Should i use nissan main and rod bearings, or clevite P-Series. i know the clevite brand, i can swear by it for american muscle but i dont know how it is in import engines.

any thoughts?

Also on courtesy Nissan i am looking at there engine gasket kits and they are confusing me. what are the differences between the 89-90 VG, 91 VG and 92-94 VGs that would warrent different kits?
courtesy engine kit guide

 

Nissan Motorsports offers HD bearing sets maybe Clevite 77, not sure....

 

i bet the All Motor section will have more detailed info on that than the #Gen sections.

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor-61/

 

Clevite bearings are good stuff. That's what most KA and VG people around here use when rebuilding, and it's also what I'm using in my VE.

As for the differences in years on the VG, I don't know. just buy the one that fits your engine's production date and you'll be in good shape.

 

Are there any major differences in the VG Euro cams vs the VG US cams. Euro cams have a longer duration but the same lift. i dont see too much improvement in power with that. maybe for boosted applications.

any thoughts

Also is a windage scrapper worth the money? windage scrapper on ebay

 

The longer durations helps on high end power.

The early model S13 cams (KA24DE engine.. 91-93 240SX) have 248 duration, while the later OBD-II cams only have 232 or something.
With the later cams, the engine falls flat on its face around 5000-5500rpm..
Drop the earlier cams in the later engine and it makes more power at 6500rpm than the OBD-II cams do at 5500rpm.


anyway, a longer duration cam will shift powerband up. you want that on an NA car.

 

Should i get new springs and lifters??

 

up to you and your goals.

 

Biggest goal is just a rebuild. extra power is a bonus. i picked up a set of Vg30 Euro cams, slightly more lift (.392" to our .385") , a little more duration (264/262 vs our 242/242), brand new form Nissan. i will be putting in new springs from nissan, JWT springs are just too expencive.

 

You'll be fine with them then. stock springs are good for up to about a JWT stage I cam, but I wouldn't go past that.

If you're going to raise the rev limiter, watch out. new stock valve springs are better than 15 yr old stuff, but still wouldn't go over 6500 or maybe 7000 with them.

 

what are the best piston rings i can use in the block? does any one have a preference?

the block will be bored out .025.
i will be using new speed pro hypouetectic pistons.

 

Precision, sealed power, perfect circle, whatever. pick a good brand.
speed pro looks to have a few types of rings too.

talk to the place you're buying the pistons from or your engine builder and see what they recommend.

FYI, our engines have really hard cylinder walls, so getting rings to seat is a beyotch. At least form my experience.
I dumped in some VG30DE forged JE pistons and chrome rings- can't remember the brand- and they took like 20,000 miles to seat and stop burning oil. jeeeez.

 

huh. 20k thats alot. did you start off with Synthetic or regular oil? when i redid my vg30et engine years ago i broke it in with valvoline racing oil 15w-30 i think. not 100% sure any more. but i know i went with regular.

did you put the DE pistons in your VE or in a VG30e?

 

Makes me wonder about your builder because that just seems way too high for a break in.

 

It was my VE.
nice compression bump, and lighter forged pistons at that.

Nothing the machinist did has anything to do with the rings. The crosshatching was done per Nissan FSM (45 deg crosshatch and whatnot)..
The big issue is the hardened Chrome-moly rings. They're a beyotch to break in and seat properly.

I used Castrol GTX 5w30 in the car for the first 15,000 miles or so. After that I switched to M1 5-30.
It went from burning a quart of oil every 500 miles to one every 2000 miles after about 20k miles. (that's the main reason I stayed with dino oil so long!)

 

I was referring to the machinist crosshatching the cylinders to match the specified crosshatching for your rings.

 

so did it ever finally stop burning completely? a quart every 2k miles still sounds pretty bad.... tho i guess i'm spoiled by having an engine that doesn't burn any noticeable amount..

 

Caped, forged pistons are known to burn oil when cold due to the looser required tolerances. That's why many OEMs don't use forged pistons.

It burns a quart every 2-3000 miles or so now that it's broken in. Not a huge deal. the stupid ASP pulley w/ leaky front main seal and poor job of fitting the timing cover probably leaked more oil than the pistons burned.


6-LS, It could have broken for several reasons, but the most often one is from tightening accessory belts too tight. puts too much stress on the front few inches of the crank, and it eventually fatigues and breaks just inside the timing gear.

 

i see. so doing alot of long highway trips vs alot of short grocery runs will really affect your oil burning huh? interesting fact tho, never knew that about forged pistons.

 

thats why im stick with hypouetechic pistons, that and forge VG30E pistons are getting rare and cost more than most of my rebuild.

 

does the VE30DE or VG30dett engine use the same rings as the VG30E?

on my search of part number threw courtesynissan, rockauto and a few other part sellers i found they have the same part number. i dont have fact running anymore so i cant triple check.

 

dunno...
My laptop with FAST was stolen a few weeks ago.. can't look it up until I get FAST up and running again.... now where's that backup copy? :grrr:

 

i know i sent you the CDs last time...

 

it's on teh intarweb. something about an overweight P10

 

get with it mang! that site's been down for a while now...

 

it was up last time I checked.

anyhow, look for a torrent of it, there are several out there.
if all else fails, PM me and I'll host it somewhere

 

I have it somewhere... just gotta find it...
I should have a backup copy on my computer upstairs too. it's a matter of finding the time to do it. for as often as I use FAST anymore, it's just not on the priority list...