Just did the 6th gen bbk with RTP blanks and PBR Ultimates. The setup looks great, but now I've got a lot more pedal travel before they engage. Is this normal?

pic of new setup:

 

did you bleed the brakes? did you replace teh brake lines?

 

bled the brakes and kept the stock brake lines.

 

i havent done it personally, but just as a peace of mind i was gona do my brake lines as well. maybe the calipers are bad? i duno...did you bleed just the front?

 

You didn't bleed right. Start right rear, left rear, front right and front left. Do it with the car on and do it as any times as it takes to get the pedal firm. If that still leaves you with a soft pedal, you might have a bad caliper.

 

actually its different for our cars..thats the generic bleeding pattern. i read it somewhere, i'd have to find it.

 

Generic?? You start with the one farthest from the master cylinder. I don't care what car you have.

 

i read it on this forum and it was from something about nissan...either way my pedal did get hard after i found that way and did it. if i remember correctly its the right rear, left front, left rear, then right front. sounded stupid, but i did it and received benefits. believe me i did it teh way that you are mentioning because thats the way i was taught as well. but for some reason that way never yielded benefits

 

Make sure you have the calipers on the correct side; i.e. if theyre on upside down (wrong side), no matter how many times you bleed your brakes, you will never get all the air out. As far as correct bleeding order, go from furthest to closest to the brake master cyclinder. RR, LR, FR, FL

 

For future reference, the perfect bleeding sequence is definitely :
RR - LR - FR - FL

 

Does this make sense?

 

++++111111

used to be a brake tech back in the day and that was always the procedure for every car we did when we did a caliper swap.

 

Sounds like you definitely have air.
Bleeding the furthest away is always important and may take many more tries then what you think is necessary.

 

Sorry guys, this is from the 2002 Maxima factory service manual:

 

It's things like this that make me feel uneasy about letting anyone work on my car without me supervising them with the fsm in hand. I may not have a lot of experience working on cars, but when I read something in the fsm and someone does something different to my car I freak out

 

I know that feeling, however I do point out the FSM I have:
Edition JULY 2001, REVISION AUGUST 2002.

Clearly things could be edited, changed or even removed and since the general public cannot reliably obtain this FSM... We’re kind of stuck in a difficult place.

 

Yeah that's the same one I have. I have offered my fsm in the past to people that work on my car but they're not interested. Not once in my life have I ever seen anyone follow proper torque specifications either. I guess in order to get work done the way you want you have to do it yourself. You can't even get that kind of quality with paying someone an outrageous amount of money.

 

I am all for doing things which I feel I can accomplish myself, however there are certain things which are easier to take the car to a shop and demand this part(s) be removed and replaced.

Too many people in automotive repair (as a source of income) have fallen prey to the notion the quicker they perform the job (at the cost of doing it properly) the more money they make.

Oh I'll bet money they would follow directions to the LETTER on their personal vehicle.

 

thank you for confirming what i was trying to say.

 

I would think that the order to bleed them is more related with their location along the master cylinder as opposed to the distance from the cylinder.

The length of the line shouldnt have any impact on which order they should be bled.

 

i did the 6th gen BBK upgrade last year. Like mizike said, make sure the calipers are on the correct side.. with bleeder screws on top. You dont need to bleed the rear unless you loosened the rear bleed screws and then air was let in. if you havent touch the rear bleed screws you dont need to worry about them. To bleed the front s you can do it one of two ways. If you have a helper you have them pres hard on the pedal 3 times and hold it to the floor while you loosen the screw and let the air out. once that side has no more air refill master and go to the driver side and repeat. if you dont have someone you cangravity bleed. thats what i did and my pedal worked fine and felt great.

 

Make sure you attached the brake lines tight and use super blue brake fuild, so you can tell all the old stuff has been replaced.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I was out of town and just checked and sure enough my calipers are on the wrong side with the bleeder screws on the bottom. Gonna try swapping them this weekend.

 

From my 2000 FSM the master cylinder has dual reseviors and a dual proportioning valve. The RR and LF wheels are on one circuit and the LR and RF are on another. This is suppossed to be an additional brake safety feature should one of the fluid circuits break. You will have reduced braking power but braking should still be balanced. That's why the bleed sequence is RR-LF-LR-RF. I think....I'm not a technician.... just a wanna be DIY'er

I replaced both rear calipers, correct sides, right way up, and bled in that sequence but I still have a soft pedal. It gets hard as a rock when you pump it with the engine off. But driving around is scary. I will get a different pedal pumper the next time I bleed them this weekend. My niece was the pumper the first time and I think she was a bit soft on the pedal during the bleed sequence.

 

You are a little off on the sequence and that might confuse some people; the first one is "RR" (Right Rear) not "RL", the rest is fine (just like the graphic posted above for 2002's).
I have a One-man brake bleeder kit that has worked just fine for me on every brake job I've performed.

 

I did that also, but with matt blehms rotors, heres a pic
Looks like you figured it out, awesom

 

Thanks for catching that. I edited it to be correct now. What kind of brake bleeder kit do you have? I bought the mityvac 8500 vacuum kit but did not have any success with it. I couldn't get it to draw any fluid out other than a couple of tear drop size droplets. That's when I gave up on it and resorted to my niece as the peddle pumper.

 

That is how I did mine when I did them.. Feel is like new, works perfect.

 

where is your baffle plate? did you take it off?

 

Its still on there, you cant see it, because my disc's are so freaken huge, ok just big enough you cant see it.

 

This is the type of bleeder I got:
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25036-Blee.../dp/B000CMDP44