passenger sige low feet thers a fuse box there too i dont know whats that for also i see my ecu and i see two red lights in it i dont know why if you live in new jersey in the sussex area can u come and give me a hand to fix this probelm my number is 862 228 8882 ask for kane
i really want this car to be fix its been 4 months trying to get this car fix so i can get a job....
i got a 1994 nissan maxima 3.0 sohc
i so ready to smash this car omg u have no idea.
1 the front 3 injectors = wiring somthing is wrong with it
2 the connector piece to the wiring harness is messed up i dont know why i check it with a tester light to see if its giving me power and ground Nope its not its only giving me 3 grounds i dont know why
so theres a problem somwhere in my engine wiring harness which sucks
also before that i was getting 2 grounds and 1 power after hooking up the fuel injectors still no start..... errrrrr...... now i take it off now and check the wiring clip its shows me 3 grounds ..... is there like a fuse i dont know about in the wiring harness or sumthing i have the complete car interor taken out i can see the the fuse box to the driver low side and big blue fues there too also to the passenger sige low feet thers a fuse box there too i dont know whats that for also i see my ecu and i see two red lights in it i dont know why if you live in new jersey in the sussex area can u come and give me a hand to fix this probelm my number is 862 228 8882 ask for kane
i really want this car to be fix its been 4 months trying to get this car fix so i can get a job....
Edit: also please reread and edit/fix your gramar issues
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; Jun 21, 2008 at 06:22 PM.
ive been thinkn. wat about ur ignition switch? u do have power like when u turn ur key cuz u say it cranks? if it does couldnt it be from where it sends the signal to ur starter etc to start? i probably sound like a retard but if somebody understood wat i meant mayb itll help... have ya tried startn it with the ol' scewdriver to starter trick?
ECM is not getting powered on.
Check ECU pin 24(R), to see if it gets power when the car is in ON and ACC (batt v)
Check ECU pin 80(W), to see if it gets power when the car is OFF (batt v)
ECU pin 67/72, see if it gets power in the ON and ACC position. (batt v)
ECU pin 4, should take a few seconds after you turn the key to start to off (batt v)
If 67/72 or pin 4 do not show voltage then check the ECCS relay and check if Fuse57 all the way to the relay has continuity(this will show if the wire from the fuse to the relay is shorted or not)
Check ECU pin 24(R), to see if it gets power when the car is in ON and ACC (batt v)
Check ECU pin 80(W), to see if it gets power when the car is OFF (batt v)
ECU pin 67/72, see if it gets power in the ON and ACC position. (batt v)
ECU pin 4, should take a few seconds after you turn the key to start to off (batt v)
If 67/72 or pin 4 do not show voltage then check the ECCS relay and check if Fuse57 all the way to the relay has continuity(this will show if the wire from the fuse to the relay is shorted or not)
ECM is not getting powered on.
Check ECU pin 24(R), to see if it gets power when the car is in ON and ACC (batt v)
Check ECU pin 80(W), to see if it gets power when the car is OFF (batt v)
ECU pin 67/72, see if it gets power in the ON and ACC position. (batt v)
ECU pin 4, should take a few seconds after you turn the key to start to off (batt v)
If 67/72 or pin 4 do not show voltage then check the ECCS relay and check if Fuse57 all the way to the relay has continuity(this will show if the wire from the fuse to the relay is shorted or not)
Check ECU pin 24(R), to see if it gets power when the car is in ON and ACC (batt v)
Check ECU pin 80(W), to see if it gets power when the car is OFF (batt v)
ECU pin 67/72, see if it gets power in the ON and ACC position. (batt v)
ECU pin 4, should take a few seconds after you turn the key to start to off (batt v)
If 67/72 or pin 4 do not show voltage then check the ECCS relay and check if Fuse57 all the way to the relay has continuity(this will show if the wire from the fuse to the relay is shorted or not)
ECM is not getting powered on.
Check ECU pin 24(R), to see if it gets power when the car is in ON and ACC (batt v)
Check ECU pin 80(W), to see if it gets power when the car is OFF (batt v)
ECU pin 67/72, see if it gets power in the ON and ACC position. (batt v)
ECU pin 4, should take a few seconds after you turn the key to start to off (batt v)
If 67/72 or pin 4 do not show voltage then check the ECCS relay and check if Fuse57 all the way to the relay has continuity(this will show if the wire from the fuse to the relay is shorted or not)
Check ECU pin 24(R), to see if it gets power when the car is in ON and ACC (batt v)
Check ECU pin 80(W), to see if it gets power when the car is OFF (batt v)
ECU pin 67/72, see if it gets power in the ON and ACC position. (batt v)
ECU pin 4, should take a few seconds after you turn the key to start to off (batt v)
If 67/72 or pin 4 do not show voltage then check the ECCS relay and check if Fuse57 all the way to the relay has continuity(this will show if the wire from the fuse to the relay is shorted or not)
What did you mean about pin 4?
The ECCS relay is ok as of yesterday when it operated in place of my fog light relay.
I will check the wire from fuse 57 to the relay.




