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Remote Program help - I'm not dumb I promise

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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 06:29 PM
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Remote Program help - I'm not dumb I promise

I lost my set of keys to my 99 Maxima week before last and have already spent the $170 at the dealer for a replacement transponder key (grrrr). I also lost my only remote, so I ordered a used one off of Ebay. I've followed the instructions for programming the remote to the T and have had zero luck.

I can get the hazards to flash after inserting and withdrawing the key, but I can't get the hazards to flash again after turning the ignition to ACC and pressing a button on the remote. My wife and I have tried at least 40 times already with no luck.

I thought the battery may have been dead in the remote, so I went and bought a new one. Here's the funny thing...when I put the new battery in the remote, my hazards blinked twice and the front windows rolled all the way down. This leads me to believe that there has to be some communication going on between car and remote, but I just don't know why I can't get it to work.

Before I make the call to the dealer to pay someone to do it, can anyone give me some pointers? I also had read somewhere else that there were two different remotes for this generation with FCC ID's ending in different numbers. This one ends in 8, but I honestly don't know if my original one did too. From what I had read though, it seems like a 1999 Maxima should have ended in 8.

Thanks in advance!
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 06:37 PM
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I dont know if this will help you but it took me several times too. I actually had to walk away from it for a while.
I went back and read the instructions afew more times (i know,iknow) and came out and i got it to work. I actually had to slow my self down a little
hope this helps
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 06:40 PM
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Here is ID cODe entry procedure from 1998 FSM maybe it will be of help.

PROCEDURE
Close all doors and lock all doors.
Insert and remove the key from the ignition key cylinder more than six times within
10 seconds. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash.)
Turn ignition key switch to “ACC” position.
Push any button on the new remote controller once. (The hazard warning lamp will
then flash.)
At this time, the new ID code is entered and original (previous) ID codes are
erased.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Nopike
Here is ID cODe entry procedure from 1998 FSM maybe it will be of help.

PROCEDURE
Close all doors and lock all doors.
Insert and remove the key from the ignition key cylinder more than six times within
10 seconds. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash.)
Turn ignition key switch to “ACC” position.
Push any button on the new remote controller once. (The hazard warning lamp will
then flash.)
At this time, the new ID code is entered and original (previous) ID codes are
erased.
Yeah, I'm very familiar with the process. Problem is the hazard warning lamp doesn't flash after turning key to ACC.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 06:45 PM
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Good luck-I hope the FCC# matches, for your sake. They're tricky.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 06:45 PM
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Also found this posted:

Nissan TSB NTB99-036A. In this tsb it does not say that the lights flash when entering program mode (98 and 99 models). says they flash when a remote has been programed.

TSB:For 1998-2000 Maxima, Pathfinder, Sentra, Altima, and Frontier Vehicles 2000 Quest and Xterra Vehicles:

1. Programming Procedure:

A. Get in the vehicle. Close and lock all doors using the driver's power door lock-unlock switch.

B. Insert and remove the ignition key more than 6 times within a 10 second period (at a rate of one insertion/removal cycle per second). The key should be withdrawn from the ignition key cylinder completely each time it is removed.

NOTE : Do not rush the insertion/removal key cycling process.

C. Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position. The ignition key should remain in the "ACC" position throughout the remainder of the programming, including programming of additional remote controllers.

D. Press any button on the remote controller one time.

NOTE : Do not press the button more than one time in the above step. If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful.

The hazard warning lights will flash twice when this step is accurately completed and programming is successful. For 2000 Quest vehicles, the side marker/tail/license lamps will flash twice when programming is successful.

E. If you are programming only one remote, proceed to step 3A. If programming additional remotes, continue with step 2A, below.


2. Programming Additional Remote Controllers (Maximum of 4 Remotes):

A. Remain inside the vehicle after programming the first remote.

B. Use the driver's power door lock-unlock switch to unlock and then lock the doors.

C. Press any button on one of the additional remote controllers one time.

NOTE : Do not press the button more than one time in the above step. If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful.

The hazard warning lights will flash twice when programming is successful. For 2000 Quest vehicles, the side marker/tail/license lamps will flash twice when programming is successful.

If there is more than one additional remote to be programmed, repeat steps 2A through 2C above for each additional remote.


3. End Programming:

A. Remove the key from the ignition.

B. Use the door lock-unlock switch on the driver's door to unlock the doors. Open the driver's door to complete the programming

C. Check the operation of each of the remote controllers by locking/unlocking the doors with each remote controller you have programmed.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 06:53 PM
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Not sure if this matters, but it's only taking about 3 or 4 insertions/withdrawals of the key to get the hazards to flash before turning to ACC. Anyone else experience not having to do it like 6 or 7 times?
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by flatcat19
Good luck-I hope the FCC# matches, for your sake. They're tricky.
Does anyone know of a 4G Maxima that doesn't have a remote with a FCC ID ending in 8?
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by briangtbc

I thought the battery may have been dead in the remote, so I went and bought a new one. Here's the funny thing...when I put the new battery in the remote, my hazards blinked twice and the front windows rolled all the way down. This leads me to believe that there has to be some communication going on between car and remote, but I just don't know why I can't get it to work.
This statement makes it sound to me like the unlock switch of your new remote is stuck on. If you put a new battery in and without pressing any buttons the windows went down the BCM must be getting a continuous unlock signal.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by briangtbc
Not sure if this matters, but it's only taking about 3 or 4 insertions/withdrawals of the key to get the hazards to flash before turning to ACC. Anyone else experience not having to do it like 6 or 7 times?
Could be faulty ignition switch but that is probably OK , it's what is happening after the confirmation signal that is the problem.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ZX9RBART
This statement makes it sound to me like the unlock switch of your new remote is stuck on. If you put a new battery in and without pressing any buttons the windows went down the BCM must be getting a continuous unlock signal.
OK, I think you may be on to something. I went back out and tried popping the battery out and reinserting. While trying to get the cover back on, the battery touched the contacts and then the cover came loose. However, the doors unlocked during the brief period when the battery touched the contacts. I locked the car back up and repeated the process, this time getting the battery fully installed in the remote. This time windows all the way down again. Hmm, may try and disassemble remote and see if I can "unstick" the button. If not, will try and see if Ebay seller will honor his "guaranteed to work" policy and give me a refund.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:48 PM
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The inside components were somewhat dirty/dusty, but a thorough cleaning did not seem to change anything. Doors unlock and windows still go down when reinserting battery.

Argh, will call dealer tomorrow and see if they can help me out before requesting a refund from ebay seller.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by briangtbc
OK, I think you may be on to something. I went back out and tried popping the battery out and reinserting. While trying to get the cover back on, the battery touched the contacts and then the cover came loose. However, the doors unlocked during the brief period when the battery touched the contacts. I locked the car back up and repeated the process, this time getting the battery fully installed in the remote. This time windows all the way down again. Hmm, may try and disassemble remote and see if I can "unstick" the button. If not, will try and see if Ebay seller will honor his "guaranteed to work" policy and give me a refund.
If for nothing more than to prove my theory, remove the unlock button rubber, at its base is the conductor which makes the connection. It may simply be that there is some crud in there or the button is stuck down from the inside. With the unlock button removed you should be able to see if the other functions work. (this is assuming that there is a problem in the contact area of the button and not in the circuit board). It is definitely a fob problem though.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by briangtbc
The inside components were somewhat dirty/dusty, but a thorough cleaning did not seem to change anything. Doors unlock and windows still go down when reinserting battery.

Argh, will call dealer tomorrow and see if they can help me out before requesting a refund from ebay seller.
I would skip the dealer, they will just want to throw parts at it until it works.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ZX9RBART
If for nothing more than to prove my theory, remove the unlock button rubber, at its base is the conductor which makes the connection. It may simply be that there is some crud in there or the button is stuck down from the inside. With the unlock button removed you should be able to see if the other functions work. (this is assuming that there is a problem in the contact area of the button and not in the circuit board). It is definitely a fob problem though.
Yup, removed the unlock button and the car no longer unlocks itself when reinserting battery. I tried programming the remote with button removed, but still no go.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by briangtbc
Yup, removed the unlock button and the car no longer unlocks itself when reinserting battery. I tried programming the remote with button removed, but still no go.
The fact that it is rolling the windows down says that the remote is already programmed, you may have erased that by now though.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by briangtbc
Yup, removed the unlock button and the car no longer unlocks itself when reinserting battery. I tried programming the remote with button removed, but still no go.
In that case I'd definately say the fob is bad. Hopefully the seller will honor the guarantee. I bought one off a .org member. My lights didn't flash at all; but I followed the steps anyway after inserting a couple times and it worked.
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 08:26 PM
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For what it's worth, assuming the old remote that you lost worked just fine it appears the new remote is causing all your problems. I would guess that getting a different, fully functional, remote would solve your problem. So something is probably going on with the new remote.

If dealer can help you it would be to test the sysytem with a known functioning remote unless you happen to know someone with a 4th gen Maxima?
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 08:42 PM
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You are right that's exactly what will happen with a stuck open door button. I removed and reinserted my battery while holding the door open button, as soon as the battery was reinserted doors unlock and windows go dowm down.
Old Aug 23, 2008 | 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by briangtbc
The inside components were somewhat dirty/dusty, but a thorough cleaning did not seem to change anything. Doors unlock and windows still go down when reinserting battery.

Argh, will call dealer tomorrow and see if they can help me out before requesting a refund from ebay seller.
The dealer can't help you, your remote is bad. Contact the ebay seller for a refund or exchange.
Old Jul 16, 2009 | 04:40 PM
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When I bought my '99 SE it came with one key and one remote which didn't work because maybe the battery was dead, so I was told. I just put in a new battery and tried programming my remote per the instructions but I can't get the hazards to flash when I press the remote button. What should I do?
Old Jul 16, 2009 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickywd01
When I bought my '99 SE it came with one key and one remote which didn't work because maybe the battery was dead, so I was told. I just put in a new battery and tried programming my remote per the instructions but I can't get the hazards to flash when I press the remote button. What should I do?
Have you checked to make sure you've got the module for keyless entry?
Old Jul 16, 2009 | 05:33 PM
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I was going to ask that but I ASSumed that if the hazdards flashed after I stuck the key in 6 times it was there.
Old Jul 16, 2009 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Have you checked to make sure you've got the module for keyless entry?
Isn't that this little thing that goes into the A-pillar or whatever pillar that people put those dials on for turbos and such?

When I got my car there was a wire sticking out of the pillar with a little gadget with a antenna sticking out I had no clue what it was so I just unhooked it.

Sorry for the pillar confusion I know that the pillars on the outside windows are call B-pillars and thats about it hahaha
Old Jul 16, 2009 | 05:44 PM
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No that is a microphone for handsfree talking on your cell phone. The keyless module is a metal box that has the circuits which control your doors when you press lock or unlock on your keyless entry remote. I'm currently searching for the location of it. I know it's somewhere up front.
Old Jul 16, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickywd01
No that is a microphone for handsfree talking on your cell phone. The keyless module is a metal box that has the circuits which control your doors when you press lock or unlock on your keyless entry remote. I'm currently searching for the location of it. I know it's somewhere up front.
It's in the trunk.



Originally Posted by Leo_Koneval
Isn't that this little thing that goes into the A-pillar or whatever pillar that people put those dials on for turbos and such?

When I got my car there was a wire sticking out of the pillar with a little gadget with a antenna sticking out I had no clue what it was so I just unhooked it.

Sorry for the pillar confusion I know that the pillars on the outside windows are call B-pillars and thats about it hahaha
Front pillars around the windshield are A pillars, in between the doors are B pillars, around the rear window are C pillars.

Originally Posted by Quickywd01
I was going to ask that but I ASSumed that if the hazdards flashed after I stuck the key in 6 times it was there.
Didn't you just say that the hazards wouldn't flash?
Old Jul 17, 2009 | 08:43 PM
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Oh thankyou, and I didn't know our cars came with hands-free devices especially a 97 GLE. Maybe I should take some pictures of it for some easier explaining haha
Old Jul 17, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Leo_Koneval
Oh thankyou, and I didn't know our cars came with hands-free devices especially a 97 GLE. Maybe I should take some pictures of it for some easier explaining haha
They don't, it's aftermarket.
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