Hi guys, I'm going to replace the cv axles on both sides, I did some search both on this forum and youtube, but still have some confusion, please give me some instructions.

I took some pics and but I didn't find the 3 bolts people always talking about( people always say, first take off the 3 bolts, then...) but I didn't find 3 bolts. In the following pics, 4 should be ABS sensor, 6 should be the brake. are the 3 bolts among 1 2 3 5 ?
I'm not very clear about what to remove before I can pull off the axle. can somebody point it out in the pic and tell me what is the order to remove them? and what special tools needed? Your input is highly appreciated!


Pic 1





pic 2

 

none of those need to be removed...
The 3 bolts are only on the passenger side. Once you look at the axle you'll know exactly where they are. The pass. axle is longer so it needs to sit in a support brace. The 3 bolts go through that brace and into the axle ring.

 

It looks that I only put on driver side pictures. But for driver side, what I need to do before pulling out the axles? thanks!

I'm going to upload pictures for pass. side soon

 

if u are trying to change the axle obviously u need to take out the axle nut,, but after that its just take the bolts off that connects the strut to the steering knuckle, u should be able to get the axle out, push down on the caliper to move the control arm and wiggle it out, it might be stuck in there alittle so hit the end with a hammer to make sure it will move. there are no bolts to get it out of the transmission just pry it out, and watch out for falling tranny fluid

 

Thanks! but where are the "the bolts off that connects the strut to the steering knuckle"? Is is in the picture?

 

u see that top bolt that u circled #1? those bolts are the ones. be alittle careful when taking them off that the strut doesnt kickback or anything its never happend to me but u can never be too safe

 

Damm it, computer got some malware, Windows Police Pro, can't open new page, will upload pics for pass side tomorrow

 

Thanks! I was thinking of that part and took some pictures, and trying to confirm with you. But got some malware on computer.

So after taking off the 3 bolts, the whole wheel will fall off the strut(if doesn't, then push down the control arm and control arm will drag the wheel down?). Then just pull the wheel outwards and the shaft will be out of the wheel. Am I correct? Thanks for your patience for a newbie.

 

There are only two bolts connecting each knuckle to the strut. When you remove those bolts, the knuckle will be freed from its top mounting position, and be allowed to curl away from the car. (I hope you already removed the 36mm nut on the axle) Then the axle will have enough room to be removed from the splines on the hub. The drivers side axle has a retention ring that engages in the transmission (at least on the auto). You will have to jerk it pretty hard to remove it from the differential. Then comes the passenger side. I had to remove the bearing carrier from the block to get the passenger axle out. (three bolts) Then a lot of PB Blaster was required to break the rust from between the carrier and the bearing housing after three other bolts were removed which hold the passenger axel support bearing to the carrier. You looked at the FSM, right?

 

Don't do that. You may very well just pull the axle completely apart, then you've got a mess and you still have to properly remove it.

Just get a prybar, don't go yanking on things that aren't meant to be yanked on.

 

FYI
1 is strut bolt, there's another one above it
2 connects the balljoint. I've seen my mechanic remove this to replace my axle - perhaps he was trying to save me the $40 alignment money
3 looks like it connects the tie rod
5 controls how far your wheels can turn (by hitting the control arm when your wheel goes too far)

 

Thanks, That really helps. But for the retention ring on trans , pmohr said a pry bar should be used, I don't know what that things looks like and how it's used.

Yes, I read FSM, but the pictures there are not clear, without details, so.... what do you think about a Haynes Repair manual? do they talk about removing CV axle?

 

I heard that an alignment might be needed after CV axle replacement, but why removing more parts can avoid alignment? Intuitively removing more parts will make it more difficult to get all things back together.

 

I would listen to pmohr and use a pry bar to remove the drivers side inner CV from the tranny. Slow and steady wins the race if you know what I mean. Just put it in between the tranny housing and the CV body and slowly apply preasure. Be careful not to dammage the seals, although you'd have to really stick a pry bar in there haphazardly to do that. Just be careful and you should be fine.

As for the Haynes, I just moved, and can't find mine. Sorry. My overall experience with Haynes tells me you should be fine if you follow that procedure. Check out motorvate.ca also, although it seems to not be working right now.

 

After replacing my driver side with a new axle last month...my passenger side finally gave out. Grease splattered all over my new Illuminas.


This won't be fun. I here the passenger side is a *****.

 

it isn't. Only thing different is the bracket holding it to the engine. The axle might however be rusted to that bracket...

 

He removed the ballbjoint nut to avoid removing the strut nuts.

 

There is a bracket bolted to the engine block. A bearing pressed onto the "intermediate" shaft slips into this bracket and is retained by three 12mm hex head bolts. After removing these three bolts, my shaft easily pulled out.
PM me your email and ill try to send you the chapter from the FSM (Factory Service Manual).

 

Or one could just download their own copy

 

i just did this same thing a week ago, while i was originaly going in there to take off the control arms to put in ES bushings, BOTH of my boots were tore, so i got some cv axles from NAPA and the passenger went in fine, but it was a b***h to bolt in, the driver side unfortunantly did not go in all the way. but i was exhausted and bolted it up anyway.
now that i have time, i wanna redo the driver axle, is there a trick or somethin to get that thing all the way in????

 

As long as you're sure it's splined in properly, pull all of the slack out of the axle then slam it in. Basically make the axle it's own slide hammer.

 

thanks, ill do that tomorrow when i have time, this texas heat is no joke, so hot and humid. it makes me tired only a few hours in to the work

 

I was able to change my passenger axle easily last weekend but the drivers axle wouldn't budge. I tried prying slowly with a screw driver, pulling on it, using a large prybar and no luck. Should I just bring mine to a mechanic? any suggestions for especially tough ones?

 

This^ I put in my new axle by carefully sliding it in until i could not more and pulling it back about 1-2" inches and ramming it in there. I heard the popular "click" noise of the ring snapping in and called it a day.

My car is severely rusted and what I did was get a thick screw driver, about 3/4" that would not dig into the trans housing as i twisted it, and just...twisted it and pryed..carefully though. Once i saw about 3mm of movement between the axle and the tranny, i gave the axle a good yank and it poped out.

Dont be hercules, mine came out and went in easy. Use common sense.

 

but why people just remove the balljoint? hard to remove ?

 

The holes in our struts are not slotted, not even loose for that matter. Removing two strut bolts WILL NOT change the alignment. However, separating the ball joint could (likely) be a MAJOR PITA. Often times the BJ boot gets torn or the BJ itself gets hurt meaning replacement.

 

i just replaced mine and both sides are not difficult, funny thing is, if you go to autozone they have DIY DVD's on how to replace these type of axles and they actually work and replace one on a maxima, can't get better video and step by step how to...