Hello again Maxima forums. I'm an Ontario resident. 2001 Anniversary 193K A/T.

Passed ASM2525
HC ppm 58/53
CO% 0.32/0.19
NO ppm 435/311
RPM 1442 VALID
Dilution 15.5 VALID

Curb Idle
HC ppm 150/398
CO% 0.70/9.22
RPM 720 VALID
Dilution 18.8 VALID

I had codes P0171 and P0175, but had a massive hole (watermelon size) in my muffler and replaced with a beautiful axel back magnaflow. Flashed the codes. 150km later, still no check light, so I went and e-tested it. Failed with the above result. In retrospect this was stupid as I should've probably driven it a bit more for the computer to readjust, but I had the day off so I figured it was an opportune time. I'm guessing it's probably the O2 sensor but one bank is too lean and one bank too rich?

SECOND PROBLEM

I hear an awful "grinka" noise whenever my RPM drops below 1000-1200~ after I let off the gas pedal.

I have taken the following short video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_HaHhsURLk

As you can see in the latter half of the video, in neut/park if I rev it, it'll almost always fall below its normal idle rate (of roughly 700, 720 according to e-test) and sometimes it will go as low as 200, or stall altogether. I've read somewhere in the past that faulty idle air control leads to a very costly ecu problem with 5th gens. I'm due for a new air filter that I've forgotten to pick up, but problem was evident before.

Second video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QYLydzfKp0
Please advise.

THIRD PROBLEM

Shifts hard to gear when she's being pushed @ 4500/above. I don't just drop the pedal from full stop obviously, but if I was to, she'd jump off the line and then THUD into gear, painfully. I find it shifts hard whenever it's forced to do so with the pedal pressed past the Automatic O/D spot in the TPS.

Also, when she first starts, before it's warmed up, sometimes it'll slightly chug along, and when I hit the gas it'll sputter, as if there's a huge leak of air flow along the way. Somewhat difficult to explain in writing, you're pressing and it starts to move ahead like it should then suddenly its as if something took the wind out of the car for a second. Never occurs once she's warmed up. Is it my tranny? This chugging problem was worse before I replaced the gaping hole muffler with the axel back magnaflow.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R9U8prQbMs In this video its a hard shift from 2nd to 3rd. I will get one later tonight of a hard one out of first. As far as the usual thuds, this was a medium one.

Thanks again you MF'ers

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfSdyipUP6Q

I hope it doesn't end up like this guys. Says it was his IACV and he had to replace his MAF & ecu.

 

After doing some of my own research I'm hoping the hard shift is due to MAF + possibly a clogged cat and my tranny is fine... opinions?

 

Indeed but had the tranny flushed and therefore new tranny oil, as of I think 150K... so now way it has deteriorated within 43k.

 

I'm having similar problems to your third problem and I have a maf coming on the way so I'll let you know and about the hard shifts I have the same thing due to ****ed up motor mounts. When were yours changed if they ever were because the hard shifts you explained at high rpms are definitely motor mount related but I could be wrong?

 

Wow I was just thinking I know I forgot something.... and as I read this I realized I forgot to edit my post mentioning that I've had one theory that its my motor mounts. Creepy timing. It definitely might be a possibility.

That would be quite a blessing because I imagine it'd be cheaper and less hassle than finding a new tranny.

Can you upload a vid of your shifts? I'm planning on ordering maf tomorrow, where did you order yours?

I got the car @ 123k, it is @ 193k, and I've never changed the mounts, and I highly doubt they ever were.

I'm a lot more concerned about that awful noise as the RPM's drop... faulty IACV = fried ECU = ****.

 

Open the hood and blip the throttle. If the engine has a lot of movement its the mounts. Check the mounts themselves if they are cracked or messed up replace them asap. I think im polyurethaning mine.

 

Ah sorry don't have any videos but if I floor the car at a certain rpm it just sits there like there is a governor plus my safc is only reading 3V at WOT for the maf when its supposed to be around 4.5V. Get maf from daveb its around $83 iirc. About the motor mounts hit up ebay screw that polyurethane crap ebay has all 4 mounts for $110 and they will give you at least half the life of the originals search there is a thread about it by either kukx or mandyfig both used those mounts and have great things to say about them. About the rpm noise try to locate where its coming from it might just be an exhaust leak. Trust me man I've been cursing out my tranny because I thought it was going out until I found this other **** to be my problem. Good way to test mounts is to open hood and have someone switch the gears from park to reverse to drive etc and see how much movement you have.

PS My maf is on the way I really suggest you order one especially if you have no idea when it was last changed because these mafs really suck and are good for going out without throwing a code.

 

http://www.jdmuniverse.com/forums/ho...or-mounts.html

Polyurethane them. They work real well. 3M window weld Did it on my Celica. Takes a few days to cure though.

 

Any ideas as to whats making the awful wheezing noise as well as my etest failure?

Ordered new MAF, IACV, central cat, (leaving precats alone for now), and having TB/EGR cleaned. (Luckily by a friend in his garage...whew)

 

Held off on ordering the new IACV as only the cheap chinese parts are under 200, and direct fit is apparently roughly $400.

 

I changed the maf and all my problems were gone. Every single one, my car shifted perfect, no hard upshifts or downshifts anymore, and it feels like the car gained 100hp. Wow I never new the maf could have caused all these problems. I recommend you change the maf before anything, I was surprised it was like a whole new different car.

 

ill87, the cheap iacv aren't bad. They're exact replica's. They're just a housing and a stepper motor. Not much to go wrong there. I compared the oem to the aftermarket and I couldn't see any difference. You could always try cleaning the MAF while you wait on the new one. local parts stores sell MAF safe cleaners. It worked for mine for a few months then the MAF bit the dust. I could help you pass the E-test in the mean time.