13.78@104 mph with the 3.5
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
13.78@104 mph with the 3.5
I got in about 12 or 13 runs. I have some winter tires on the car and they suck. 2.30 60 foot.
Best run 13.78 at 104.126 mph. Most runs were 1mid 14's@102-105 mph. Went 14.48 at 105.568 mph spinning badly. Went a bunch of 14.4's at 102-104. Also good 13.93@103.66 mph 2.31 60 foot. And 14.07@102.80 with a 2.53 60 foot. Track was cold. Almost no muscle cars, just a test and tune.
The car obviously has good power to be trapping 105. I removed the pass seat and some other stuff. AC, and the 3.5 is lighter than the 3.0 by 35 pounds.
Going back next weekend for a 13.5 on street tires. Should trap 106.
I also want to mention that I am using the OEM 4th gen clutch. I like it way better than my old 6-puck, much more driveable. I scored a 2004 Alti engine for 700 bucks. Threw it in in my driveway, drilled the stock 3.5 intake cams in a retarded position (welded all 4 dowel pins to the cams for more safety) and removed the butterfly valve in the intake. Im confident it will trap 106
Best run 13.78 at 104.126 mph. Most runs were 1mid 14's@102-105 mph. Went 14.48 at 105.568 mph spinning badly. Went a bunch of 14.4's at 102-104. Also good 13.93@103.66 mph 2.31 60 foot. And 14.07@102.80 with a 2.53 60 foot. Track was cold. Almost no muscle cars, just a test and tune.
The car obviously has good power to be trapping 105. I removed the pass seat and some other stuff. AC, and the 3.5 is lighter than the 3.0 by 35 pounds.
Going back next weekend for a 13.5 on street tires. Should trap 106.
I also want to mention that I am using the OEM 4th gen clutch. I like it way better than my old 6-puck, much more driveable. I scored a 2004 Alti engine for 700 bucks. Threw it in in my driveway, drilled the stock 3.5 intake cams in a retarded position (welded all 4 dowel pins to the cams for more safety) and removed the butterfly valve in the intake. Im confident it will trap 106
Last edited by JClaw; May 6, 2009 at 07:08 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Y-pipe + 2.5" Cattman catback. It's untuned and runs pig rich. Car weights 2840 in street trim - I weight 160. The 5-speed is VLSD and has 130,000 km on it. Engine has 66,000 km.
I have some old avatar pics of the car:
http://www.myimagehosting.com/pic.ph...1XW7PF&i=35877
Those pics are from spring 2006 when I first sold it. The car now has a shaved trunk, Cefiro one-piece headlights and 205/65 winter tires.
I have some old avatar pics of the car:
http://www.myimagehosting.com/pic.ph...1XW7PF&i=35877
Those pics are from spring 2006 when I first sold it. The car now has a shaved trunk, Cefiro one-piece headlights and 205/65 winter tires.
Last edited by JClaw; May 3, 2009 at 05:33 AM.
nice man! definitely has potential there!
so you said the car will trap 106 next time? what will you be doing different to make this happen? just more practice? just curious what things you will tweak as i want to get better myself!
do you plan on SSIM and EU ? should definitely trap 107+ i would think
good luck next week!
so you said the car will trap 106 next time? what will you be doing different to make this happen? just more practice? just curious what things you will tweak as i want to get better myself!
do you plan on SSIM and EU ? should definitely trap 107+ i would think
good luck next week!
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
I am removing another 100 lbs from the car. I still need to buy a GXE master cylinder (no ABS) and an Optima battery.
Last edited by JClaw; Apr 22, 2009 at 05:05 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
I should also mention that all 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. I use 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 25. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
There, I got it out of my system.
Last edited by JClaw; May 3, 2009 at 06:30 PM.
I will have to look at one of mine to be sure but i think it does have all 4. Let me double check today and i can let you know.
I dont plan on tuning it anytime soon. Maybe not even this year. But I will remove more weight because I think it has a 13.5 in it as it sits untuned.
Can you just tell me one thing - does the non-ABS master cylinder have all 4 lines directly plugging into it? The ABS master cylinder only has 2 lines going from the master to the ABS module, then 4 lines come out of the ABS module.
I should also mention that all 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. I mix 91 and 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 3.5. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
There, I got it out of my system.
Can you just tell me one thing - does the non-ABS master cylinder have all 4 lines directly plugging into it? The ABS master cylinder only has 2 lines going from the master to the ABS module, then 4 lines come out of the ABS module.
I should also mention that all 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. I mix 91 and 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 3.5. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
There, I got it out of my system.
I know is said sometime but not wanting the ecu messing with his timing, good info. So is it that the ecu does not provide a good enough ground
I dont plan on tuning it anytime soon. Maybe not even this year. But I will remove more weight because I think it has a 13.5 in it as it sits untuned.
Can you just tell me one thing - does the non-ABS master cylinder have all 4 lines directly plugging into it? The ABS master cylinder only has 2 lines going from the master to the ABS module, then 4 lines come out of the ABS module.
I should also mention that all 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. I mix 91 and 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 3.5. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
There, I got it out of my system.
Can you just tell me one thing - does the non-ABS master cylinder have all 4 lines directly plugging into it? The ABS master cylinder only has 2 lines going from the master to the ABS module, then 4 lines come out of the ABS module.
I should also mention that all 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. I mix 91 and 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 3.5. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
There, I got it out of my system.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
I'm not hitting the track again until 2 weeks from now, few things to take care of...
Last edited by JClaw; Apr 26, 2009 at 11:59 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
I just finished changing the stupid 95 rattle recall tensionner (FU!) and removing power steering cause it was pissing all over the place. I am NOT paying for a PS pump.
Last edited by JClaw; May 6, 2009 at 07:12 AM.
nice traps! I thought the OEM 4th gen clutch wouldn't hold the torque of a modified 3.5 though. Whats your opinion about that? I was afradi to go with a Exedy Stage 1 because I didnt think it would hold.
Last edited by chillin014; May 15, 2009 at 07:41 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Get the 2001 clutch. Maxima 2001 5-speed, Production after November 2000 - straight from the dealer. It's got more surface area and 235 lbs more clamp force. Nissan uses it as stock but it's made by Exedy.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Weighed car March 31st - Stock + Y-pipe & Catback - 3000 lbs flat with a quarter tank
2940 - Removed Spare + 20 lbs of carpeting and junk
2910 - 3.5 weighs about 30 pounds less than the 3.0L
2870 - Removed both bumper supports
2840 - Removed Sway bar & power steering
2835 - Removed rear passenger door window motor and stuff
2794 - Removed both airbags + Cut half of the support beam in the dash
You still need to leave the driver side part of the beam that holds the steering column
2794 lbs - weighted the car at aluminum recycler
Other things I did not do:
2775 lbs - Non-ABS Master cylinder (ABS module weighs 20 lbs)
2740 lbs - Remove passenger seat (35 lbs) TRACK ONLY
2720 lbs - Empty the rest of the rear doors
2693 lbs - 27 lbs Optima battery
At that weight the car still has NO CF ALL STEEL, a heater, FULL INTERIOR, and a functional electric moonroof - love that way too much to touch it.
2940 - Removed Spare + 20 lbs of carpeting and junk
2910 - 3.5 weighs about 30 pounds less than the 3.0L
2870 - Removed both bumper supports
2840 - Removed Sway bar & power steering
2835 - Removed rear passenger door window motor and stuff
2794 - Removed both airbags + Cut half of the support beam in the dash
You still need to leave the driver side part of the beam that holds the steering column
2794 lbs - weighted the car at aluminum recycler
Other things I did not do:
2775 lbs - Non-ABS Master cylinder (ABS module weighs 20 lbs)
2740 lbs - Remove passenger seat (35 lbs) TRACK ONLY
2720 lbs - Empty the rest of the rear doors
2693 lbs - 27 lbs Optima battery
At that weight the car still has NO CF ALL STEEL, a heater, FULL INTERIOR, and a functional electric moonroof - love that way too much to touch it.
Last edited by JClaw; Jun 10, 2009 at 10:31 AM.
Weighed car March 31st - Stock + Y-pipe & Catback - 3000 lbs flat with a quarter tank
2940 - Removed Spare + 20 lbs of carpeting and junk
2910 - 3.5 weighs about 30 pounds less than the 3.0L
2870 - Removed both bumper supports
2840 - Removed Sway bar & power steering
2835 - Removed rear passenger door window motor and stuff
2794 - Removed both airbags + Cut half of the support beam in the dash
You still need to leave the driver side part of the beam that holds the steering column
2794 lbs - weighted the car at aluminum recycler
Other things I did not do:
2775 lbs - Non-ABS Master cylinder (ABS module weighs 20 lbs)
2740 lbs - Remove passenger seat (35 lbs) TRACK ONLY
2720 lbs - Empty the rest of the rear doors
2693 lbs - 27 lbs Optima battery
At that weight the car still has NO CF ALL STEEL, a heater, FULL INTERIOR, and a functional electric moonroof - love that way too much to touch it.
2940 - Removed Spare + 20 lbs of carpeting and junk
2910 - 3.5 weighs about 30 pounds less than the 3.0L
2870 - Removed both bumper supports
2840 - Removed Sway bar & power steering
2835 - Removed rear passenger door window motor and stuff
2794 - Removed both airbags + Cut half of the support beam in the dash
You still need to leave the driver side part of the beam that holds the steering column
2794 lbs - weighted the car at aluminum recycler
Other things I did not do:
2775 lbs - Non-ABS Master cylinder (ABS module weighs 20 lbs)
2740 lbs - Remove passenger seat (35 lbs) TRACK ONLY
2720 lbs - Empty the rest of the rear doors
2693 lbs - 27 lbs Optima battery
At that weight the car still has NO CF ALL STEEL, a heater, FULL INTERIOR, and a functional electric moonroof - love that way too much to touch it.
Hey Stephan
Thinking about coming for the Battle of the Provinces. Just wondering if they have overnight camping for sat night. Long drive to get up early sunday and then race and drive home.
PS I am working on a version of your CAI idea, will show you sunday.
Thinking about coming for the Battle of the Provinces. Just wondering if they have overnight camping for sat night. Long drive to get up early sunday and then race and drive home.
PS I am working on a version of your CAI idea, will show you sunday.
Last edited by Jime; Jul 5, 2009 at 06:41 PM.
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 198
Weighed car March 31st - Stock + Y-pipe & Catback - 3000 lbs flat with a quarter tank
2940 - Removed Spare + 20 lbs of carpeting and junk
2910 - 3.5 weighs about 30 pounds less than the 3.0L
2870 - Removed both bumper supports
2840 - Removed Sway bar & power steering
2835 - Removed rear passenger door window motor and stuff
2794 - Removed both airbags + Cut half of the support beam in the dash
You still need to leave the driver side part of the beam that holds the steering column
2794 lbs - weighted the car at aluminum recycler
Other things I did not do:
2775 lbs - Non-ABS Master cylinder (ABS module weighs 20 lbs)
2740 lbs - Remove passenger seat (35 lbs) TRACK ONLY
2720 lbs - Empty the rest of the rear doors
2693 lbs - 27 lbs Optima battery
At that weight the car still has NO CF ALL STEEL, a heater, FULL INTERIOR, and a functional electric moonroof - love that way too much to touch it.
2940 - Removed Spare + 20 lbs of carpeting and junk
2910 - 3.5 weighs about 30 pounds less than the 3.0L
2870 - Removed both bumper supports
2840 - Removed Sway bar & power steering
2835 - Removed rear passenger door window motor and stuff
2794 - Removed both airbags + Cut half of the support beam in the dash
You still need to leave the driver side part of the beam that holds the steering column
2794 lbs - weighted the car at aluminum recycler
Other things I did not do:
2775 lbs - Non-ABS Master cylinder (ABS module weighs 20 lbs)
2740 lbs - Remove passenger seat (35 lbs) TRACK ONLY
2720 lbs - Empty the rest of the rear doors
2693 lbs - 27 lbs Optima battery
At that weight the car still has NO CF ALL STEEL, a heater, FULL INTERIOR, and a functional electric moonroof - love that way too much to touch it.
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