Got New 95 Max Few Simple Issues
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 242
From: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
The first issue is that my temp gauge always sets in the middle when it gets to operating temp, I was wondering if something may be wrong.
Seconds issue is the pic I posted was of my transmission fluid.The car has 123.5k miles on it and I'm not sure if I should change it flush it or leave it as is.I have not notice any trans issues.No slipping it goes right into reverse or drive with no delay.It also doesn't spell burnt.
Third issue when I'm driving I can feel wind on my feet.I have to be moving to feel it.It's almost like there is a whole where my feet are.
Fourth issue.I want to replace the fuel filter but there is not alot of room, how do you guys recommend doing it.Any special screw drivers?
Fifth.I jacked the car and the driver side front wheel has a small amount of play when moved from side to side not up and down.The rear passenger side wheel spins freely when jacked up despite the E-brake being on.
Tnx
Augnon
Seconds issue is the pic I posted was of my transmission fluid.The car has 123.5k miles on it and I'm not sure if I should change it flush it or leave it as is.I have not notice any trans issues.No slipping it goes right into reverse or drive with no delay.It also doesn't spell burnt.
Third issue when I'm driving I can feel wind on my feet.I have to be moving to feel it.It's almost like there is a whole where my feet are.
Fourth issue.I want to replace the fuel filter but there is not alot of room, how do you guys recommend doing it.Any special screw drivers?
Fifth.I jacked the car and the driver side front wheel has a small amount of play when moved from side to side not up and down.The rear passenger side wheel spins freely when jacked up despite the E-brake being on.
Tnx
Augnon
Last edited by augnon; Aug 23, 2010 at 01:59 PM.
issue #2 i read somewhere if the car has never been flushed...dont do it... I would just drain and fill...the drive a week then drain and fill the transmission again..that should do it.
issue #3 thats a common maxima thing...i think its how the air is setup..i own 5 4th gens and i noticed it on all of them.
issue #4 just get an oem fuel filter and some pliers with a philips head screw driver..just unscrew and put the new one in..shouldnt be too difficult. remove the intake for more room
issue #3 thats a common maxima thing...i think its how the air is setup..i own 5 4th gens and i noticed it on all of them.
issue #4 just get an oem fuel filter and some pliers with a philips head screw driver..just unscrew and put the new one in..shouldnt be too difficult. remove the intake for more room
Issue #1: That's perfectly normal.
Issue #2: Don't flush it, just drain and fill.
Issue #3: That's perfectly normal as well.
Issue #4: http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=97
Issue #2: Don't flush it, just drain and fill.
Issue #3: That's perfectly normal as well.
Issue #4: http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=97
Seconds issue is the pic I posted was of my transmission fluid.The car has 123.5k miles on it and I'm not sure if I should change it flush it or leave it as is.I have not notice any trans issues.No slipping it goes right into reverse or drive with no delay.It also doesn't spell burnt.
If you can get someone to help you, have them pull down on the inner tie rod while you're shaking the wheel. If the play lessens considerably, then likely an inner. Usually you can peek through the spokes of the wheel and see the outer while you're shaking the wheel, you should be able to tell if that has play in it.
As for the RR wheel spinning with the parking brake on, the first step is to have someone step on the brakes and see if the wheel still turns then. If so, then the caliper is seized up and requires replacement (do yourself a favor and do both sides at once). If the regular brakes stop the wheel then have someone pull the parking brake while you watch the parking brake cables as well as the levers on the calipers, comparing the 'good' side to the bad. It's either going to be needing a caliper or a parking brake cable, though.
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The first issue is that my temp gauge always sets in the middle when it gets to operating temp, I was wondering if something may be wrong.
Seconds issue is the pic I posted was of my transmission fluid.The car has 123.5k miles on it and I'm not sure if I should change it flush it or leave it as is.I have not notice any trans issues.No slipping it goes right into reverse or drive with no delay.It also doesn't spell burnt.
Third issue when I'm driving I can feel wind on my feet.I have to be moving to feel it.It's almost like there is a whole where my feet are.
Fourth issue.I want to replace the fuel filter but there is not alot of room, how do you guys recommend doing it.Any special screw drivers?
Fifth.I jacked the car and the driver side front wheel has a small amount of play when moved from side to side not up and down.The rear passenger side wheel spins freely when jacked up despite the E-brake being on.
Tnx
Augnon
Seconds issue is the pic I posted was of my transmission fluid.The car has 123.5k miles on it and I'm not sure if I should change it flush it or leave it as is.I have not notice any trans issues.No slipping it goes right into reverse or drive with no delay.It also doesn't spell burnt.
Third issue when I'm driving I can feel wind on my feet.I have to be moving to feel it.It's almost like there is a whole where my feet are.
Fourth issue.I want to replace the fuel filter but there is not alot of room, how do you guys recommend doing it.Any special screw drivers?
Fifth.I jacked the car and the driver side front wheel has a small amount of play when moved from side to side not up and down.The rear passenger side wheel spins freely when jacked up despite the E-brake being on.
Tnx
Augnon
2. Transmission fluid should be pink. You should drain/fill. Some people also remove the pan and replace/clean the filter in there too. Search, there are a bunch of how-to's.
3. Probably just the vents.
4. Brute force. There are some how-to's. Basically, pull the filter out of the clamp, pull the tubes off, replace. You have to pull the fuel pump fuse first though. That's all in the how-to you will find.
5. Front wheel play like that could be tie rods. Does the steering wheel move on it's own? There are other signs of bad tie rods too, like sloppy steering/handling.
If the rear wheel spins with the ebrake on, that's no good. Does the other side do that too? Does it spin if you press the brake pedal? If not then it's probably an ebrake cable issue. Otherwise, could be a siezed caliper or stuck guide pins.
Good luck.
Edit: pmohr beat me to it.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 242
From: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
issue #2 i read somewhere if the car has never been flushed...dont do it... I would just drain and fill...the drive a week then drain and fill the transmission again..that should do it.
issue #3 thats a common maxima thing...i think its how the air is setup..i own 5 4th gens and i noticed it on all of them.
issue #4 just get an oem fuel filter and some pliers with a philips head screw driver..just unscrew and put the new one in..shouldnt be too difficult. remove the intake for more room
issue #3 thats a common maxima thing...i think its how the air is setup..i own 5 4th gens and i noticed it on all of them.
issue #4 just get an oem fuel filter and some pliers with a philips head screw driver..just unscrew and put the new one in..shouldnt be too difficult. remove the intake for more room
Why would you? In the middle (or slightly below, as most are) is where it should be.
It just seemed that mine was directly in the middle and on my 3rd gen 95 civic and other cars I've seen/driven there were slightly below the middle.
Drain and fill. Don't worry about a filter change, as the Maxima 4AT just has a mesh screen, no paper filtration media as many other cars do. Or you could take it in for a trans flush, Most machines are 'passive' flushers, in that they use the pressure generated by the trans oil pump instead of pumping it themselves. This is a safe method, the machines that 'back flush' are not (IMO).
I'd be checking the grommets around the harnesses that go through the firewall, as well as the shift cable plate. Look especially for any holes that may have been drilled by a PO for an amp power wire, or something like that. Easiest way might just be to have someone spray the entire area with a hose while you check from inside for leaks.
Remove the intake plumbing up to the throttle body. That frees up some space, and gives you a decent angle of attack. I like to use a right angle ratcheting screwdriver to loosen the clamps, then you just twist the fuel hoses and try to pull them off. More likely than not, they'll be stuck on there; be sure to have a few feet of 5/16" fuel INJECTION hose on hand, as well as some fuel INJECTION hose clamps. Note the bold/caps, as regular fuel hose is designed for carbureted applications, not for the comparatively high pressures of a fuel injection system. For the clamps, they're just better as they don't bite into the hose as regular worm clamps do.
You need to check to see exactly what's moving when the wheel shakes back and forth. Only two likely candidates are the inner and outer tie rods, as both wheel bearing and balljoint play would be noticeable to some degree in both directions.
If you can get someone to help you, have them pull down on the inner tie rod while you're shaking the wheel. If the play lessens considerably, then likely an inner. Usually you can peek through the spokes of the wheel and see the outer while you're shaking the wheel, you should be able to tell if that has play in it.
As for the RR wheel spinning with the parking brake on, the first step is to have someone step on the brakes and see if the wheel still turns then. If so, then the caliper is seized up and requires replacement (do yourself a favor and do both sides at once). If the regular brakes stop the wheel then have someone pull the parking brake while you watch the parking brake cables as well as the levers on the calipers, comparing the 'good' side to the bad. It's either going to be needing a caliper or a parking brake cable, though.
It just seemed that mine was directly in the middle and on my 3rd gen 95 civic and other cars I've seen/driven there were slightly below the middle.
Drain and fill. Don't worry about a filter change, as the Maxima 4AT just has a mesh screen, no paper filtration media as many other cars do. Or you could take it in for a trans flush, Most machines are 'passive' flushers, in that they use the pressure generated by the trans oil pump instead of pumping it themselves. This is a safe method, the machines that 'back flush' are not (IMO).
I'd be checking the grommets around the harnesses that go through the firewall, as well as the shift cable plate. Look especially for any holes that may have been drilled by a PO for an amp power wire, or something like that. Easiest way might just be to have someone spray the entire area with a hose while you check from inside for leaks.
Remove the intake plumbing up to the throttle body. That frees up some space, and gives you a decent angle of attack. I like to use a right angle ratcheting screwdriver to loosen the clamps, then you just twist the fuel hoses and try to pull them off. More likely than not, they'll be stuck on there; be sure to have a few feet of 5/16" fuel INJECTION hose on hand, as well as some fuel INJECTION hose clamps. Note the bold/caps, as regular fuel hose is designed for carbureted applications, not for the comparatively high pressures of a fuel injection system. For the clamps, they're just better as they don't bite into the hose as regular worm clamps do.
You need to check to see exactly what's moving when the wheel shakes back and forth. Only two likely candidates are the inner and outer tie rods, as both wheel bearing and balljoint play would be noticeable to some degree in both directions.
If you can get someone to help you, have them pull down on the inner tie rod while you're shaking the wheel. If the play lessens considerably, then likely an inner. Usually you can peek through the spokes of the wheel and see the outer while you're shaking the wheel, you should be able to tell if that has play in it.
As for the RR wheel spinning with the parking brake on, the first step is to have someone step on the brakes and see if the wheel still turns then. If so, then the caliper is seized up and requires replacement (do yourself a favor and do both sides at once). If the regular brakes stop the wheel then have someone pull the parking brake while you watch the parking brake cables as well as the levers on the calipers, comparing the 'good' side to the bad. It's either going to be needing a caliper or a parking brake cable, though.
I will run your tests.
1. That's normal.
2. Transmission fluid should be pink. You should drain/fill. Some people also remove the pan and replace/clean the filter in there too. Search, there are a bunch of how-to's.
3. Probably just the vents.
4. Brute force. There are some how-to's. Basically, pull the filter out of the clamp, pull the tubes off, replace. You have to pull the fuel pump fuse first though. That's all in the how-to you will find.
5. Front wheel play like that could be tie rods. Does the steering wheel move on it's own? There are other signs of bad tie rods too, like sloppy steering/handling.
If the rear wheel spins with the ebrake on, that's no good. Does the other side do that too? Does it spin if you press the brake pedal? If not then it's probably an ebrake cable issue. Otherwise, could be a siezed caliper or stuck guide pins.
Good luck.
Edit: pmohr beat me to it.
2. Transmission fluid should be pink. You should drain/fill. Some people also remove the pan and replace/clean the filter in there too. Search, there are a bunch of how-to's.
3. Probably just the vents.
4. Brute force. There are some how-to's. Basically, pull the filter out of the clamp, pull the tubes off, replace. You have to pull the fuel pump fuse first though. That's all in the how-to you will find.
5. Front wheel play like that could be tie rods. Does the steering wheel move on it's own? There are other signs of bad tie rods too, like sloppy steering/handling.
If the rear wheel spins with the ebrake on, that's no good. Does the other side do that too? Does it spin if you press the brake pedal? If not then it's probably an ebrake cable issue. Otherwise, could be a siezed caliper or stuck guide pins.
Good luck.
Edit: pmohr beat me to it.
I would say that the handling is sloppy but I was assuming that was because of the rear shocks being ****.The car doesn't not bounce excessive leave in the front nor back but when when going over bumps and making left turns the car sounds almost like the wheels are going to come off.The sounds is very similar to a thud/thump/not really a clunk.If you take a small can of soda MAF/Throttle body cleaner/Roach SPray and rock it back and fourth quickly that is exactly what the car sounds like when making turns on bump roads.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 242
From: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
Issue number six.
The car doesn't not bounce excessively in the front nor back but when when going over bumps and making left turns the car sounds almost like the wheels are going to come off.The sounds is very similar to a thud/thump/not really a clunk.If you take a small can of soda MAF/Throttle body cleaner/Roach SPray and rock it back and fourth quickly that is exactly what the car sounds like when making turns on bump roads.The sound is most pronounced when making right turns.If folks are having trouble imaging the sounds get a car of roach spray and rock it back and fourth.I can make a car of me rocking roach spray back and fourth if needed.
The car doesn't not bounce excessively in the front nor back but when when going over bumps and making left turns the car sounds almost like the wheels are going to come off.The sounds is very similar to a thud/thump/not really a clunk.If you take a small can of soda MAF/Throttle body cleaner/Roach SPray and rock it back and fourth quickly that is exactly what the car sounds like when making turns on bump roads.The sound is most pronounced when making right turns.If folks are having trouble imaging the sounds get a car of roach spray and rock it back and fourth.I can make a car of me rocking roach spray back and fourth if needed.
Last edited by augnon; Aug 24, 2010 at 07:43 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 242
From: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 242
From: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
Well folks I drained and re-filled the trans fluid and it feels like a new car.It is like all the torque is restored.I didn't even know it would make this much difference!Sadly I overfilled it and not I have to go outside and siphon it out.
Tnx folks
Tnx folks
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 242
From: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
I was able to get the fuel filter off and replace it and the expensive of some bruised knuckles and finger tips.Come to find out it was the original from the factory in 1994.
I also solved the air blowing on my feet issue.On the air box there is a bottom rectangular hole, well my fell off some how but I put it back on when I cleaned the TB/changed fuel filter and now the air on my feet is gone!
Tnx Maxima.org
I also solved the air blowing on my feet issue.On the air box there is a bottom rectangular hole, well my fell off some how but I put it back on when I cleaned the TB/changed fuel filter and now the air on my feet is gone!
Tnx Maxima.org
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1
"Drain and fill. Don't worry about a filter change, as the Maxima 4AT just has a mesh screen, no paper filtration media as many other cars do. Or you could take it in for a trans flush, Most machines are 'passive' flushers, in that they use the pressure generated by the trans oil pump instead of pumping it themselves. This is a safe method, the machines that 'back flush' are not (IMO)".
Can this mesh be replaced?
http://www.bwire.com/measure_wire_cloth.htm
Based on these principles of measurement, how fine is the mesh? Is it like a 100 x 100 mesh? Thats what I figured the basic concept would call for, but I am still unsure.
Also, any idea on the alloy of the mesh? Let me know, thanks.
Can this mesh be replaced?
http://www.bwire.com/measure_wire_cloth.htm
Based on these principles of measurement, how fine is the mesh? Is it like a 100 x 100 mesh? Thats what I figured the basic concept would call for, but I am still unsure.
Also, any idea on the alloy of the mesh? Let me know, thanks.
"Drain and fill. Don't worry about a filter change, as the Maxima 4AT just has a mesh screen, no paper filtration media as many other cars do. Or you could take it in for a trans flush, Most machines are 'passive' flushers, in that they use the pressure generated by the trans oil pump instead of pumping it themselves. This is a safe method, the machines that 'back flush' are not (IMO)".
Can this mesh be replaced?
http://www.bwire.com/measure_wire_cloth.htm
Based on these principles of measurement, how fine is the mesh? Is it like a 100 x 100 mesh? Thats what I figured the basic concept would call for, but I am still unsure.
Also, any idea on the alloy of the mesh? Let me know, thanks.
Can this mesh be replaced?
http://www.bwire.com/measure_wire_cloth.htm
Based on these principles of measurement, how fine is the mesh? Is it like a 100 x 100 mesh? Thats what I figured the basic concept would call for, but I am still unsure.
Also, any idea on the alloy of the mesh? Let me know, thanks.
$30 from Nissan, or $17 for a Duralast kit: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...898029_3610_0_
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