VG30 Rebuild.
03-02-2009, 10:30 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 475
VG30 Rebuild.
Should i use nissan main and rod bearings, or clevite P-Series. i know the clevite brand, i can swear by it for american muscle but i dont know how it is in import engines.
any thoughts?
Also on courtesy Nissan i am looking at there engine gasket kits and they are confusing me. what are the differences between the 89-90 VG, 91 VG and 92-94 VGs that would warrent different kits?
courtesy engine kit guide
any thoughts?
Also on courtesy Nissan i am looking at there engine gasket kits and they are confusing me. what are the differences between the 89-90 VG, 91 VG and 92-94 VGs that would warrent different kits?
courtesy engine kit guide
Last edited by 300zmax; 03-02-2009 at 12:20 PM.
03-02-2009, 02:32 PM
#3
i bet the All Motor section will have more detailed info on that than the #Gen sections.
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor-61/
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor-61/
03-02-2009, 03:24 PM
#4
Clevite bearings are good stuff. That's what most KA and VG people around here use when rebuilding, and it's also what I'm using in my VE.
As for the differences in years on the VG, I don't know. just buy the one that fits your engine's production date and you'll be in good shape.
As for the differences in years on the VG, I don't know. just buy the one that fits your engine's production date and you'll be in good shape.
03-03-2009, 10:15 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 475
Cams?
Are there any major differences in the VG Euro cams vs the VG US cams. Euro cams have a longer duration but the same lift. i dont see too much improvement in power with that. maybe for boosted applications.
any thoughts
Also is a windage scrapper worth the money? windage scrapper on ebay
any thoughts
Also is a windage scrapper worth the money? windage scrapper on ebay
Last edited by 300zmax; 03-03-2009 at 10:17 AM.
03-03-2009, 01:38 PM
#6
The longer durations helps on high end power.
The early model S13 cams (KA24DE engine.. 91-93 240SX) have 248 duration, while the later OBD-II cams only have 232 or something.
With the later cams, the engine falls flat on its face around 5000-5500rpm..
Drop the earlier cams in the later engine and it makes more power at 6500rpm than the OBD-II cams do at 5500rpm.
anyway, a longer duration cam will shift powerband up. you want that on an NA car.
The early model S13 cams (KA24DE engine.. 91-93 240SX) have 248 duration, while the later OBD-II cams only have 232 or something.
With the later cams, the engine falls flat on its face around 5000-5500rpm..
Drop the earlier cams in the later engine and it makes more power at 6500rpm than the OBD-II cams do at 5500rpm.
anyway, a longer duration cam will shift powerband up. you want that on an NA car.
03-05-2009, 10:12 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 475
Biggest goal is just a rebuild. extra power is a bonus. i picked up a set of Vg30 Euro cams, slightly more lift (.392" to our .385") , a little more duration (264/262 vs our 242/242), brand new form Nissan. i will be putting in new springs from nissan, JWT springs are just too expencive.
03-05-2009, 01:20 PM
#10
You'll be fine with them then. stock springs are good for up to about a JWT stage I cam, but I wouldn't go past that.
If you're going to raise the rev limiter, watch out. new stock valve springs are better than 15 yr old stuff, but still wouldn't go over 6500 or maybe 7000 with them.
If you're going to raise the rev limiter, watch out. new stock valve springs are better than 15 yr old stuff, but still wouldn't go over 6500 or maybe 7000 with them.
03-10-2009, 12:58 PM
#12
Precision, sealed power, perfect circle, whatever. pick a good brand.
speed pro looks to have a few types of rings too.
talk to the place you're buying the pistons from or your engine builder and see what they recommend.
FYI, our engines have really hard cylinder walls, so getting rings to seat is a beyotch. At least form my experience.
I dumped in some VG30DE forged JE pistons and chrome rings- can't remember the brand- and they took like 20,000 miles to seat and stop burning oil. jeeeez.
speed pro looks to have a few types of rings too.
talk to the place you're buying the pistons from or your engine builder and see what they recommend.
FYI, our engines have really hard cylinder walls, so getting rings to seat is a beyotch. At least form my experience.
I dumped in some VG30DE forged JE pistons and chrome rings- can't remember the brand- and they took like 20,000 miles to seat and stop burning oil. jeeeez.
03-10-2009, 01:53 PM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 475
Precision, sealed power, perfect circle, whatever. pick a good brand.
speed pro looks to have a few types of rings too.
talk to the place you're buying the pistons from or your engine builder and see what they recommend.
FYI, our engines have really hard cylinder walls, so getting rings to seat is a beyotch. At least form my experience.
I dumped in some VG30DE forged JE pistons and chrome rings- can't remember the brand- and they took like 20,000 miles to seat and stop burning oil. jeeeez.
speed pro looks to have a few types of rings too.
talk to the place you're buying the pistons from or your engine builder and see what they recommend.
FYI, our engines have really hard cylinder walls, so getting rings to seat is a beyotch. At least form my experience.
I dumped in some VG30DE forged JE pistons and chrome rings- can't remember the brand- and they took like 20,000 miles to seat and stop burning oil. jeeeez.
did you put the DE pistons in your VE or in a VG30e?
Last edited by 300zmax; 03-10-2009 at 03:16 PM.
03-10-2009, 03:09 PM
#14
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Posts: 14
Precision, sealed power, perfect circle, whatever. pick a good brand.
speed pro looks to have a few types of rings too.
talk to the place you're buying the pistons from or your engine builder and see what they recommend.
FYI, our engines have really hard cylinder walls, so getting rings to seat is a beyotch. At least form my experience.
I dumped in some VG30DE forged JE pistons and chrome rings- can't remember the brand- and they took like 20,000 miles to seat and stop burning oil. jeeeez.
speed pro looks to have a few types of rings too.
talk to the place you're buying the pistons from or your engine builder and see what they recommend.
FYI, our engines have really hard cylinder walls, so getting rings to seat is a beyotch. At least form my experience.
I dumped in some VG30DE forged JE pistons and chrome rings- can't remember the brand- and they took like 20,000 miles to seat and stop burning oil. jeeeez.
03-10-2009, 05:02 PM
#15
It was my VE.
nice compression bump, and lighter forged pistons at that.
Nothing the machinist did has anything to do with the rings. The crosshatching was done per Nissan FSM (45 deg crosshatch and whatnot)..
The big issue is the hardened Chrome-moly rings. They're a beyotch to break in and seat properly.
I used Castrol GTX 5w30 in the car for the first 15,000 miles or so. After that I switched to M1 5-30.
It went from burning a quart of oil every 500 miles to one every 2000 miles after about 20k miles. (that's the main reason I stayed with dino oil so long!)
nice compression bump, and lighter forged pistons at that.
Nothing the machinist did has anything to do with the rings. The crosshatching was done per Nissan FSM (45 deg crosshatch and whatnot)..
The big issue is the hardened Chrome-moly rings. They're a beyotch to break in and seat properly.
I used Castrol GTX 5w30 in the car for the first 15,000 miles or so. After that I switched to M1 5-30.
It went from burning a quart of oil every 500 miles to one every 2000 miles after about 20k miles. (that's the main reason I stayed with dino oil so long!)
03-10-2009, 05:20 PM
#16
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Posts: 14
It was my VE.
nice compression bump, and lighter forged pistons at that.
Nothing the machinist did has anything to do with the rings. The crosshatching was done per Nissan FSM (45 deg crosshatch and whatnot)..
The big issue is the hardened Chrome-moly rings. They're a beyotch to break in and seat properly.
I used Castrol GTX 5w30 in the car for the first 15,000 miles or so. After that I switched to M1 5-30.
It went from burning a quart of oil every 500 miles to one every 2000 miles after about 20k miles. (that's the main reason I stayed with dino oil so long!)
nice compression bump, and lighter forged pistons at that.
Nothing the machinist did has anything to do with the rings. The crosshatching was done per Nissan FSM (45 deg crosshatch and whatnot)..
The big issue is the hardened Chrome-moly rings. They're a beyotch to break in and seat properly.
I used Castrol GTX 5w30 in the car for the first 15,000 miles or so. After that I switched to M1 5-30.
It went from burning a quart of oil every 500 miles to one every 2000 miles after about 20k miles. (that's the main reason I stayed with dino oil so long!)
03-10-2009, 05:24 PM
#17
It was my VE.
nice compression bump, and lighter forged pistons at that.
Nothing the machinist did has anything to do with the rings. The crosshatching was done per Nissan FSM (45 deg crosshatch and whatnot)..
The big issue is the hardened Chrome-moly rings. They're a beyotch to break in and seat properly.
I used Castrol GTX 5w30 in the car for the first 15,000 miles or so. After that I switched to M1 5-30.
It went from burning a quart of oil every 500 miles to one every 2000 miles after about 20k miles. (that's the main reason I stayed with dino oil so long!)
nice compression bump, and lighter forged pistons at that.
Nothing the machinist did has anything to do with the rings. The crosshatching was done per Nissan FSM (45 deg crosshatch and whatnot)..
The big issue is the hardened Chrome-moly rings. They're a beyotch to break in and seat properly.
I used Castrol GTX 5w30 in the car for the first 15,000 miles or so. After that I switched to M1 5-30.
It went from burning a quart of oil every 500 miles to one every 2000 miles after about 20k miles. (that's the main reason I stayed with dino oil so long!)
03-10-2009, 09:25 PM
#18
Caped, forged pistons are known to burn oil when cold due to the looser required tolerances. That's why many OEMs don't use forged pistons.
It burns a quart every 2-3000 miles or so now that it's broken in. Not a huge deal. the stupid ASP pulley w/ leaky front main seal and poor job of fitting the timing cover probably leaked more oil than the pistons burned.
6-LS, It could have broken for several reasons, but the most often one is from tightening accessory belts too tight. puts too much stress on the front few inches of the crank, and it eventually fatigues and breaks just inside the timing gear.
It burns a quart every 2-3000 miles or so now that it's broken in. Not a huge deal. the stupid ASP pulley w/ leaky front main seal and poor job of fitting the timing cover probably leaked more oil than the pistons burned.
6-LS, It could have broken for several reasons, but the most often one is from tightening accessory belts too tight. puts too much stress on the front few inches of the crank, and it eventually fatigues and breaks just inside the timing gear.
03-10-2009, 09:40 PM
#19
Caped, forged pistons are known to burn oil when cold due to the looser required tolerances. That's why many OEMs don't use forged pistons.
It burns a quart every 2-3000 miles or so now that it's broken in. Not a huge deal. the stupid ASP pulley w/ leaky front main seal and poor job of fitting the timing cover probably leaked more oil than the pistons burned.
It burns a quart every 2-3000 miles or so now that it's broken in. Not a huge deal. the stupid ASP pulley w/ leaky front main seal and poor job of fitting the timing cover probably leaked more oil than the pistons burned.
03-11-2009, 07:17 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 475
thats why im stick with hypouetechic pistons, that and forge VG30E pistons are getting rare and cost more than most of my rebuild.
03-23-2009, 09:03 AM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 475
Rings? what is the same.
does the VE30DE or VG30dett engine use the same rings as the VG30E?
on my search of part number threw courtesynissan, rockauto and a few other part sellers i found they have the same part number. i dont have fact running anymore so i cant triple check.
on my search of part number threw courtesynissan, rockauto and a few other part sellers i found they have the same part number. i dont have fact running anymore so i cant triple check.
03-23-2009, 09:29 AM
#23
03-23-2009, 03:34 PM
#24
03-23-2009, 07:01 PM
#26
03-23-2009, 08:23 PM
#27
I have it somewhere... just gotta find it...
I should have a backup copy on my computer upstairs too. it's a matter of finding the time to do it. for as often as I use FAST anymore, it's just not on the priority list...
I should have a backup copy on my computer upstairs too. it's a matter of finding the time to do it. for as often as I use FAST anymore, it's just not on the priority list...
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