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Still Craaaannnnkkk Slow Start

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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 04:53 PM
  #1  
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Still Craaaannnnkkk Slow Start

I'm back, again, with the crank slow start issue. I've added grounds to frame and battery but no improvements. Have cleaned the K&N filter and it was no dirtier than the last time (clean it between 10K and 15K miles).

Car has 252K miles, not using oil. Had some oil in coolant and flushed/filled and problem is gone. No wet plugs.

Temperature is irrelevant, though it does seem to start a little quicker after my 30 mile commute to work. The fuel economy isn't suffering badly, still around 25-26 mpg driving 70-75 on interstate.

When it's slow to start I do get a fuel smell when it finally starts and some white smoke after starting (15 seconds or so trying to start).

I've pulled codes and get none.

Really want to sell the Max but don't want to have to apologize when someone looks at it or let them inherit my problem.

Sounds like a big rant, but I wanted to make sure I provided all conditions possible.

Thanks,
Old Jul 21, 2009 | 05:33 PM
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Have you tested the ECTS/checked the harness and the connector?
Old Jul 21, 2009 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by crsdsabers
I'm back, again, with the crank slow start issue. I've added grounds to frame and battery but no improvements. Have cleaned the K&N filter and it was no dirtier than the last time (clean it between 10K and 15K miles).

Had some oil in coolant and flushed/filled and problem is gone.

When it's slow to start I do get a fuel smell when it finally starts and some white smoke after starting (15 seconds or so trying to start).
Why is there coolant in the oil? white smoke usually means blown head gasket... OR transmission fluid is getting into the radiator..

Have you tried cleaning out the starter brushes and com ?

What is the battery voltage?
Old Jul 21, 2009 | 06:33 PM
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Actually, not sure it was oil in the trans, but was very dirty. Flushed, refilled, no problem. Trans wasn't low.

Haven't checked ECTS, will search for test procedures.

Haven't checked battery voltage but it's 12 mos old.

Also, performance isn't affected and it isn't getting hot, or running warmer than normal, at all, so I ruled out, perhaps incorrectly, head gasket.

Will check battery voltage and have starter tested at O' Reilly's since I bought it there w/ lifetime warranty.

Thanks,
Old Jul 21, 2009 | 06:41 PM
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OK, went back through my receipts/records. Changed the ECTS and Fuel Filter 10K miles ago w/ aftermarket ECTS and Wix Fuel Filter.

Will check battery and starter.


Thanks,
Old Jul 21, 2009 | 08:08 PM
  #6  
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also, check the starter signal fuse..

for the longest time, I had issues starting the car( mainly in the morning after resting all night)..
if the car had been started already, it has no problem restarting..

my symptoms was turn the key to start and it would take around 10-15 seconds before the car would start..
also, I got the fuel smell and occasional white smoke as well..

I was sure I had checked the fuse and eventually with the rough starts for over a year ( after adding ground cables, changing the ECTS, ignition switch, etc), I decided to check my fuse panel and saw I was missing the 7.5amp fuse for starter signal..
put in a fuse and problem was solved..

I felt like such a dodo// hahaha

Old Jul 28, 2009 | 09:52 AM
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Now Craaaaannk No Start!

Ok,
After reviewing my receipts I realized that I'd used NGK Copper last time during plug change. Pulled plugs, very dirty, and wet.
So, changed to NGK Platinums, still craaaannnkk no start. Ran the battery down (it was at 12.8 V before cranking marathon).
I'm smelling fuel, so does that rule out fuel pump/filter?
Checked ECTS and harness and it's good.

Not sure what to do next. No codes. Do I take it to dealership and let them diagnose?


Thanks,
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 12:57 PM
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Leaking injector?
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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Fuel pressure good?
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 01:12 PM
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Haha I used to have a bad cranking problem that I kept ignoring until recently when it caused me to become stranded at a local Wal-Mart.

Me and my mechanic narrowed down the list of failing parts, to a:

- Clogged fuel filter
- Failing fuel pump
- Bad alternator
- Corroded battery lines
- And a oil filter that was for some reason bad as well

Good GOD! I had a suspicion for a long time now that my fuel pump might be the cause of the problems but I didn't want to bring bad luck on myself. And so, now its time to face the music hahahah
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 06:39 PM
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Well,
I can't pinpoint where the fuel smell is coming from, so I don't know how to narrow down the injectors. I don't have a fuel pressure guage, either.

Guess I'm SOL and en route to the dealership.


Thanks,
Old Jul 30, 2009 | 09:24 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by crsdsabers
When it's slow to start I do get a fuel smell when it finally starts and some white smoke after starting (15 seconds or so trying to start).

White smoke - coolant or water getting into the cumbustion chamber (exhaust would also smell like burnt antifreeze if using antifreeze in the coolant)
Black Smoke - Excess fuel in combustion chamber
Blue Smoke - oil in the combustion chamber.

Do bother with trouble shooting the slow start condition until you solution the white smoke.
Old Jul 30, 2009 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Thaniel
White smoke - coolant or water getting into the cumbustion chamber (exhaust would also smell like burnt antifreeze if using antifreeze in the coolant)
Black Smoke - Excess fuel in combustion chamber
Blue Smoke - oil in the combustion chamber.

Do bother with trouble shooting the slow start condition until you solution the white smoke.
Unfortunately, I have to fix the slow start/no start problem first, as it won't start at all now. Then I'll attack the white smoke. Exhaust doesn't/didn't smell like antifreeze before.

Thanks,
Old Jul 30, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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was the trans ever removed? My trans was installed and removed like 6 times with 3 different engines and I guess not cleaning the mating surface was my problem. Ran a ground from the battery ground, right next to the battery, to one of the starter bolts. Then ran one ground from the starter bolt to the front engine block ground and from there I ran another ground to the bottom of the trans case. It went from slow and long cranking to instant purr. There's a big thread about it. Its worth another shot and it's damn cheap...
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