Does anyone even use plain old enamel paint anymore? Seems to me that it is much easier to touch-up later (no base coat then clear coat) I want to paint my maxima it has some hail damage and I have tried all the do it yourself ding removal tools to no avail. I had a pro price it and they wanted 300 bucks per panel (hood and roof) trunk is OK, and that would not be bad if the paint was in good shape but it's that funky sage-mist green, and in BAD shape delam of clear, etc. Plus I want more of a regular green (like the dark green on camaros the one that they used with the buckskin color interior) Anyway thoughts on this? (I think that there is a factory green from
Nissan that is close enough to the color I want, and with it being a green I do not plan on painting door jams, under hood etc.
TIA
John

 

Base coat, clear coat is the way to go.
Single stage is still available from some companies.

 

What make that the way to go tho? i understand the benefits as far as looks go, but the after the fact repair issues are much easier.....are they not? I don't know squat about paint (as you can prolly tell) but was curious.
TIA

 

Here's a link to Meguiar's, re paints. basically says that clear coats are harder than enamels. The clear will be damaged before your color coat, until damage is really deep. It is a bit harder to fix, but any paint repair will look 'home-made' unless you're really a 'pro', which I'm not and you don't sound to be.

My car is "Deep Evergreen", like British racing green, only metallic ... a very dark green. I touched up some nicks with Dupli-color, but had a damaged fender repainted at MAACO. Quality depends on the shop, not the brand; My local shop was really good and the fender is 2 years old and looks new. Wish I could have afforded the whole car. Just be sure to get quoted for color and clear if you go this way.
Ed
http://www.meguiars.com/Faq/index.cf...ection=_40#_40