I just installed a starter I got from Dave B on my 2K Max and now it won't start. It turns over fine but won't start. I was goint to try putting the old starter back in (as it wasn't completely bad but just giving me trouble every now and then). When I took the new one out I noticed that a wire that normally runs over the starter (but not connected to the starter) was pinched behind the starter. The insulation was pinched away. I taped the wire back up and put everything back together. It still turns over but won't start!!

I had the battery disconnected while I was doing everything. I checked all the relevant fuses that I could think of. I guess I'm going to put the original starter back in to see if that works.

Anyone have any ideas? Anyone know what that wire is for that goes over top of the starter? I can see that connects to a clip on the side of the engine (not an O2 sensor) but the other end goes behind the engine and I can't see where it goes.

AHHHHHH!!! Supposed to be simple preventive maintenance!!!

 

i installed starter in my friends 2k max and it didnt start turns out the starter we bought new came defected went back to autozone got a new one and installed it and started up on first try... go get another one

 

Since you got it from Dave, bring it by Autzone and have them test it.

 

floor it while starting it it might help

 

Gotta be something else!

 

This might sound to obvious, but you might want to make sure you reassembled everything back together. This is especially so for any harness you might have disconnected to remove any component so you can have easy access to the starter. If you haven't done so, having the starter tested at your local Autozone is a good idea, as suggested by VQP0WER. Please post back with any outcome.

 

I went through an engine swap (455 into a Cutlass) and once it was all installed it wouldn't start. Wouldn't even crank. Next morning I got under the car and found a wire to the starter I forgot to connect. One stupid little wire.

Before yanking the starter, go back through all the wiring to make sure you hooked everything up right. If the starter is turning the engine over, then the problem probably isn't the starter but a missing connection.

 

ok i had the same prob the thing you do is check your engine management fuse #2 if thats blown you cut a wire thats buy the starter.... buy bolting it to the engine and spliced the wire making it a ground

 

Your new starter is fine as it cranks the car. You broke something else replacing it. Take a look at post #8, sounds reasonable - it's blown fuse. Why did it blow - again post #8 .

 

Nobody is wishing it was a blown fuse more than me. But I checked the fuses and they were all fine. I also checked the fusable links under the hood including the main 120A on the + battery lead. I thought I might have blown a fuse since it was pretty obviouse that I shorted a wire when pinched it w/ the install.

I tried to pull a code but my scanner kept giving me a link error so I couldn't even check to see if there was a code (that can't be good).

I punted and had it towed to a dealer (it only cost $12 since I have AAA). I just moved about a month ago so I don't know any dealers in this area. I called a couple and one of them actually tried to help me w/ a little troubleshooting. He even reminded me to use AAA for towing. So I used them. I won't know anything until Monday.

 

you have a wire that is not properly attached...

 

Your ECU doesn't have power, that is why all the trouble. Cranking circuit doesn't need ECU at all so it cranks but doesn't start. Make sure dealer doesn't start replacing half of the car at your expense. I still think it's something very basic.

 

thats what happend to me check that fuse again its next to the bat, its a blue fuse

 

I just got a call back from the dealer. They said it was a fusable link (the guy on the phone couldn't tell me where it was so I'm going to have them show me when I pick it up.) He said it provided power to the control unit and because that lost power for so long, the keys need to be reprogramed. Oh and he also said that I need a starter LOL.

I'm getting out of this one for about $90 so that isn't too bad. Except now I still have to replace my starter! But I should be good at it now since I've had lots of practice.

 

IMHO your keys need not be programmed due to loss of power, they're written in EEPROM which doesn't loose data without power, at least for a life of the car. Think how many of us would go to a dealer on regular basis if it was how your dealer stated.

Why on Earth you have to replace the starter again is also beyound my abilities. Your car was cranking fine, wasn't it? That's all the starter does in its life. If, when you will be picking up the car at the dealer it won't anymore ask them to put your starter back and make it crank again for God's sake.

This is why my cars never seen dealer's bays except for recalls.

 

They don't call them Stealerships for nothing.

 

If you take it to auto zone and have them test it, about all you can say is that it didn't blow any fuses. The starter in my 97 was bad and they insisted on testing it. Their test is a no-load test and if it spins without blowing the circuit breaker, it tests good. My starter spun, made so much noise you had to shout to be heard and auto zone said it was good. I thanked them for their time and went to another store, NAPA.

 

OTOH customer is happy and this is all that matters: he got fuse replaced to the tune of $90 (minus towing), still has his original problem and they made him happy in the end. This is the ART at its best and all I can say - wow.

 

They said it was a fusable link



I TOLD YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Keys are written to the EEPROM??? So they have to rewrite the EEPROM if I get a new key? I'm not sure how that would work.

Either way, I'm still suspicious of the keys needing to be reprogrammed. I'm going to try my other key before they reprogram it.

I'm replacing the starter because it was giving occasional slow starts and occassionally sticking after it started. I figured I was better off replacing it now before it completely went.

Drockb: Yea, Yea, Yea you were right. I'm going to have to get them to show me which fusible link was bad. I checked them 2 or 3 times!! I should have posted a picture!!

 

Car wouldn't start.

Had car towed to dealership.

Car now starts.

I've been screwed by dealerships before, I know how that feels. This didn't feel like that (LOL).

The only person I'm mad at is myself for pinching the stupid wire in the first place. Now I'm a little more mad w/ myself for not being able to find the blown link.

 

And you still want to replace starter? You lost me, sorry. I never heard of new starter to be replaced due to sticking - this is usually sign of necessary clean up, not even replacement for a starter which was there for few years. Slow starts are also not related to starter: if it is cranking for too long it is something else if it just turns slowly it is usually low battery voltage. If it turns slow due to starter it will do so every time and even in that case I would check battery first. Anyway, do whatever you deem right.
Keys are written in EEPROM, you have to bring all your keys for reprogramming as they have to erase all of them first. Looks like they already did this on your car then programmed the only key they had and claimed that ECU "lost its keys" as it is impossible for them to charge you $20 for the blown fuse and keep decency. Overall it will look like it did indeed "lost the keys" as your other keys won't start the car so you have to come with all your keys to get a full service. How come they didn't replace the engine this time?

That's a class isnt'it?

 

In his first post he said he took out the new starter and put the original one back in. I assume he is talking about putting the new one back in now

 

Whatever works for him ... You're probably correct though.

 

I just replaced the starter on my 200o Maxima, and the battery simultaneously, Both were purchaed at the same time two years ago from Auto Zone, both taken back and tested as bad. After installing both ...the new starter and the new battery, the car started up fine. I turned the car off and heard something still running, could not trace where the sound was coming from, now the car will not start. Engine Control FUes #2 keeps blowing out. I don't know what's casing this. Any ideas?

 

Can you go to FSM Quick Reference Index, click on "Fuse Block - Junction Box (J/B)" link and let us know the fuse number from the picture on that page (page 3)? Sounds like electric motor mount but it's hard to tell without knowing car model and exact fuse number. Let us also know how many amps the fuse is for.

 

 

 

It's an old thread, but a new problem for me., and DrockB418 nailed it. This happened to me. Got a bad "World parts" starter from Advance Auto. Took it back and got a new Remy. When putting in the Remy, I unknowingly smooshed the wire and blew the fuse. Then it took me two hours and reading threads on the org before I hit on this. Bingo.

 

So if you pinch or smoosh this "wire", then the fuse blows and car won't start. So I have two questions:

- can someone please identify exactly what and where this wire is that the above posts are referring to?
- why does a fuse blow if the battery has been disconnected prior to changing the starter?

 

I don't know the answer to the first part (which wire) but the second part is easy. I think you are looking for a complex answer on something that is very basic. Yes, the wire was damaged while the battery was disconnected. But then the battery was re-connected with the wire still unknowingly pinched.

 

Yeah I replaced my starter in my 2000 Maxima and crushed three wires in that area. They are red blue and yellow covered in a black sleeving. Starter turned over but wouldn't start the engine. Now I got another problem.

 

Is today grave digger day?