Need to replace a front wheel bearing.

Would love a step by step.

The Motorvate site is down.

Is there another instructional somewhere?

 

The Nissan Service manual will walk you through it, as well as a Haynes or Chilton manual. You ARE going to need to bring the knuckle to a machine shop to have the new bearing pressed in, and you will need an alignment when you are all done.

I think it is also helpful if you have a tie-rod removal tool handy.

 

I bought this, works without removing knuckle from car, and no press needed:
http://www.otctools.com/products/hub_tamer_elite
Paid for itself after one use, since a shop wanted $325 to replace one... I got the tool for about $250 (it may be cheaper now), and the bearing was about $50...

 

motorvate.ca is forwarded to a different website:

http://web.archive.org/web/200708140...ca/mvp.php/704

 

Three easy steps.

1) Remove hub
2) Bring hub and new bearings to a machine shop
3) Re-install hub with new bearings

Enjoy!

 

This is not necessarily directed at you, but I was sure I needed to change out the wheel bearings on one of my Maximas until I swapped the set of tires from one car to the other. I have a 95 and 96. Then the noise went to the other car. Maximas are notorious for transmitting tire noise to the inside of the car.

 

any one in CT is willing to give me a hand with it ? , I need one really bad

 

I just finished this repair this evening... well everything's back together... I still need to torque everything down and reinstall the caliper.

It was way easier to just pull the whole knuckle.

I pulled the knuckle and took the whole thing to a local independent service shop. They pulled the hub from the knuckle and pressed out the old bearing and pressed in the new bearings and seals. Charged me $48.00.

I spent $105.00 on a bearing a seals from Nissan;
$9.00 on 36mm socket;
$10.00 on tie rod fork;
$10.00 on a ball joint fork;
$48.00 at the shop;
$6.00 on tie rod end dust boots;
$4.00 on grease.

If you do it this way be careful with the ball joint fork. I torn the sh*t out of my ball joint boot and had to improvise with a set of tie rod end boots.

BTW... including the time the knuckle was at the shop, this repair took me pretty much the whole day.

It was not hard nor was it especially frustrating... well aside from my snapping a caliper pin... other than that it was fairly straight forward.

 

I think you guys are overcomplicating this, I did this repair today, and I did not use a puller to get that race out of the knuckle. I simple used a seal/race driver, and pounded it out the backside of the knuckle. It was easy. There is nothing to stop you from doing it this way.